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Rotary Tech - General Rotary Engine related tech section.. Tech section for general Rotary Engine... This includes, building 12As, 13Bs, 20Bs, Renesis, etc... |
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#1 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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Intake manifold construction
I'm planning on constructing a new intake manifold for my Turbo-6PI as i'm tired of the cluster F*ck of lines and crap that aren't needed. I need to understand the basic principles of manifold construction and the math that goes into the proper sizing/construction of the manifold itself.
The basics prior to the start of this thread: (I'm going to use my build philosophy as the basis of discussion) Let's assume this is going to be for a street driven vehicle with NA S4 rotors and a T60-1 Turbo that will see track days, hpde, and Auto-x. It will be driven there and back. This manifold will be replacing the intermediate and upper intake manifold with a minimalistic visual interruption philosophy. That basically means the manifold can be as complex as it wants so long as it's visually simple, ie: no extremely complex external shapes, no sharp bends, etc. Internally it can be as complex as it is reliable. Internal of the manifold velocity stacks, electronic runners, etc can be used so long as the probability of failure is less than .1%(just a random number). Also consider that it will be using dual fuel system on the runners. IE: Alcohol, meth, or NOS on the primaries and pump gas on the secondaries. Assumption of enough fuel is given for any specific setup. Turbo may be able to out put anywhere from 5psi-25psi depending on setup needs. Assume suffcient cooling abilities from all heat exchangers (oil cooler, radiator, etc). Any more information can be garnered during the course of the discussion. Here are the preliminaries: Sizing a TB--Is bigger always better? Multi Venteri--The more the better? Pneulum Geometry & Volume--What is the best shape and why? Runners--Length, shape, diameter? Ready? Go!
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#2 |
Slow
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http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...ghlight=intake
This will get you started. If you do the math it will get you close enough, but you will want to plan on making adjustments if you want to pull all you can out of it; every motor is going to want something different. Don't expect to get it right the first time, but close may be sufficient for your needs. The throttle body needs to be big enough that it's not a restriction, but not too much bigger. By multi venturi to you mean multiple injectors? The plenum should be shaped that each rotor gets equal amounts of air. Size depends on that application but I would guess around 1-1.5 liters. Runners should be round since the stock lower manifold will change the shape for the ports. If you want a small taper before it hits the lower manifold will increase velocity, but you don't want to go too extreme. Length is going to depend on the application, and remember, the primaries and secondaries are going to want different lengths but you want them tuned to the same RPM. Hopefully that will get you started. Keep in mind, all this is going to do is point you in the right direction. Testing is where you're going to get answers. Fortunately since you're turbo you can add boost to overcome a poor manifold but that will only get you so far depending on how poor the manifold is. |
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#3 | ||||
RCC Loves Me Not You
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#4 |
The quest for more torque
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The rule of thumb I go by is that you want 0.3 mach in the intake runners at peak torque and uniform cross-sectional area from the plenum to the port. Slight decreasing in area is acceptable as the air enters the rotor. The plenum should be 1.5X the displacment of simultaneously charging volumes (in your case .654 l).
You want to tune your manifold for 2nd harmonic at peak torque to allow for reasonable additional tuning possibilities (3rd and 4th harmonic will also assist you). Rotary intake tuning is signicifcantly different from piston intake tuning because the chamber charges twice as often (once per revolution). Basically, the stock manifold follows all the rules except for the mach 0.3 rule. at 100% VE we get 0.18 mach (average) or 0.33 mach during the 198 degree intake stroke at 7,000 rpm (too small). The secondary plenum is about right for the turbo engine, the primary basically doesn't exist. These rules are what I have compiled from reading a lot of manifold design papers and books, most of the information is for piston engines, but I think most of it can be transferred to rotaries.
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1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic) |
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#5 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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Maybe this is a silly question, but I could have sworn there were aluminum flanges for creating your own manifolds that you could buy. I can't find any except for the REW. Anyone have any websites/locations to buy it from?
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#6 |
The quest for more torque
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Wouldn't REW flanges work for a Turbo II (If you didn't need the coolant for your turbo)?
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1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic) |
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#7 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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It's not a TII. Turbo-6PI
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The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group |
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#8 |
The quest for more torque
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Oh, I missed that. Could you buy a manifold from summit for a holley carb and cut the runners off?
Could you cut the runners off a stock manifold? (You can buy them on eBay all the time). You should be able to make plates for that matter. (Cut them out of sheet stock.) I would love to build my own manifold, but I will have to wait until I get more time. Keep up the good work!
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1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic) |
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#9 | |
Slow
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I don't think that any is better than the other as far as power goes. It would depend on what you have to work with. Each would have to be tuned for where the runner hits "atmosphere" whether it be a plenum, air box, or atmosphere.
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I would build off a stock S4 lower manifold as it already has good transitions to the shapes of the port runners. Depending on how big your ports are going to be, you can hone out the stock lower and it should flow plenty. The EP guys are making good power (rumors of 220+whp) with monster streetports on full S4 manifolds with only internal modifications. |
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#10 | |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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I haven't been able to find the flange, even though I know I've seen them before. I just can't remember where.
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#11 | |
Slow
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Last edited by drewski86; 07-15-2009 at 10:40 PM. |
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