[leknaw]

First I like to say thanks to Jeff and Wacky for starting this up way back then and for the research they conducted. I basically followed their lead. I have re-write the post in order to cover the small details and I hope this is more helpfull.

These are the parts I used:

80 dizzy
3 good igniters
3 MSD blaster coils
red & green wire (18 ga)
30 amps relay, (Radio Shack), Prt Number 275-0226
1 tube Heat sink
1 set Taylor custom wires, and 2ea Taylor repair kits,
(part # 409 Repair Kit 90/180 Boots 45963)
Some old connectors, igniters boots
Electrical repair kit, (plugs, connectors & insulators), wire stripers
1 piece of aluminum about 2.5 x 4 in
1 ground strap
custom brackets

I chose the 80 dizzy because the wires are long enough and it was laying around for another project with MSDs.
After looking at my crowded engine bay, I chose to place the trailing coil by the battery, since is the only place that I have enough room.
I placed both leading coils in the stock position and will make a bracket for the trailing coil.
I made two long (36") leading plug wires with the Taylor repair kit.
Ran the 30 AMPS relay hot wire from a 30 AMPS fuse on my added fuse block. (See pic below)



Ran the switched wire from the blue wire on the plug I found by the brake booster. (Looked it up on the Mazda repair manual and could not come up with anything).

Cut and polished the aluminum plate, traced and drilled the holes for the igniters screws, as well as the holes for the wires going to the dizzy.
Covered the back of the igniters with the heat sink and placed them on the aluminum plate.

Ran the red wires from the negative side of the leading coils to the C blade,
(-) of the leading igniters and the green wires from positive side of the coils to the B blade, (+) of the two leading igniters and then to the dizzy in the following manner.
Red wire (+) from G side on the back of the igniters to the red wire on the dizzy, I used a but connector from the electrical kit and some insulators to prevent the connection from getting wet.
I spliced the two G (+) connections, (red wires together on the back of the igniters plate, and connected them to the leading red wire coming from the dizzy’s magnetic pick up.
Did the same with the S (-) connetions. (green wires)

I used a jumper wire to power up all three coils. This wire runs from the back of the 30 amp relay.
The relay is connected in the following manner:

85 Switched 12 V from plug (red/blue)

12 V out to coils

30 87 12 V in from fuze box (red)

86 Ground (black)

For the trailing coil I ran two wires, red (-) & green (+), in the same manner as the leading as far as the color codes and the negative and positive are concern. Use the same blade connectors to plug into the trailing igniter, which sits on the right side of the plate as you look at it from the front.

After everything was connected I conducted a voltage test. Voltage is only going to be present on both sides, ( - & +) of all three coils and the B & C of the igniters, (were the plugs with boots go on).

I had to crank the car a couple of times and moved the distributor around to get it close to a timing reference. Once it fire up, I had to adjust the fuel/air mixture a bit. After adjusting the timing the car idles nice and easy. I accelerated it several times and it is obvious as to how much quicker it revs up. I will be placing a computer fan on the igniters plate to provide some cooling as they get extremely hot. The fan should provide for a longer life span of the igniters.