Rotorhead87's Cosmo 13B-RE FC3S build-up - Page 3

rotorhead87 · 10-04-2008, 02:23 PM

Alright here we go again....As the car sat for a while, at the same time the 13B-RE was being ported rebuilt, etc..etc...Well to let time pass and have the sense of productivity I decided to pull the tired S4 turbo motor out. When the alternator died I pulled it out and never put it back in. Well thankfully my friend who allowed me to use their garage and tools to pull the motor lived a couple of blocks away, so I ended up driving the car there on just a full charged battery. It took me a couple of days to pull the motor out because I was trying to balance out a full-time college schedule along with work. Here are some pictures of the motor when it was being pulled out. BTW I happened to only broke 2 or 3 bolts throughout the process. WooHooo!!

Here's the stock S4 turbo motor all stock

Radiator, intercooler, oil cooler, air box removed

Getting ready to pull the motor

And out she goes...

The aftermath of 20 years. Not bad at all just a little bit of surface rust under where the battery was loacted at.

Finally the hideous exhaust is scrapped and tail light were with me getting reconditioned.

Phoenix7 · 10-04-2008, 02:41 PM

the wheels look great on the car! Good job and keep us updated. I love the sig too.

need RX7 · 10-04-2008, 02:41 PM

Lookin' good!

rotorhead87 · 10-07-2008, 01:47 PM

Thanks for the compliments everyone!

rotorhead87 · 10-07-2008, 02:46 PM

I'm gonna go ahead give you all another update.

Let's see....Since I had polished a bunch of parts I figured it just wouldn't be right to drop a clean motor into a 20 year old dirty engine bay. I decided to go ahead a clean and prep the engine bay for paint. I was going to go ahead and keep the stock royal maroon metallic since I really like the color. I also wanted to go ahead and try to go for a sleeper look and bought a vert hood.

The dirty engine bay I decided to take on...

After a few good washes with a pressure washer, drenching with degreaser, scotch-brite pad, and alot of elbow grease.

Getting prepped for paint covering and taping up pieces.

Just finished getting sprayed...Gotta love wet paint

I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I don't have any pictures but I reconditioned the rusty brake booster and replaced the leaking master cylinder. Also I removed all the exhaust heat shields and painted them with high temp aluminum silver. It's amazing how little things in the engine bay can either ruin or enhance the visual appeal of the engine bay;this just goes to show everyone.

Well I hope everyone enjoys the work I've done so far as much as I do!

stylEmon · 10-12-2008, 09:50 PM

looking great. Nothing beats a nice engine bay. What else are you going to do to "Simplify"?

rotorhead87 · 10-13-2008, 07:50 AM

There really wasn't much to "simplify" afterwards just complication. Other than what I have in the pictures I believe I removed the stock ECU and the ABS ecu and wires, all of the A/C components underneath the dash except for the blower motor for those rainy days. Can't really think of anything else since it's been a while.

stylEmon · 10-13-2008, 09:36 AM

are gonna relocate the battery, clean up the coil mounting area?... stuff like that.

rotorhead87 · 10-13-2008, 10:50 AM

Oh yeah..definately I got a Moroso battery box and a Optima ready to go in the hatch area (not yet installed) and I had the coils relocated elsewhere. You'll see soon I'll eventually have pictures posted up.

rotorhead87 · 10-13-2008, 12:12 PM

Okay just some more picture updates

I'll just be posting stuff of what I got for the car because at the time nothing much was going on because I was busy with RN school and work etc...but I did manage to get some depth in my pockets and buy a few essential and BS over a couple of months.

Full ACT clutch kit: Streetlite flywheel, Xtreme pressure plate, and sprung 6 puck clutch disc.

I love junkyards but I got a set of S5 tails and side mirrors, S5 spoiler, and FTP lenses for $130. I decided just to hang on to the spoiler.

