R4ITEI's 10th AE Money Pit.

[Pete_89T2]

Originally Posted by r4itei

Suspension bushings. Prothane vs Energy Suspension? Pros and Cons of either?
I recall reading a long time ago, something about how it makes the suspension too stiff and how some parts they used the OEM and some the polys?

Springs. Debating on Tanabe GF210 or Suspension Techniques or RB. I've been googling for 20-30 minutes and not sure whether I'm just retarded. For any/all 3, linear/progressive? spring rates F/R? more street/track oriented?

From a first glance, I would prefer a progressive spring since it'll be more forgiving on the street and keep up when I kick it on track. Just from what I've read, no real experience yet. Penny for your thoughts?

I haven't done the full bushing job yet (only did the sway bar bushings so far), so I really can't comment WRT comparing brands there. On the springs & struts question, I'm using Racing Beat springs (linear springs) and a set of the the KYB AGX adjustable struts. I've been very happy with this combination; the KYBs have 4 adjustment settings up front, and 8 rear, and adjustments are easy to get to without having to take anything apart. I've found that with the KYB settings at the midpoints ("2" front, "4" rear), handling is crisp & predictable on the twisties/autocross, with a neutral balance. Ride quality & comfort is actually a big improvement over stock - but then my stock springs & struts had 15 years of wear & tear on them when I replaced them!

[r4itei]

update time! still cold here in toronto. but starting to hover around a few degrees above freezing. still chilly with windchill but quite sunny. so i decided to get this project started!

first off. pictures of how the car was when I got it.



Like I mentioned, the car was hit on the bumper, but otherwise, clean!


More pics of teh carnage...







But look how clean!






10th A.E.!




Black on black interior! =)




Only 117k km on the clock. Pretty low mileage to me. ^__^


All stock errthang!


Beauty!




Courtesy engine bay shot.


=D

[r4itei]

took the time this weekend to start working on this baby.

first order of business was to take the hood off. easy peasy.



then the fenders and front bumper!






so very clean!






sadly, gotta get its frame pulled. =(




good news is, the damage is only in the crumple zone. suspension should be fine. really hope it's not too expensive to fix. just cosmetic but i dont want gaps on my new bumper... there wont be a new bumper for at least a few months tho.

that hood is so light! holy shit. haha and i was reading some thread about how to take off the front bumper. i laughed when someone said resist the urge to cut it up and trash it. i ended up cutting mine up. didnt know the fenders had to be taken off first. haha oh well. i learned my lesson.

game plan next weekend is drain the oil and coolant and remove the busted front bumper reinforcement. ill probably label everything on the engine and the connectors connected to it. take apart as much of the engine accessories and such. get it ready to be pulled.

also now i gotta find that energy absorbing foam... oh well. good thing i got a few months to find all the front bumper stuff.

would you like moar pics? =) more to come.

[chibikougan]

Shit'll buff out...

[FC Zach]

Originally Posted by r4itei

haha and i was reading some thread about how to take off the front bumper. i laughed when someone said resist the urge to cut it up and trash it. i ended up cutting mine up. didnt know the fenders had to be taken off first. haha oh well. i learned my lesson.

Oh No! LOL the fenders can not be taken off first. The fender wells liners have to pulled to reveal the hidden hardware (which is a PITA to get to!) to remove the bumper, then you can remove the fenders.

[r4itei]

really want to work on the car today since it's such a beautiful day out. but i want a rest day. so ill just tide the craving by reading up on forums and such!

RTEK 2.1 should be on the way. =)

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Oh No! LOL the fenders can not be taken off first. The fender wells liners have to pulled to reveal the hidden hardware (which is a PITA to get to!) to remove the bumper, then you can remove the fenders.

haha yeah i found that out after. and yes they are a big pain in the ass to get to. but i wanted the fenders off anyway to see the chassis itself. as you can see, looks pretty immaculate. plus i was scared of scratching the fenders as i started taking stuff off the engine.

[FerociousP]

Denso Aftermarket Supra Pump

Supra kit (w/ Supra strainer)
950-0155

Pump only
951-0014

***Interestingly, 951-0014 is the same part number Denso uses for the FD. So, they are (at least in the aftermarket) the same pump.

[r4itei]

Update!

