Diary of a Madman; TitaniumTT's see you @ DGRRXI RE-REbuild

[RXtacy]

Originally Posted by JhnRX7

I guess my last post was not entirely true... I am running a short run, 10"-12" (or so), of soft line between block and firewall for vibration/flex.

Mr. Ambrosio (RENESISFD) is coming over this weekend to lend his expertise and hopefully help minimize the amount of trashed lines... Hardline Party!

Ah gotcha now I'm on board

Have fun at your tube party

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I'm so jealous.... have you ever? I really want to meet that Adrienne chick

You'd prob be disappointed. Everytime I talk to a chick on the phone who sounds cute they are always the antithesis

Nice.... how are you mounting the hardlines? I've got a machining project going on that you may be interested in... shoot me a txt if ya wanna know

If it's what I think it is we need to talk. I think you might be wasting your time.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Ironically the hole that I needed for the TiAL flange was the exact same OD as the old greedy BOV. The difference is the greedy flange was .25" cast AL and the TiAL a .063ish billet. So yes Mike, the TiAL will flow METRIC ASSTONS more than the greedy

My point was do you need the extra flow Have you had compressor surge?

Also who taught you how to use the camera on your phone?

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by RETed

I think the guy was talking about the radiant temps of the engine - rear versus front.


-Ted

Ah..... yes I can see the radiant heat back there effecting temps in the engine itself...

Originally Posted by JhnRX7

I have gone to pick up parts, its just over the state line... and I have met her

Oh Really? And is she or the antithesis as Mike says? (And.... I too have experienced )

Originally Posted by JhnRX7

To be determined.

Ah..... Ok... well... if you're interested in what I've got going on, shoot me a txt or the pics will be up in here in a few weeks..

Originally Posted by JhnRX7

Saw the pictures... this is a great idea, and perfect timing. I was just looking into one of those SS pressure transducers that I can use as a map sensor because they are 1/8" NPT. Unfortunately I could only find one in 3.5 BAR and I don't plan on running anywhere near that boost so I don't want to use it due to the loss in resolution. This however is the perfect solution to be able to use a GM 3 Bar. Only downside is I wanted to mount the transducer directly to the manifold. However I could probably still mount this adapter block to the UIM somewhere then run a hardline (seeing as I wont have to worry about flex).

Kewl. I do love that adapter. The only thing that I would suggest is that I try to keep transducers off the engine. Keep them away from the vibrations and they tend to last longer. Of course, GM themselves have mounted their MAP sensors directly on the engine in the past soooooo yeah.

Alright, when I get them, I'll give you a shout

Originally Posted by JhnRX7

Yup! he is bringing all his fancy hardline tools. What flaring tool have you been using? I was looking into this Ridgid tool (the MasterCool is too rich for my blood) for finishing up everything after John leaves
http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-41162-M...d_sim_sbs_hi_1

I borrowed Colins MasterCool with the 37* flare kit as well. Oddly enough the week after I borrowed it, Kyle bought a rebranded one from Snap-On for literally a 40% increase.... needless to say he was more than annoyed. He owns it though and will be using it a lot.

Honestly, I've tried a lot of the manual flaring tools in the past, and none have worked as well and consistently and EASILT as the MasterCool. Most of the hand crank ones would either break on me, or not give a full flare. This was of course while flaring Stainless steel. Regular steel and AL you can get away with it, but if I'm going through the trouble of building a hardline, it's going to be out of stainless. My suggestion would be to borrow one until you're done with it. Next time I need a flaring tool, I do plan on just buying one. It really is worth it considering the amount of times I've wanted to do hardlines and just ended up either using a soft line or the adapters like this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ea...6erl/overview/
which a RETURN line ended up leaking on me... go figure.... If I have the time I'm seriously thinking about redoing my fuel lines with a 37* flare and a male adapter on the softline like this guy

Originally Posted by RXtacy

Ah gotcha now I'm on board

Have fun at your tube party

:rofl; That....

Originally Posted by RXtacy

You'd prob be disappointed. Everytime I talk to a chick on the phone who sounds cute they are always the antithesis

There's always hope.....

Originally Posted by RXtacy

If it's what I think it is we need to talk. I think you might be wasting your time.

Oh really.... I'll shoot you a txt in a few minutes....

Originally Posted by RXtacy

My point was do you need the extra flow Have you had compressor surge?

I have not... yet.... but I've hear the BOV crack when it shouldn't have which was one reason for swapping it out.

Originally Posted by RXtacy

Also who taught you how to use the camera on your phone?

I actually almost ended up using my phone. Last time I was at horror freight they had a sale on batteries... so I picked up a bundle of AAA and AA batteries. My camera died, so I threw in 4 BRAND NEW HORROR FREIGHT batteries and the camera would take a picture, and then turn off without taking a picture. WTF? Try it again... motherfucker.... So I put it down and carried on. NOT taking pictures of the steps to make the TiAL fit. On a hunch... I pulled two of the batteries out of the garbage and replaced two of the horror freight batteries with the dead Duracell and OMFG the camera worked. So in short.... dead Duracels are better than brand new horror freight batteries. And I always thought my penlights died so quick because I was leaving them on in my pocket

[JhnRX7]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Kewl. I do love that adapter. The only thing that I would suggest is that I try to keep transducers off the engine. Keep them away from the vibrations and they tend to last longer. Of course, GM themselves have mounted their MAP sensors directly on the engine in the past soooooo yeah.

I had this concern as well. However like you mentioned, there are a bunch of OEM's that mount the map sensor directly to the intake manifold. Additionally I have had my fuel pressure sensor mounted on the motor (indirectly) without issue as well as oil pressure sensor.

That said, a failed fuel/oil pressure sensor is a lot less catastrophic than a failed MAP sensor

For this reason I will mount the MAP sensor to the fire wall... I have just been bitten by the hard line bug and have been looking for ways to eliminate rubber/silicone hose wherever possible