Ebay mazdaspeed steering wheel, NRG steering hub & quick disconnect, HKS turbo timer, and the autometer dual pod with fuel pressure and boost sport-comp gauges

Koyo radiator and 24''x11''x3'' bar & plate intercooler

TurboXS type-H RFL --> super loud

87 t-66 · 10-13-2008, 04:50 PM

nice

rotorhead87 · 10-17-2008, 08:44 AM

While I was saving up throughout the months passing by, the 13B-RE that I bought blowned up was in the process of being rebuilt. During those times all I could think was "Damn, is it really gonna be worth dumping all this money on my car!" I figured I would go ahead and stick to that old saying of "If your going to do it, do it right the first time." It makes sense to the common mind. There is also another neat saying using the words: Cheap, Reliable, Fast you can only have two out of the three.

I saw this somewhere a long time ago I thought it was really true:
- You can have a car that is Cheap and Reliable, but it isn't gonna be Fast
- You can have a car that is Fast and built very Cheap, but sure isn't Reliable
- You can have a car that is Fast and Reliable, but sure the hell isn't Cheap!!

Okay enough with the sayings. I had the bought brand new seals, gaskets, fittings, etc for a complete rebuild. The new FD3S rotor housings I bought got their exhaust ports opened up a bit, water jacket modification, machined for pinning. As for the steels they were relapped, machined for pinning, and of course given a large streetport. I had 6 extra 12a dowel pins put into the motor. Since emissions is of not concern to Florida, anything to do with helping the environment is gone. I had the oil metering pump removed because I just couldn't trust something so old and very expensive to do it's job on my new motor. As for the UIM and LIM I had them port matched and smoothen all the runners alot <---actually required alot of welding. Lets just say if I were to shine a flash light into a runner, you would be able to see a tad bit of the actual light source. Alright lets get to the pictures. Sorry everyone, I cannot post pictures of the porting and pinning by request of my builder.

Polished eccetric shaft

S5 rotors with OEM 2mm 2-piece apex seals, also double sprunged

The upper intake manifold before and after. Do you see what I mean about alot of welding.

The lower intake manifold before and after.

after having all the excess aluminum removed

Lastly polished

And last the pinned,ported, polished bastardized motor composed of piece from all the other generations...my Cosmo 13B-RE block.

Since the FD rotor housings were brand new it would be a great chance to do anything to assist the motor in cooling. So I had the Water Jacket modification done at the shop. Exactly like this picture from racingbeat's website. Here's their explaination of the modification for those who wonder why:

"The Rotor Housing Water Jacket Modification is intended to improve cooling in the hot zone of the rotor housing to increase both housing and seal life. This modification involves cutting grooves in the water jacket in the vicinity of the leading and trailing spark plugs to increase heat transfer out of the housing inner surface. The modification can be performed on a new rotor housing, and is only appropriate for race and the most extreme street use."

rotorhead87 · 10-18-2008, 02:43 PM

Yeah...I know that the block looks assembled on the table. I just had the housings all put together just to get a glimpse of what it looks like. You get the idea!

WE3RX7 · 10-20-2008, 07:01 PM

Looking good - very similar color choice for my block.

Who did the polishing on the manifolds or were they just dipped?

rotorhead87 · 10-21-2008, 06:31 PM

I actually did the polishing myself...not the best polishing job in the world but good enough to my standards. I don't believe I did too bad for a first timer with a full time college schedule.

10-04-2008, 02:23 PM	#31
rotorhead87 Rotors > Pistons Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Port Saint Lucie, Florida Posts: 316 Rep Power: 17	Alright here we go again....As the car sat for a while, at the same time the 13B-RE was being ported rebuilt, etc..etc...Well to let time pass and have the sense of productivity I decided to pull the tired S4 turbo motor out. When the alternator died I pulled it out and never put it back in. Well thankfully my friend who allowed me to use their garage and tools to pull the motor lived a couple of blocks away, so I ended up driving the car there on just a full charged battery. It took me a couple of days to pull the motor out because I was trying to balance out a full-time college schedule along with work. Here are some pictures of the motor when it was being pulled out. BTW I happened to only broke 2 or 3 bolts throughout the process. WooHooo!! Here's the stock S4 turbo motor all stock Radiator, intercooler, oil cooler, air box removed Getting ready to pull the motor And out she goes... The aftermath of 20 years. Not bad at all just a little bit of surface rust under where the battery was loacted at. Finally the hideous exhaust is scrapped and tail light were with me getting reconditioned. __________________ *UPDATED 06/15/2009* Check out My VMIC Turbo 13B-RE FC3S build

10-04-2008, 02:41 PM	#33
need RX7 Clean S4 Nutswinger Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sterling Heights, MI Posts: 485 Rep Power: 18	Lookin' good! __________________ -Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress.

