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Old 05-28-2010, 11:38 AM   #1
RETed
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1600F - 1700F is way too high for 2nd / 3rd gear + aux injection...
Unless you were boosting like 20psi+?

I would think it would be more in the 700C / 1300F range, especially with the aux injection kicking in?

What kinda spark plugs are you running?


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because you're only as good as your backup
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Old 05-28-2010, 12:08 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
1600F - 1700F is way too high for 2nd / 3rd gear + aux injection...
Unless you were boosting like 20psi+?

I would think it would be more in the 700C / 1300F range, especially with the aux injection kicking in?

What kinda spark plugs are you running?


-Ted
My mistake Ted that was in first gear and AUX injection kicks on for a split second(around 5K or so).

I was boosting 15 psi

NGK BUR9EQ
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Old 05-28-2010, 06:56 PM   #3
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Sean i got your back 100% You deserve some fun dammit!!!!
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Old 05-28-2010, 08:04 PM   #4
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Thanks homie!
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Old 05-28-2010, 10:14 PM   #5
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Ted I know you are big on tuning w/ the EGT gauge and one of the few I know of that are brave enough to use only the EGT to tune. What are you looking for in the logs of the EGT for the cause of this?

What are your thoughts on the cracking of plates. Everything I have seen points to a misfire which causes more strain on the block. I am wondering if the addition of the aux injection could have a cause on this. IMO there is not a huge need for aux injection at the 400 hp level. If you proceed upwards getting close to 500 is where it would be good investment.

Always willing to listen. Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-29-2010, 11:50 AM   #6
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Ted I know you are big on tuning w/ the EGT gauge and one of the few I know of that are brave enough to use only the EGT to tune. What are you looking for in the logs of the EGT for the cause of this?
My thoughts on tuning with EGT here:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/EL/GAUGES/egt.htm

I still don't like how hot the EGT's were, especially it's in the lower gears...


Quote:
What are your thoughts on the cracking of plates. Everything I have seen points to a misfire which causes more strain on the block. I am wondering if the addition of the aux injection could have a cause on this. IMO there is not a huge need for aux injection at the 400 hp level. If you proceed upwards getting close to 500 is where it would be good investment.
If fuel was under control, it has to be ignition timing somehow...
Overly hot intake temps are basically out of the question, since aux injection was used.
Even misfires would register on the P-FC - unless the P-FC was malfunctioning and not showing true knock?

EGT's are still too high for under those conditions.
I would've liked to see them down in the 1300F range or even slightly lower.
I'm not an aux injection guru, so it's hard for me to confirm or dismiss the aux injection as a problem, but I always though the EGT's should come down due to the aux injection...

Do you mind posting your ignition timing #'s under those ranges?

Long shot...do you remember how much torque you guys put through the tension bolts when rebuilding?
Stock Mazda tension bolts, right?
Did you do anything funky with the adapter for the oil supply line to turbo in that same area?
Crush washer, right?
Approximate torque on the adapter?


-Ted
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Old 05-28-2010, 10:32 PM   #7
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I believe he chose aux injection because of the octane rating in the gas here... at least that was part of the reason.
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Old 05-29-2010, 11:10 AM   #8
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Yeah...91 octane here.

Plus I really just wanted the knock deterrant when I started to push 18 psi.
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Old 05-29-2010, 11:46 AM   #9
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I understand completely. I run 91 here on 17 psi on the street w/ no A/I but everyone has a little different thought on it. That is why I was asking w/ Ted thought. I like to hear others opinions and compare to what I have seen. I don't know another way to learn more.
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Old 05-29-2010, 06:47 PM   #10
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Well from my memory when we rebuilt. we torqued the tension bolts to mazda spec. and in the correct order

sorry sean, dont mean to thread jack just tryin to help solve the mystery
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Old 05-29-2010, 08:29 PM   #11
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I would like to see the ign maps and rough revs/boost at the time of the crack. I still say that the AFR's were too low. I don't like overly rich mixtures.

Besides, I need more ammo in my quest to convince some dumbass to change his mind about some bone head idea













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Old 05-29-2010, 10:42 PM   #12
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^

Hate all you want Brian........I am not changing my mind lol.
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Old 05-29-2010, 10:48 PM   #13
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I don't hate the idea of the engine, I just had a huge hand in one. I just think that rebuilding would at least let you enjoy the car WAY sooner. I mean, you're the guy that took what, 9 months to drive 1500 miles? I'll have a garage loaded with an FB, FC, FC vert, FD, and a 26b FD before you get done

As far as your goals for the car, yes, that engine does make sense to a point. You won't have any headaches or worries as far as the engine living a long happy life at that power. However, it will take years to get that unsophisticated lump of AL into the bay as cleanly as you have the damn good looking 13b in there.
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It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

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Old 05-30-2010, 10:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
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However, it will take years to get that unsophisticated lump of AL into the bay as cleanly as you have the damn good looking 13b in there.
HAHAHA I beg to differ my friend....see now I have a fire under my ass because I am pissed and RE-motivated. I give my self a year...year and a half tops lol.
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:55 PM   #15
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I read this the other day and didn't respond immediately. I'm sorry your iron cracked. I'd have to see a lot more info before giving my two cents, but it sounds like ignition related... knock isn't everything.

As for the choice of swap - to each their own, I just get saddened when RE guys are so quick to jump ship. IMHO its killing what the car is when you do that swap, but its not my car and I'll never do it... so more power to ya. Good luck with the next build.
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