Joff and MrsJoff's Chaste White BorgWarner FD build - Page 2

toyzzzz · 10-24-2009, 11:38 AM

great choices and great taste. keep up the progress pics.

joff · 10-25-2009, 11:36 AM

After 6+ months of waiting, the 18x9.5 +45 Enkei RPF1's in black have arrived! Pic of test fit on the rear without the rear suspension connected:

MrsJoff didn't like these rims unless we could get drilled/slotted rotors too since these rims show through to the rotors so well. I liked them because they are simple and not "busy" -- I didn't want overly showy/blingy wheels that might draw attention away from the body lines of the FD.

Pettersen · 10-03-2010, 02:59 AM

Great work, i hope i'm able to build my FC to the same standards

SUBSCRIBED!

MrsJoff · 10-08-2010, 02:22 PM

Well, got the estimate for wrapping the back bin pieces in leather and even thought we both really wanted it, it is not happening. They want over $4000 to wrap the four pieces, the bins, divider and the two side speaker panels. Wow! I would rather put that money into some R-Magic headlights.

The newest thing Jesse is adding to the FD to-do list is repainting the engine bay. I agree that it needs to be done, but he wants to paint it black. He fell head over heals for that winning yellow FD at 7Stock and his engine bay was painted black. While I think it looked great for his car, his paint was not an original color, while we are keeping ours the original CW.

What do you guys think, repaint it white or go all out and black it out?

Here is a pic of the engine bay Jesse is getting the idea from

azlizard · 10-25-2009, 03:43 PM

Nice !

mazdamaniac · 10-26-2009, 07:49 PM

Wow. That's not a lot of offset.
If you aren't gonna track the car at all, it probably won't matter though.
Same goes with the drilled rotors, but be careful because they are prone to cracking under even fairly moderate use with aggressive pads.

joff · 11-01-2009, 02:58 AM

My SuperPro bushings finally came Friday so I got everything ready to take down to Scottsdale Automotive today to get new pillow balls and bushings pressed in. In the rear suspension I'm replacing 6 pillowballs with brand new OEM and 12 other bushings with the SuperPro polyurethane replacements. If all this doesn't get rid of the clunking in the rear I don't know what will.

I had a heck of a time trying to get that 17mm nut off the swaybar endlink/lower shock mount. I broke 2 old socket wrenches, 2 3/8" drive 17mm sockets (splayed them apart), and 3 1/2" to 3/8" adapters before I finally got it apart with a 1/2" drive socket wrench with a 5 ft breaker bar. Some of the sockets and socket adapters I broke were name brand (Craftsman) "high end" impact ones too -- they broke with the same applied torque as the cheapo Harbor Freight ones. (it figures -- chrome vanadium is chrome vanadium)

There will definitely be more "survival of the fittest" going on in my toolbox as this project goes on. I've got some new Chrome-moly socket wrenches and chrome-moly sockets now so we'll see if I can't break them when taking out the 15 year old twins later on. :-)

Quote:

Originally Posted by mazdamaniac

Wow. That's not a lot of offset.
If you aren't gonna track the car at all, it probably won't matter though.

Not sure what you mean by being not a lot of offset.

FD Stock offset is +50mm on a 16x8 rim and thats what the suspension geometry was designed for. These are +45mm 18x9.5. +45mm is pretty dang close to keeping stock offset, scrub radius and still fitting some wider tires. Any more offset with the same size rim will hit my trailing arms. Any less offset and you end up with the 4x4 look and increased stress to wheel bearings which is also not something we're after.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mazdamaniac

Same goes with the drilled rotors, but be careful because they are prone to cracking under even fairly moderate use with aggressive pads.

We're keeping with regular pads. The drilled/slotted rotors are for aesthetics only. Here's a pic of them installed in the rear -- definitely better than the rust stained stock ones.

RCCAZ 1 · 11-01-2009, 01:53 PM

Looking good! Just got my aftermarket IAT sensor yesterday. Can't wait to get that sucka installed. Making good progress Jesse!

joff · 11-02-2009, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1

Looking good! Just got my aftermarket IAT sensor yesterday. Can't wait to get that sucka installed. Making good progress Jesse!

