De-Powering the power steering rack

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Now it's time for some welding. The control valve assembly will disengage & rotate slightly to allow fluid to flow. This of course translate to the steering wheel as a few degrees (I've been told ~5*) of pure SLOP. Meaning that you have to rotate the steering wheel 5* for the quill to open and get to it's mechanical limit before the rack will begin to move in or out. I hate slop in racks as much as I hate seals. Time to fix. This pic shows where the break is







So lets weld it up. Even if the weld breaks which I don't think it will, the piece itself will just revert back to its original design. A little ole' MIG welding and viola. Some people will say to TIG it but I don't think it's necessary.






Since I had the MIG out and some copper piping laying around I decided to cut off the connections & plug the holes on the rack since they won't be used again. I know, I'm an OCD ass and this step is totally optional but I kinda like it. PLUS I was planning on painting the damn thing anyway. Either way, you need to plug the lines so that dirt and debris can't get in, and your grease can't get out.







This may be overboard.... nah.... but I can't use the, "Since I had the MIG out excuse," I'll just admit to going overboard, I busted out the TIG and welded up the other holes on the rack,






than sanded everything smooth and painted.


xxx




Leave me alone, I'm OCD and I don't have a problem

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So, remember this picture? Now it's time to go after the main seal.







I took the cut off wheel and cut in two places 180* opposite each other and whacked it with a hammer.

DONE

That was main thing to be done.... Yes, that is the big difference between my dfe-powered racks and looping the lines, or plugging them. That seal makes all the difference in the world.

Now with everything ready to be re-assembled, lets look at a few things. On the rack bushing (bottom left 2 blue circles) there are two seals. The one o-ring seal that is visible and an oil seal that is not. Since we are no longer trying to contain all the pressure of a power steering system and only trying to keep some grease in the rack, I took that seal out and removed the spring to allow the rack to slide easier.*

The O-ring you should leave as it will keep the bushing in place. When re-assembling it though, be sure to press the Rack stopper in VERY hard as the end of the rack has two steps and the o-ring needs to compress.

The center blue circles show the other oil seal and the bushing. Same as above I popped the seal out and removed the spring relieveing some of the friction.* The circle on the rack shows where those two seals are located. I used a socket and a bunch of extensions to seal it in place. Worked aight

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Lube up your shaft real well

XXX



Grease up the quill

XXX



Meh, maybe a little much






Put the keeper in place





& after that my hands got REALLY greasy and decided not to touch the camera again. The rest is really the reverse of removal, check the FSM for torque specs and so on.... and enjoy.

-Brian