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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old 04-23-2011, 11:45 PM   #1
tweiss3
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well do you premix?
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2004 Mazda6 V6 5-spd - still waiting on money for a motor
1991 Mazda RX7 NA 5-spd - my new DD with 145,000 miles
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:17 PM   #2
infernosg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vex View Post
Eh, that's not as bad as it could be. I'd be a little more concerned if the primary oil line was broken (the one that sits directly on the rotor housing).
I haven't thoroughly inspected the other lines but they seem brittle as hell. What are these things made out of? What should I use to replace them?
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well do you premix?
Nope, never saw a reason as the engine was stock and I assumed the oil injection system was working just fine.
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Old 04-24-2011, 02:06 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by infernosg View Post
I haven't thoroughly inspected the other lines but they seem brittle as hell. What are these things made out of? What should I use to replace them?
You can make your own I believe out of PTFE, but I'd have to double check to make certain. There's a few write ups floating around about it. You could also order from Malloy and pick up some factory ones which are pre-formed for proper installation.
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Nope, never saw a reason as the engine was stock and I assumed the oil injection system was working just fine.
What's that adage about assuming...?
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Old 05-02-2011, 08:02 PM   #4
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Starting pulling the engine apart and found some more interesting things. Notice all the oil buildup. I think there was something seriously wrong with the front rotor/housing/iron - this thing is nasty.





Here's a picture of the auxilliary port sleeve for the front rotor (far upper right port in the previous picture). Again, note the oil buildup.





Now here's the rear sleeve. Notice how this one is basically spotless but there may be a reason for that. When I tried to turn the actuators the drive the sleeves I could not get the rear to move AT ALL. It doesn't seem like it has moved in a while.





Now some spark plugs. First picture is the front rotor and the second is the rear. It may be hard to see but the plugs for the first rotor are noticeably "wet" while the plugs for the rear rotor are dry. Looks like oil to me.




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Old 05-02-2011, 09:57 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by infernosg View Post
Starting pulling the engine apart and found some more interesting things. Notice all the oil buildup. I think there was something seriously wrong with the front rotor/housing/iron - this thing is nasty.


That looks about normal for a long life engine. Maybe you should clean it more often
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Here's a picture of the auxilliary port sleeve for the front rotor (far upper right port in the previous picture). Again, note the oil buildup.


Yes. That however, is not normal. My thought would be that the oil from the broken feed line has weeped into the gasket and soaked through that and has been deposited over time into the back wall portion of the sleeve. Something to consider is that the same debris that caused that build up also probably went into your combustion chamber.
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Now here's the rear sleeve. Notice how this one is basically spotless but there may be a reason for that. When I tried to turn the actuators the drive the sleeves I could not get the rear to move AT ALL. It doesn't seem like it has moved in a while.
That is an easy fix. Mine did the same thing until I broke it loose. Use some penetrating oil (pb blaster and the like) on the internal chamber (you'll need to spray it into the hole) and on the shaft, let it soak in over night. Then chuck the actuator in a vice or secure it to a wood block and push the shaft to break any of the other debris. Flush with more penetrating oil. Once cleaned lobe some lithium grease onto the shaft and work it into the chamber via the shaft (don't try shoving it into the hole). That should free the actuators right up.
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Old 06-09-2011, 12:00 PM   #6
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Tyler already knows about this but I figured I'd update the thread with the conclusions. FINALLY tore the engine down completely last night. Go figure the failed part is the last exposed. Failed coolant seal like I suspected on the front iron although the extent of the damage is more than I ever expected. Looks like I have a junk iron now...



A closer look:



I'm unsure whether this is the cause of the effect of the overheating event. I plan on returning to the track after the rebuild but I'm now worried about overheating. An upgraded radiator and all new hoses will be installed and I'm also removing heater core so there's no place for the coolant to go except the engine or the radiator. I'd love to underdrive the water pump but there's no way to do that without also underdriving the alternator.
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