Didn't get much done this weekend, spent Saturday going to the Canadian International Autoshow. I didn't get to see the Zonda R or the One-77... >=(

Today, spent some time draining the oil/coolant and the remainder of where the front bumper stuff bolts to the frame.

Mostly spent time organizing my friend's parent's garage. Welp, me and my friends have pretty much taken over it, they don't seem to mind. Found new tools and organized it and such. Might need to invest in some speakers, better hangout spot than most places.

Wish I had my own mancave/garage.

- RTEK2.1 is in transit.
- Supra TT Fuel Pump Paid. Waiting on the guy to ship and the tracking number.
- Thinking of buying this Zeitronix ZT-2 Wideband... thoughts on this particular wideband?
- Next weekend, gonna start taking the longblock apart. I'll post pics. Also, I gotta buy a few bins to keep all the parts in. haha.

[r4itei]

So over the past few weekends, been working on it as much as leisurely possible.

Engine is out. New fuel lines are going in. Ended up cutting them. Frustrated me trying to take them off. Since it's gonna be fixed, gonna go with a parallel setup. The FPD will be banjo'd and an aftermarket FPR will go in. I want to upgrade the injuectors but we'll see how things go financially. Might just have the old ones cleaned...for the time being.

Stupid oil cooler lines seized on me, soaked them in PB blaster for a while and still nothing. Ended up kinking the hose and twisting it so I just cut it. Will be replaced.. anyone ever use the FD oil cooler on an FC? The rad gets air after the cooler and AC so not really ideal...

Taking apart the longblock, a fair few of the lines broke so it'll be replaced with silicone hoses. Takes forever to prep an engine for a pull. First time doing it... quite proud of myself.

Installed the RTEK2.1. Supra fuel pump is sitting at home. It'll go in soon. Gonna drain that fuel tank first and get it cleaned. Engine is sitting on the stand. Disassembly started last night, Rear iron is off but stopped for the day. Needed rest.

Pics on the way.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by r4itei

. anyone ever use the FD oil cooler on an FC? The rad gets air after the cooler and AC so not really ideal...

The stock FC oil cooler is one of the biggest used on a mass-produced automobile.
The problem is not the size...
(The FD ones are smaller.)
It's the way it's mounted.
The oil cooler just sits in the airflow in the stock location.
Air will mostly flow around it - not through it.
If you're able to give this stock oil cooler it's dedicated ducting, it'll actually OVERCOOL the oil.
This is why Mazda stuck a thermostat in it.

Don't reinvent the wheel.
If you need more oil cooling (really only needed if you track the car), then install dedicated air ducts for it.


-Ted

[Nismo]

Pb blaster is only going to make the head of the bolt slippery, the crush washers keep oil in, and they sure won't let oil in. If you are that worried about the oil cooler, relocate it, they are huge, or do a set up like TTT's with the Dual Oil coolers from a FD, and put in the brake cooling duct intake.

[r4itei]

Righto, update time!

Toronto weather is retarded. A week or two ago, weather was beautiful. 15 degrees outside, one Wednesday was even 26 degrees! Temps this weekend, -3, its screwed up, I want my summer!

I've started ordering parts for the build, things seem to be in great condition! Gonna go with the Pineapple Racing rebuild kit. The block is disassembled, housings look beautiful, as well as the irons and rotors. Cleaning starts this week. Rotors have a thick layer of carbon on 'em. Currently, they are soaking in kerosene. Gonna let it sit a day or two while I clean the other pieces.

After the cleaning phase is complete (should be done by Thursday I hope, stay after work a few hours to use the parts washer and supplies), I'm gonna start making sure everything is up to spec. They all look amazing so I hope they'll all still be in spec.

Talked to a body shop 2 days ago to see what my options are, for the dent up front. The guy said he'll call me sometime in the next week to take a look at the car and take some measurements.

Here I thought they just shoved it on a machine and pulled it straight. Haha, I'm an idiot when it comes to body work. Hopefully it won't be too expensive. =\

While I was soaking the rotors in kerosene today, took a look at the turbo for shaftplay, didn't feel a thing, but I did find cracks where it mates with the exhaust manifold. Took a look at the manifold as well and my heart sank. Took some pics to get some opinions on what options I can take...

Here's what I found on the turbo side of things...








And here's what I found on the exhaust manifold...


Thoughts/tips on actions to take?

[TXRota]

That's tight...my 10ae has those flawless leather seats too, I guess its jus that model lol