disabling coolant level sensor

rx4ur7 · 05-12-2009, 03:13 PM

If you are only getting 3 to 5 mph of air speed through the IC that does not seem that there is a lot of air going across it especially at speed. Sounds like most of your air is going through the engine compartment.

Have you thought of using the fender vents for air extraction? It really helps the street cars here in AZ and the Open Road Car doesn't have any heat issues anymore. It spends its life at 135/145 with bursts up to 165 in Texas and Nevada during some pretty warm runs. Haven't thought of checking it but I imagine that the air speed across both radiator and IC are near the same as vehicle speed.
The open road car is so sensitive to any changes in the engine compartment now that we really have to watch what is removed or added now. In the development of the intake air box I neglected to install a four inch square side panel, which was facing the right side oil cooler. The race before the temps were ~195/195. The race with the missing panel, 215 oil 205, water at 145mph. We figured that there was so much air pressure coming out of the air box that it was neutralizing the air flow through the oil cooler. Only change in car to the next race was replacing the missing panel. Temps were ~195/195 again. The car has been flat bottomed to the end of trans with scavenging for the engine compartment also.

We also enclosed the turbo intakes to use ram air from the radiator opening. Intakes in the engine compartment out here lead to short life detonating motors due to high intake temps. Doesn't matter how big your IC is if you are sucking 250F+ into them. Out here we really need to try to get the intake air at least ambient ideally lower.

Before everyone goes they don't have any problems, trying running where ambient is 115F, 0/2% humidity and the street temp is 168/200F. Engine compartment temp 300 in the FD are not uncommon. I have had to develop and race round motors in these conditions for many years. So most of the work has been to make my client's street cars run reliably and perform under these conditions. You guys with 65F and 65% really shouldn't have any heating problems. If you do, something is wrong somewhere.

The GT3 RX7 that I ran would rarely get over 210 oil and water even when ambient was over 120 which there were a few races at PIR and Firebird that did that. When I ran at Sears Point we had to block off a good portion of the radiator and oil cooler to get the thing to temp. Before we did that it would kind of warm up on the grid but by the time I made it down the front straight to that left to go up the hill the temp gauges were buried, to the cold side, I thought I lost the dash electrics. It was the same with the ITA RX7.

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05-12-2009, 03:13 PM	#21
rx4ur7 Rotary since 1972 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tucson Posts: 231 Rep Power: 17	If you are only getting 3 to 5 mph of air speed through the IC that does not seem that there is a lot of air going across it especially at speed. Sounds like most of your air is going through the engine compartment. Have you thought of using the fender vents for air extraction? It really helps the street cars here in AZ and the Open Road Car doesn't have any heat issues anymore. It spends its life at 135/145 with bursts up to 165 in Texas and Nevada during some pretty warm runs. Haven't thought of checking it but I imagine that the air speed across both radiator and IC are near the same as vehicle speed. The open road car is so sensitive to any changes in the engine compartment now that we really have to watch what is removed or added now. In the development of the intake air box I neglected to install a four inch square side panel, which was facing the right side oil cooler. The race before the temps were ~195/195. The race with the missing panel, 215 oil 205, water at 145mph. We figured that there was so much air pressure coming out of the air box that it was neutralizing the air flow through the oil cooler. Only change in car to the next race was replacing the missing panel. Temps were ~195/195 again. The car has been flat bottomed to the end of trans with scavenging for the engine compartment also. We also enclosed the turbo intakes to use ram air from the radiator opening. Intakes in the engine compartment out here lead to short life detonating motors due to high intake temps. Doesn't matter how big your IC is if you are sucking 250F+ into them. Out here we really need to try to get the intake air at least ambient ideally lower. Before everyone goes they don't have any problems, trying running where ambient is 115F, 0/2% humidity and the street temp is 168/200F. Engine compartment temp 300 in the FD are not uncommon. I have had to develop and race round motors in these conditions for many years. So most of the work has been to make my client's street cars run reliably and perform under these conditions. You guys with 65F and 65% really shouldn't have any heating problems. If you do, something is wrong somewhere. The GT3 RX7 that I ran would rarely get over 210 oil and water even when ambient was over 120 which there were a few races at PIR and Firebird that did that. When I ran at Sears Point we had to block off a good portion of the radiator and oil cooler to get the thing to temp. Before we did that it would kind of warm up on the grid but by the time I made it down the front straight to that left to go up the hill the temp gauges were buried, to the cold side, I thought I lost the dash electrics. It was the same with the ITA RX7.