|
RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Sigh.....
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 2,377
Rep Power: 20 ![]() |
I have discovered I have to modify the bottom of the injector also... any tips there? I'm getting some vague/conflicting info on the 7 club.
As a note to anyone else, I use the hacksaw method to cut across the grooves so the plastic was separated and would spin freely and then used a soldering iron to melt a notch in each side of the plastic so it just fell off.
__________________
1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
RCC Addict
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
Posts: 1,813
Rep Power: 19 ![]() |
Most of those Bosch units run a plastic cap at the tip.
I will remove them and leave them off. To seal the tip of the unit to the engine, I cut a length of 10mm (I.D.) silicone hose. You can use a section of 3/8" (I think that's the SAE equivalent to 10mm?) heater hose if 10mm vacuum hose isn't easily available. No need to worry about protecting the tip, since they are all protected in our engines. -Ted |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|