Thanks! I got one of those too a few weeks ago. I'm hoping it will help with my hot start idle tune.

We'll be in Vegas for the SEMA show this week. All the nice cars are really good for motivation to get this buildup done. Since you're not going this year, this year will probably be the year lots of nice RX cars are on display.

Although I doubt that I do hope its at least not as overrun with Nissan GTRs as it was last year.

RCCAZ 1 · 11-02-2009, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joff

Thanks! I got one of those too a few weeks ago. I'm hoping it will help with my hot start idle tune.

We'll be in Vegas for the SEMA show this week. All the nice cars are really good for motivation to get this buildup done. Since you're not going this year, this year will probably be the year lots of nice RX cars are on display.

Although I doubt that I do hope its at least not as overrun with Nissan GTRs as it was last year.

Post up some pics from Vegas if you get the chance... Have FUN!

prrex4ever · 11-09-2009, 10:26 PM

Just a little messy.

joff · 11-19-2009, 01:47 AM

Old wheels/tires (17" 235s) vs. new wheels/tires (18" 285s):

Despite being a lot wider, the new wheel combo is actually 4 lbs lighter than the old. (44 vs. 48)

Other things I did last weekend:

- changed rear brake lines to stainless lines
- went over to a friend's who had a 12-ton press to press in rear pillow balls and bushings.
- botched putting another coat of clear on the tinted lights. Ended up with horrible orange-peel/crackling and had to wet sand, buff, and recoat.
- removed fuel pump for AZRR to modify bracket for Bosch 044:

Brent · 11-19-2009, 11:42 PM

project looks great!

joff · 11-28-2009, 02:09 PM

Well, I finally got all the bushings replaced in the rear and put everything back together.

$4 home depot bushing installer since using a press here was an exercise in futility. It was about impossible to get the bushing started straight without this.

Without the swaybar and shock/spring installed, I used a jack to check clearances at max travel. The first thing to hit is the fender lip, shown here. A slight fender roll/pull should fix this.

Front inside wheel well I have about a penny's diameter from the trailing arm to the tire. This is what I was most concerned about in the rears -- I found one spreadsheet online that said 285's on 9.5" rims w/ 45 offset would not fit and that I'd hit the trailing arm. Not so. The rotors ended up being slightly thicker than the OEM ones too which helped. I'm hoping having replaced the bushings in the trailing arms/toe links with stiffer superpros should keep any dynamic toe-in to a minimum since it would reduce this spacing.

Another pic of wheel/tire fitment:

Overall, I am very happy with how the wheel fills the wheel well. I am not a fan of low offset wheels that stick out too much and give the look of a 4x4. This is the limit of what I consider still looks good.

After replacing the upper arm bushings, it was a major pain to get this piece reinstalled. I had to use a large flat head screw driver as a crow bar to even get this started and then had to pound it in with a 4-lb hammer. Since they are so tight, I'm worried about squeeking.

Turbo II Rotor · 11-28-2009, 03:58 PM

Try some silicone spray lubricant where the bushing meets the chassis.

10-24-2009, 11:38 AM	#1
toyzzzz The Newbie Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Tucson, Az Posts: 20 Rep Power: 0	great choices and great taste. keep up the progress pics. __________________

10-26-2009, 07:49 PM	#6
mazdamaniac Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Under my car Posts: 99 Rep Power: 18	Wow. That's not a lot of offset. If you aren't gonna track the car at all, it probably won't matter though. Same goes with the drilled rotors, but be careful because they are prone to cracking under even fairly moderate use with aggressive pads. __________________

11-19-2009, 11:42 PM	#13
Brent Sua Sponte Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Killeen, TX Posts: 839 Rep Power: 18	project looks great! __________________ Road Atlanta August 2011 NASA TT 1:33 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFY00PAK_Ps Traqmate's video of my car from the 2011 UTCC at VIR http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Zcn6...layer_embedded Video of Yellow LS1 FD at NASA TT at VIR http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6k0lJkcwrM

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10-25-2009, 11:36 AM	#2
joff Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Mesa, Arizona Posts: 114 Rep Power: 17	After 6+ months of waiting, the 18x9.5 +45 Enkei RPF1's in black have arrived! Pic of test fit on the rear without the rear suspension connected: MrsJoff didn't like these rims unless we could get drilled/slotted rotors too since these rims show through to the rotors so well. I liked them because they are simple and not "busy" -- I didn't want overly showy/blingy wheels that might draw attention away from the body lines of the FD.

