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Old School Rotary (Pre-1979) Pre-1979 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections |
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Test Whore - Admin
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Right Behind you son
Posts: 4,581
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The second - There is no problem with that at all... in fact I always do it. Every engine that I build where I have the car, I start and run at a highish idle (1100rpms) on the jeckstands for at least an hour. Shut her down, check for leaks and let her cool over night. The next day stat idling... Anyone who knows me understands why I do what I do next - Break in lasts for 1000 miles. For the first 100 miles I don't exceed about 3-3500rpms after that I up the rev limit as follows. 100-200 miles - 4000 rpms 200-300 miles - 4500 rpms 300-400 miles - 5000 rpms 400-500 miles - 5500 rpms then change the oil 500-600 miles - 6000 rpms 600-700 miles - 6500 rpms 700-800 miles - 7000 rpms 800-900 miles - 7500 rpms 900-1000 miles all the way to 8k. After 1000 miles change the oil again and head to the dyno. I stay out of boost as well... or try to... one or two lbs at mid rpms isn't going to hurt anything as long as it's already been tuned. As far as how long it takes to break things in, it depends on what's been replaced and which Apex seals you used... the ones I like take a LONG time to break in. THe most recent engine I built kept gaining vacuum all the way into the 800 mile range. Granted a good deal of it is done in the first few hundred miles but I also over premix while they break-in and use a lot of oil/vasoline during assembly. What's the deal with this engine? What all was replaced? Quote:
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Mine neither, he's HOPING for Friday... bastard is weeks late.... happy I am not.... Did you wake up to snow this morning and leave your neighbor a fresh pile of yellow snow before calling it a nigh.....errrr... morning? Than STFU! That..... Quote:
![]() Ugh.... I've got to do that as well..... 16 quarts of oil, 10 of which are synthetic, 3 filters, and about 2 gals of RedLine tranny fluid.... EFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUU
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