De-Powering the power steering rack

[infernosg]

Sorry to bump this (and reply to a sticky) again, but since the pictures depicting the process of removing the seals from the "quill" are among the few to not be reposted is there any way to get a more detailed description of the process? I've got my steering rack completely disassembled and am at this process now.

[Whizbang]

trying to do this and i got the stopper metal piece out but the stopper itself will not come out. just spins, but no way it wants to come out... wtf bbq?

[Whizbang]

turns out a piece of that wire broke off inside there (maybe 2mm worth) had to switch to the next rack i had laying around.... lame!

[theorie]

Here is another tutorial in PDF format with all of the photos:

http://www.mediafire.com/view/l4lymb..._Rack_FD3S.pdf

I made that way back when I wanted to make sure I would have this tutorial when I was ready to do this myself.

---edit---

I de-powered my rack yesterday. Here are a few pics (CLICK picture for large size):







New tie-rod ends from J-Auto.net:











All back together (still waiting on the boots to come from J-Auto.net though:

[JustJeff]

Maybe this was answered and I missed it, but the fittings that were removed. I assume they are just cut off and the holes welded shut? I'm having a hard time getting the hardlines out at those points and would really like to simply cut them off, or break the off. Breaking them off probably would make me feel better, but also probably isn't the best course of action.



Also how do I get the outer tie rods to break free? Put a wrench on both the locking nut and tie rod and turn them opposite directions? I tried this after soaking them in PB Blaster with no luck. I was going to heat then up, but I was out of gas for my little torch.

[infernosg]

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Maybe this was answered and I missed it, but the fittings that were removed. I assume they are just cut off and the holes welded shut? I'm having a hard time getting the hardlines out at those points and would really like to simply cut them off, or break the off. Breaking them off probably would make me feel better, but also probably isn't the best course of action.

Yep, cut, weld, smooth, and paint!

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Also how do I get the outer tie rods to break free? Put a wrench on both the locking nut and tie rod and turn them opposite directions? I tried this after soaking them in PB Blaster with no luck. I was going to heat then up, but I was out of gas for my little torch.

This is what I did but I didn't have any difficulty. I also used a very large wrench so I was able to apply a lot of torque to the tie rod. I also didn't have any issues with damaged threads as mentioned in the original post.

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by infernosg

Yep, cut, weld, smooth, and paint!



This is what I did but I didn't have any difficulty. I also used a very large wrench so I was able to apply a lot of torque to the tie rod. I also didn't have any issues with damaged threads as mentioned in the original post.

The purpose of the lock nut is simply to hold the tie rod in place so that it doesn't walk its way in towards the car, correct? What I really need to focus on is breaking the tie rod free correct?

If that's the case, I may borrow a big pipe from work and put it over my vice grips. Do it similar to flywheel nut...though, hopefully having to use less torque :P

[theorie]

^ Cut them off. I cut them off on a band saw in a matter of seconds, then welded the holes.

[Whizbang]

^^ that's what i did. Cut, welded, grind smooth

[Whizbang]

tie rods were easy for me. I had a hard time with the damn giant size locing ring for the pinion though. Mostly because i had to go and buy a silly huge pipe wrench to make it work.