10-03-2010, 02:59 AM	#3
Pettersen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Posts: 163 Rep Power: 16	Great work, i hope i'm able to build my FC to the same standards SUBSCRIBED!

10-08-2010, 02:22 PM	#4
MrsJoff Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NE Mesa, AZ Posts: 46 Rep Power: 0	Well, got the estimate for wrapping the back bin pieces in leather and even thought we both really wanted it, it is not happening. They want over $4000 to wrap the four pieces, the bins, divider and the two side speaker panels. Wow! I would rather put that money into some R-Magic headlights. The newest thing Jesse is adding to the FD to-do list is repainting the engine bay. I agree that it needs to be done, but he wants to paint it black. He fell head over heals for that winning yellow FD at 7Stock and his engine bay was painted black. While I think it looked great for his car, his paint was not an original color, while we are keeping ours the original CW. What do you guys think, repaint it white or go all out and black it out? Here is a pic of the engine bay Jesse is getting the idea from

10-25-2009, 03:43 PM	#5
azlizard The Newbie Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Phoenix Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	Nice !

11-01-2009, 01:53 PM	#8
RCCAZ 1 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 288 Rep Power: 18	Looking good! Just got my aftermarket IAT sensor yesterday. Can't wait to get that sucka installed. Making good progress Jesse!

11-09-2009, 10:26 PM	#11
prrex4ever Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 274 Rep Power: 17	Just a little messy.

11-19-2009, 01:47 AM	#12
joff Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Mesa, Arizona Posts: 114 Rep Power: 17	Old wheels/tires (17" 235s) vs. new wheels/tires (18" 285s): Despite being a lot wider, the new wheel combo is actually 4 lbs lighter than the old. (44 vs. 48) Other things I did last weekend: - changed rear brake lines to stainless lines - went over to a friend's who had a 12-ton press to press in rear pillow balls and bushings. - botched putting another coat of clear on the tinted lights. Ended up with horrible orange-peel/crackling and had to wet sand, buff, and recoat. - removed fuel pump for AZRR to modify bracket for Bosch 044:

11-28-2009, 02:09 PM	#14
joff Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Mesa, Arizona Posts: 114 Rep Power: 17	Well, I finally got all the bushings replaced in the rear and put everything back together. $4 home depot bushing installer since using a press here was an exercise in futility. It was about impossible to get the bushing started straight without this. Without the swaybar and shock/spring installed, I used a jack to check clearances at max travel. The first thing to hit is the fender lip, shown here. A slight fender roll/pull should fix this. Front inside wheel well I have about a penny's diameter from the trailing arm to the tire. This is what I was most concerned about in the rears -- I found one spreadsheet online that said 285's on 9.5" rims w/ 45 offset would not fit and that I'd hit the trailing arm. Not so. The rotors ended up being slightly thicker than the OEM ones too which helped. I'm hoping having replaced the bushings in the trailing arms/toe links with stiffer superpros should keep any dynamic toe-in to a minimum since it would reduce this spacing. Another pic of wheel/tire fitment: Overall, I am very happy with how the wheel fills the wheel well. I am not a fan of low offset wheels that stick out too much and give the look of a 4x4. This is the limit of what I consider still looks good. After replacing the upper arm bushings, it was a major pain to get this piece reinstalled. I had to use a large flat head screw driver as a crow bar to even get this started and then had to pound it in with a 4-lb hammer. Since they are so tight, I'm worried about squeeking.

11-28-2009, 03:58 PM	#15
Turbo II Rotor Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Aurora, CO Posts: 59 Rep Power: 17	Try some silicone spray lubricant where the bushing meets the chassis.