Diary of a Madman; TitaniumTT's see you @ DGRRXI RE-REbuild

***TitaniumTT*** · 01-31-2014, 01:35 AM

Got the new TiAL installed tonight.... what a motherfucker of a PITA it was.

Basically where I had the greedy was too far back for the TiAL as it stands more proud than the old one. So what I had to do was cut the old greedy flange off. Then file down all the welding. Grind into what was left of the greedy flange to cut through the weld that penetrated, and then beat it out with a punch.

Ironically the hole that I needed for the TiAL flange was the exact same OD as the old greedy BOV. The difference is the greedy flange was .25" cast AL and the TiAL a .063ish billet. So yes Mike, the TiAL will flow METRIC ASSTONS more than the greedy

Had the TiAL been .25" shorter it would've worked and I could've just welded it all up. Instead what I had to do was grind the hole in the elbow into an egg shape so that I could position the new flange as far forward as possible. What this did obviously was leave a gaping hole aft of the new flange. So... I had to lay 5 or 6 beads around the back of the hole, and then file them down to close the gap.... what an ordeal... but that's one more thing off the list.

Tolerances are TIGHT and I hope to hell the engine doesn't rock all that much. If it does, which it shouldn't because of how I mounted the trans and the torque brace I have on the UIM, I'll have to rebuild the elbow.... oh well... it started life as one of the Greedy ones for an FD... obviously this one has been just ever so slightly modified

Seeing as how I haven't even turned on my welder since June... I can live with these welds

See what I mean... that's about as far forward as I could get it. Because of the angle of the elbow and the angle of the brace... it take a lot of forward movement to get the BOV just a little bit farther away from the brace.... Oh well.

If you look towards the back you can see where I had to weld up the gap

TIGHT!!!!!

Braided line because vac line is for pussies

***TitaniumTT*** · 01-31-2014, 01:41 AM

Hey John.... as I promised.... a pic of my "LimeRock Pipe"

It is possible to reroute dual WG's with a 4" exhaust... but it's not fun.. it's even worse to install it. Because of the motor mounts in an FC. The manifold with WG's and turbo and Downpipe need to be installed all as one... not a pleasant experience at all. I don't even want to think about how it's going to be accomplished with the water cooled wastegates. Getting to a few of those fittings is going to be a nightmare....

And here is a pic for John regarding the MAP sensor mount.....
GM whateverBar MAP sensor fits ontop. The nipple is sealed by an o-ring and the cavity continues to an 1/8" NPT port where you can put your choice of fitting on. The MAP sensor bolts to the top of the mount, and the mount bolts to wherever you want it to. I love this little thing. It's a great idea.... much better than hc's idea to smear some fucking RTV inside the reference line and toss a ziptie on it... then wonder why his car won't start or stay running...

RXtacy · 01-31-2014, 09:12 AM

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Originally Posted by JhnRX7

I guess my last post was not entirely true... I am running a short run, 10"-12" (or so), of soft line between block and firewall for vibration/flex.

Mr. Ambrosio (RENESISFD) is coming over this weekend to lend his expertise and hopefully help minimize the amount of trashed lines... Hardline Party!

Ah gotcha now I'm on board

Have fun at your tube party

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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I'm so jealous.... have you ever? I really want to meet that Adrienne chick

You'd prob be disappointed. Everytime I talk to a chick on the phone who sounds cute they are always the antithesis

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Nice.... how are you mounting the hardlines? I've got a machining project going on that you may be interested in... shoot me a txt if ya wanna know

If it's what I think it is we need to talk. I think you might be wasting your time.

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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Ironically the hole that I needed for the TiAL flange was the exact same OD as the old greedy BOV. The difference is the greedy flange was .25" cast AL and the TiAL a .063ish billet. So yes Mike, the TiAL will flow METRIC ASSTONS more than the greedy

My point was do you need the extra flow

Have you had compressor surge?

Also who taught you how to use the camera on your phone?

***TitaniumTT*** · 01-31-2014, 10:45 AM

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Originally Posted by RETed

I think the guy was talking about the radiant temps of the engine - rear versus front.

-Ted

Ah..... yes I can see the radiant heat back there effecting temps in the engine itself...

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Originally Posted by JhnRX7

I have gone to pick up parts, its just over the state line... and I have met her

Oh Really? And is she

or the antithesis as Mike says? (And.... I too have experienced

)

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Originally Posted by JhnRX7

To be determined.

Ah..... Ok... well... if you're interested in what I've got going on, shoot me a txt or the pics will be up in here in a few weeks..

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Originally Posted by JhnRX7

Saw the pictures... this is a great idea, and perfect timing. I was just looking into one of those SS pressure transducers that I can use as a map sensor because they are 1/8" NPT. Unfortunately I could only find one in 3.5 BAR and I don't plan on running anywhere near that boost so I don't want to use it due to the loss in resolution. This however is the perfect solution to be able to use a GM 3 Bar. Only downside is I wanted to mount the transducer directly to the manifold. However I could probably still mount this adapter block to the UIM somewhere then run a hardline (seeing as I wont have to worry about flex).

Kewl. I do love that adapter. The only thing that I would suggest is that I try to keep transducers off the engine. Keep them away from the vibrations and they tend to last longer. Of course, GM themselves have mounted their MAP sensors directly on the engine in the past soooooo yeah.

Alright, when I get them, I'll give you a shout

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Originally Posted by JhnRX7

Yup! he is bringing all his fancy hardline tools. What flaring tool have you been using? I was looking into this Ridgid tool (the MasterCool is too rich for my blood) for finishing up everything after John leaves
http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-41162-M...d_sim_sbs_hi_1

I borrowed Colins MasterCool with the 37* flare kit as well. Oddly enough the week after I borrowed it, Kyle bought a rebranded one from Snap-On for literally a 40% increase.... needless to say he was more than annoyed. He owns it though and will be using it a lot.

Honestly, I've tried a lot of the manual flaring tools in the past, and none have worked as well and consistently and EASILT as the MasterCool. Most of the hand crank ones would either break on me, or not give a full flare. This was of course while flaring Stainless steel. Regular steel and AL you can get away with it, but if I'm going through the trouble of building a hardline, it's going to be out of stainless. My suggestion would be to borrow one until you're done with it. Next time I need a flaring tool, I do plan on just buying one. It really is worth it considering the amount of times I've wanted to do hardlines and just ended up either using a soft line or the adapters like this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ea...6erl/overview/
which a RETURN line ended up leaking on me... go figure.... If I have the time I'm seriously thinking about redoing my fuel lines with a 37* flare and a male adapter on the softline like this guy

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