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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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At first, I was looking to do the job for about a grand. But now, I am looking at at least 2K total with new housing and all the bearings replaced.
Because the car is only worth 4-5K at most, I was originally just looking for a freshening of the engine. But, if it needs housings, I might as well go all the way. (I've had the car for all it's life and I can't imagine ever selling it; so, I might as well do the job correctly now.) That means, I will be buying new Rotor Housings. The price is not too unbearable - as long as I don't screw the pooch on the re-assembly. I will have to find out if I will now need new apex seals for the new housing. I will check to see what the measurements I come up with from the old seals.
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...shoot a mother-humpin moose, eight days of the week... Last edited by BLKTOPTRVL; 05-10-2008 at 11:04 PM. |
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#17 | |
rotors excite me
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Iowa
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Not that I'd be happy to bump your costs, but I'd personally HATE to run used seals on new housings, unless they had less than a couple hundred gentle miles on them.
edit: wait, you aren't considering buying ONE new housing and putting it with a used one, are you?
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He isn't a killer. He just wins -- thoroughly. ![]() ![]() '87 TII 240+ rwhp on my DIY streetport, ~13psi on stock turbo, Racing Beat REVTII exhaust ![]() rTek 2.1 awaits a tune Quote:
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#18 |
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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No, two.
Based on the wear pattern I am seeing, I'd have to guess that apex seals are deformed too. But I will wait till I see them to make that call.
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#19 |
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you are talking about buying brand new rotor housings, but using used apex seals?
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#20 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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Quote:
Did I read you correctly, that the new 16X is going to have narrower rotors? I guess that means the overall hight/width of the engine will grow.
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#21 |
Sigh.....
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
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Which would seem to go against what I would image would help the flame front speed problem, but apparently I'm wrong. Or maybe they've figured out a better injection method (direct?) and fixed the problem.
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
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#22 |
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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#23 |
Sigh.....
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 2,377
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Well that explains it.
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
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#24 |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 302
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I had 3 very good 13B NA housings, my dad traded them all in for scrap though
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My car blows up everytime I start it, it's rotary ![]() ![]() |
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#25 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 192
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What to do with old housings...
For those who are following. The front housing has the same dulled chrome as the rear did. So, at 200K my housings are worn out. There is no actual flaking or gouges, just dulled chrome with chatter marks.
So, I will be ordering enough parts that when combined with my good rotors and shaft, I will essentially have a new engine. But now, the question is what to do with the old housings? I don't want to just trash them. I guess I could turn them in for the aluminum value and get (?) 2 or 3 bucks? Or; as I recall there was some company experimenting with re-chroming the housings. I am sure they need a supply of mechanically intact housings to work with. Does anyone know the person(s) who are trying to get a re-chrome process perfected?
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#26 |
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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Haven't posted for a long time, but here is what happened...
After geting the 202K engine disassembled, I found that both rotors were worn; the chrome was not flaking but it was dull. I have researched and learned that a dull crome is not necessarily a KOD (kiss-of-death), but I didn't want to put together an engine with housings that might not last very long. So, looking at the cost of new housings, and the rest of the engine parts, I decided I would still go for it. I liked the idea of having what would basicly be a new engine. Total cost was now going to be about 2K. Then, during a close inspection of the front iron, I found that the outer wall of the inner water seal was gone in two places - worn away. This would add some more to the cost of the engine. Then I found a reman with warranty for a little more than 2K. So, I am putting the 'core' back together and will take delivery of the rebuilt engine on Monday. Adding to the cost will be another $7C for a rebuilt transmission. Spending $2.7K on an engine and tranny for a car that is only worth about $4K does not seem a great idea me; but because it is a vert, in great shape, has much sentimental value, gets ~26MPG, and I can never see selling it, I am proceding.
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...shoot a mother-humpin moose, eight days of the week... Last edited by BLKTOPTRVL; 07-03-2008 at 07:33 PM. |
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#27 |
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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From day one (0 miles), I've always got great mileage from the vert. Top up or top down.
But then, it's always been a great highway car.
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...shoot a mother-humpin moose, eight days of the week... Last edited by BLKTOPTRVL; 07-03-2008 at 07:59 PM. |
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