10-07-2008, 01:47 PM	#34
rotorhead87 Rotors > Pistons Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Port Saint Lucie, Florida Posts: 316 Rep Power: 17	Thanks for the compliments everyone! __________________ *UPDATED 06/15/2009* Check out My VMIC Turbo 13B-RE FC3S build

10-07-2008, 02:46 PM	#35
rotorhead87 Rotors > Pistons Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Port Saint Lucie, Florida Posts: 316 Rep Power: 17	I'm gonna go ahead give you all another update. Let's see....Since I had polished a bunch of parts I figured it just wouldn't be right to drop a clean motor into a 20 year old dirty engine bay. I decided to go ahead a clean and prep the engine bay for paint. I was going to go ahead and keep the stock royal maroon metallic since I really like the color. I also wanted to go ahead and try to go for a sleeper look and bought a vert hood. The dirty engine bay I decided to take on... After a few good washes with a pressure washer, drenching with degreaser, scotch-brite pad, and alot of elbow grease. Getting prepped for paint covering and taping up pieces. Just finished getting sprayed...Gotta love wet paint I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I don't have any pictures but I reconditioned the rusty brake booster and replaced the leaking master cylinder. Also I removed all the exhaust heat shields and painted them with high temp aluminum silver. It's amazing how little things in the engine bay can either ruin or enhance the visual appeal of the engine bay;this just goes to show everyone. Well I hope everyone enjoys the work I've done so far as much as I do! __________________ *UPDATED 06/15/2009* Check out My VMIC Turbo 13B-RE FC3S build

10-12-2008, 09:50 PM	#36
stylEmon Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 125 Rep Power: 18	looking great. Nothing beats a nice engine bay. What else are you going to do to "Simplify"? __________________ See the Rebuild Process Here Curious About Deadband Timing? The BLACK BEAST is For Sale

10-13-2008, 07:50 AM	#37
rotorhead87 Rotors > Pistons Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Port Saint Lucie, Florida Posts: 316 Rep Power: 17	There really wasn't much to "simplify" afterwards just complication. Other than what I have in the pictures I believe I removed the stock ECU and the ABS ecu and wires, all of the A/C components underneath the dash except for the blower motor for those rainy days. Can't really think of anything else since it's been a while. __________________ *UPDATED 06/15/2009* Check out My VMIC Turbo 13B-RE FC3S build

10-13-2008, 09:36 AM	#38
stylEmon Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 125 Rep Power: 18	are gonna relocate the battery, clean up the coil mounting area?... stuff like that. __________________ See the Rebuild Process Here Curious About Deadband Timing? The BLACK BEAST is For Sale

10-13-2008, 10:50 AM	#39
rotorhead87 Rotors > Pistons Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Port Saint Lucie, Florida Posts: 316 Rep Power: 17	Oh yeah..definately I got a Moroso battery box and a Optima ready to go in the hatch area (not yet installed) and I had the coils relocated elsewhere. You'll see soon I'll eventually have pictures posted up. __________________ *UPDATED 06/15/2009* Check out My VMIC Turbo 13B-RE FC3S build

10-13-2008, 12:12 PM	#40
rotorhead87 Rotors > Pistons Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Port Saint Lucie, Florida Posts: 316 Rep Power: 17	Okay just some more picture updates I'll just be posting stuff of what I got for the car because at the time nothing much was going on because I was busy with RN school and work etc...but I did manage to get some depth in my pockets and buy a few essential and BS over a couple of months. Full ACT clutch kit: Streetlite flywheel, Xtreme pressure plate, and sprung 6 puck clutch disc. I love junkyards but I got a set of S5 tails and side mirrors, S5 spoiler, and FTP lenses for $130. I decided just to hang on to the spoiler. Ebay mazdaspeed steering wheel, NRG steering hub & quick disconnect, HKS turbo timer, and the autometer dual pod with fuel pressure and boost sport-comp gauges Koyo radiator and 24''x11''x3'' bar & plate intercooler TurboXS type-H RFL --> super loud __________________ *UPDATED 06/15/2009* Check out My VMIC Turbo 13B-RE FC3S build

