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Show your rotary car build up. Show off your Rotary Car build!

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Old 04-27-2015, 03:55 PM   #1
C. Ludwig
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One of you guys email me the map currently in the ECU, please.
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Old 04-27-2015, 04:56 PM   #2
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Doing that now.
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Old 06-05-2015, 06:07 AM   #3
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Dibs on the first burnout!!!
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Old 06-05-2015, 06:20 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by almoststockfc View Post
Dibs on the first burnout!!!
I want to celebrate like I did in the parking lot years ago when you lived by the school! That's the kind of celebration I deserve!!!
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Old 06-05-2015, 06:26 AM   #5
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Awesome to read you got everything sorted out. Little stuff like that is always the last thing checked...
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Old 06-05-2015, 06:29 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infernosg View Post
Little stuff like that is always the last thing checked...
Yeah, it's unfortunate but I'm just happy it's over with!
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Old 06-08-2015, 07:25 PM   #7
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glad you got it worked out, we need to go on a cruise now
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Old 06-08-2015, 11:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny_K View Post
glad you got it worked out, we need to go on a cruise now
Yes sir, that would be nice. Ideally I would like to have more tuning done before driving outside of town. That, and most importantly my tags are expired so I'd like to have a fighting chance at emissions testing before I waste the time and money. I'll get with Jacob sometime.
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Old 06-12-2015, 12:52 AM   #9
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Chris helped me out tremendously with making my two gauges (pressure & temp) perform two different functions a piece by drawing up a color-coded wiring diagram as well as suggesting which switches to use. I had been putting this off because I was afraid to cut up the gauge harnesses without being completely sure where each wire goes.

Thursday I started trimming the gauge harnesses and adding connectors and switches to both. I got it completed yesterday, everything worked perfectly. I added small labels to the mount to use as a cheat-sheet till it's commited to memory.


I'm using the temp gauge for oil and water. Problem with using it to monitor coolant temps was that the ECU had its own dedicated sensor for coolant temp so an additional hole needed to be added for the gauge. . . I used one of the coolant bypass ports for the extra sensor by drilling and tapping NPT threads. I've heard plugging the bypass ports is a no no but these ports have been inactive forever without any problems (that i'm aware of. .)


The pressure gauge I'm using for both oil and fuel. No issue here other than the need for a pedestal to mount the two extra sensors for monitoring the oil. I decided to use the FFE 13B REW pedestal that will work on a 13B when the REW's oil cooler hole is plugged, I found the plug on eBay for ~$5 (not pictured).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20150611_101529_244.jpg (90.9 KB, 63 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20150611_101739_256.jpg (111.0 KB, 64 views)
File Type: jpg 11038727_932785850076228_4609598598501079298_n.jpg (81.9 KB, 63 views)
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Last edited by FC Zach; 06-12-2015 at 01:00 AM.
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Old 06-12-2015, 08:44 AM   #10
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Neat idea with the gauges. I wish I thought of something like that when I was still trying to figure everything out. I went with the "expensive" option of upgrading the ECU to a PS1000 and using a RacePak display.

I don't see the issue with "plugging the bypass port." Doesn't it go to the intake manifold or something? I got rid of mine because there was no place for coolant to go with everything else I'd removed.
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Old 06-12-2015, 11:41 AM   #11
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No issue with plugging that port. The lines runs from the rear iron, through the intake for the thermowax cold idle function, and then to the water pump. Plug the pump and the rear iron and you're done.
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Old 06-12-2015, 12:27 PM   #12
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Yeah mine has been plugged for some time now, I just remember talking with a reputable rotary guy in the local community where he went on about the importance of having the two ports tied together. . something about air pockets that "could" be trapped in the rear iron. .

The theory made sense by the way he explained it but it never worried me much. I was more so stating it as a disclaimer to avoid any shaming
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Last edited by FC Zach; 03-02-2017 at 01:29 AM.
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:08 PM   #13
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So I got an emissions test done on the Mazda today. Although I didn't expect it to pass I definitely didn't see it doing worse than when it was carbed. . . The car hasn't been tuned much so more will be needed (which is why I didn't expect much), I was just hoping it was running a little lean but that is definitely not the case. A separate tune for emissions will be needed.

Here's the EFI results:


And carbed results from many years ago:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20150616_141028_212.jpg (74.9 KB, 116 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20150616_143150_436.jpg (34.5 KB, 116 views)
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Last edited by FC Zach; 06-16-2015 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:48 PM   #14
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Rotaries run rich at idle (to idle well), especially ported ones. and my RX8 with no cat still smelled like my FC.

You need a cat or an extremely lean tune with barely running bc of retarded timing to pass emissions... (and know a guy who is gonna say "yep, looks like a cat under there").

EFI will get you precision and repeatability/consistency, but it'll still smell and kill the environment
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:59 PM   #15
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What I really enjoy is that neither of my cars have cats and they've never questioned me. Hell, the celica shits daisies with absolutely no emissions (JDM engine).
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