MG Midget Madness (i.e. It was either this or kill it with fire)

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Looking forward to seeing this little car, this thing should be a hoot to drive!

I'm thinking it should be Zach. I always thought the rotary and the lightweight Midget body would be the perfect match. Pushing hard to have this one at DGRR. My track record for getting a car there is less than admirable though.

[almoststockfc]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Pushing hard to have this one at DGRR. My track record for getting a car there is less than admirable though.

lol ditto

[djmtsu]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Pushing hard to have this one at DGRR. My track record for getting a car there is less than admirable though.

Originally Posted by almoststockfc

lol ditto

ditto......

[FC Zach]

Originally Posted by djmtsu

ditto......

[GySgtFrank]

OK. Since nobody can identify whether my injectors are high or low impedence by sight, I will need to go digging to find out again.

I wish I would write these things down.


So, my exhaust parts showed up today.

exhaust parts by Kevin Frank, on Flickr


2 - 48" long straight pieces of 2"OD .120 wall tubing (The extra shorter piece is what I have left from my earlier adventures)

3 - 48" long pieces of perforated 409 SS tube (The ones in the cardboard tubes. I probably got more than I am going to need for this project, but they weren't that expensive.)

5 - 3" radius 180 degree mandrel bends (same tube as the straight pieces)

2 - 4" radius 180 degree mandrel bends (again, same tube as the straight pieces)

4 - SS Racing beat road race flanges

4 - Mild steel Racing beat road race flanges

5 - Exhaust gaskets for above flanges

The only pieces that I should need to complete the exhaust system now should be SS wool for muffler packing, more hangers, aluminum sheet for heat shielding, and SS sheet to make the muffler cases. I am not too sure that I want to total up what the exhaust system for this thing is going to end up costing. :shudders:

[RETed]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

OK. Since nobody can identify whether my injectors are high or low impedence by sight, I will need to go digging to find out again.

Your *fuel injectors* are low-impedence.

I dunno about those clips though...
The offset key is a late-87 or 1988 model harness.
I'm not an NA guy, but the offset key on a turbo FC means high-impedence.

Finding those rectangle, off-set key fuel injectors might not be easy...
If not, just clip them and use "Bosch" plugs to fit those low-impedence fuel injectors and just add a ballast resistor in the circuit.


-Ted

[djmtsu]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

OK. Since nobody can identify whether my injectors are high or low impedence by sight, I will need to go digging to find out again.

Soooooooo.......you don't know how to work a multimeter?

That's OK, because you can weld

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by djmtsu

Soooooooo.......you don't know how to work a multimeter?

That's OK, because you can weld

Multimeter assumes that you have functional wiring which I seem to be somewhat short of, besides I'm a lazy old fart.

[RXtacy]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Multimeter assumes that you have functional wiring which I seem to be somewhat short of, besides I'm a lazy old fart.

You would be taking the impedance across the injector, so "functional" wiring would be of no consequence.

I would assume low is in the 2-3 Ohm range w/ high being ~12.

[RXtacy]

Looking forward to seeing how this comes out.

[GySgtFrank]

Thanks Mike and Ted. I figured somebody would have the answer. It is going to be a while until I get to the injectors and wiring, now that I have the money for parts. I need to get the exhaust and cooling system done before I can move on to pulling the engine again. It needs to come back out so I can get the finish welding done and wire it up.

[GySgtFrank]

You are determined to get me side tracked aren't you?

My neighbor/landlord used my multimeter to test a 200amp line going to the house. The leads didn't survive and the meter seems to have lost it's mind. I guess I really need to buy a good quality multimeter again one of these days. Any suggestions on a good one? I've had enough of the cheapies that work a time or two and then you have to throw them away.

Right now I'm trying to get my pipe bender stand fixed. Welding the crappy casters that I replaced on my wheel dollies to the stand so I can move the heavy bastage. I need it out where I can work on my perforated tubing.

[JL1RX7]

Gunny - Fluke if you have a big budget. They are worth it. But hot damn do they cost an arm and a kidney. The one I use for work lists around 800. You should be able to find a decent one in the 150 to 200 range.

[hades]

Good luck old man.

[RETed]

As much as I love my Flukes too...
I almost never use them cause I ph33r damaging them. :P

I use my Craftsman unit a LOT.
$10 when Sears does their 50% off sales...
Cheap ass, and I don't give a shit if I throw it around.


-Ted