10-13-2008, 04:50 PM	#41
87 t-66 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 161 Rep Power: 18	nice __________________ 87 T2 90 T2 'Vert

10-17-2008, 08:44 AM	#42
rotorhead87 Rotors > Pistons Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Port Saint Lucie, Florida Posts: 316 Rep Power: 17	While I was saving up throughout the months passing by, the 13B-RE that I bought blowned up was in the process of being rebuilt. During those times all I could think was "Damn, is it really gonna be worth dumping all this money on my car!" I figured I would go ahead and stick to that old saying of "If your going to do it, do it right the first time." It makes sense to the common mind. There is also another neat saying using the words: Cheap, Reliable, Fast you can only have two out of the three. I saw this somewhere a long time ago I thought it was really true: - You can have a car that is Cheap and Reliable, but it isn't gonna be Fast - You can have a car that is Fast and built very Cheap, but sure isn't Reliable - You can have a car that is Fast and Reliable, but sure the hell isn't Cheap!! Okay enough with the sayings. I had the bought brand new seals, gaskets, fittings, etc for a complete rebuild. The new FD3S rotor housings I bought got their exhaust ports opened up a bit, water jacket modification, machined for pinning. As for the steels they were relapped, machined for pinning, and of course given a large streetport. I had 6 extra 12a dowel pins put into the motor. Since emissions is of not concern to Florida, anything to do with helping the environment is gone. I had the oil metering pump removed because I just couldn't trust something so old and very expensive to do it's job on my new motor. As for the UIM and LIM I had them port matched and smoothen all the runners alot <---actually required alot of welding. Lets just say if I were to shine a flash light into a runner, you would be able to see a tad bit of the actual light source. Alright lets get to the pictures. Sorry everyone, I cannot post pictures of the porting and pinning by request of my builder. Polished eccetric shaft S5 rotors with OEM 2mm 2-piece apex seals, also double sprunged The upper intake manifold before and after. Do you see what I mean about alot of welding. The lower intake manifold before and after. after having all the excess aluminum removed Lastly polished And last the pinned,ported, polished bastardized motor composed of piece from all the other generations...my Cosmo 13B-RE block. Since the FD rotor housings were brand new it would be a great chance to do anything to assist the motor in cooling. So I had the Water Jacket modification done at the shop. Exactly like this picture from racingbeat's website. Here's their explaination of the modification for those who wonder why: "The Rotor Housing Water Jacket Modification is intended to improve cooling in the hot zone of the rotor housing to increase both housing and seal life. This modification involves cutting grooves in the water jacket in the vicinity of the leading and trailing spark plugs to increase heat transfer out of the housing inner surface. The modification can be performed on a new rotor housing, and is only appropriate for race and the most extreme street use." __________________ *UPDATED 06/15/2009* Check out My VMIC Turbo 13B-RE FC3S build Last edited by rotorhead87; 11-04-2008 at 08:15 AM. Reason: ADD more information

10-18-2008, 02:43 PM	#43
rotorhead87 Rotors > Pistons Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Port Saint Lucie, Florida Posts: 316 Rep Power: 17	Yeah...I know that the block looks assembled on the table. I just had the housings all put together just to get a glimpse of what it looks like. You get the idea!

10-20-2008, 07:01 PM	#44
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 19	Looking good - very similar color choice for my block. Who did the polishing on the manifolds or were they just dipped?

10-21-2008, 06:31 PM	#45
rotorhead87 Rotors > Pistons Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Port Saint Lucie, Florida Posts: 316 Rep Power: 17	I actually did the polishing myself...not the best polishing job in the world but good enough to my standards. I don't believe I did too bad for a first timer with a full time college schedule. Last edited by rotorhead87; 10-21-2008 at 06:37 PM.

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