Mitchocalypse build V2

[ninesixtwo]

weld a downwards facing 90 on the rad

[Prodigy]

or maybe try switching the inlet/outlets... the top drivers (rhd) side of your rad had a allen plug that can be used to bleed the air out of the radiator

you can see it in this picture


just a thought anyways

J.

[RX SE7EN]

it'll be fine. Just take the radiator cap off, start the car, hold a funnel in the filler neck with coolant in it, let the car warm up and then cool down a few times when doing this.

Doesn't need to be rocket science, i've seen cars work fine with much worse setups than that.

[speedjunkie]

Get a Lisle funnel. Specifically designed for getting all the air out.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...&keyword=24680

[TitaniumTT]

Rookies!
Change everything to-16 or -20 AN lines, this makes building lines much easier and get's rid of the SS bendy stuff. I've seen some people get away with never having leaks, then there are others like myself that use hardlines and silicone clamps and fight leaks FORFUCKINGEVER! First year I had my car on the road after the swap in 2008 or 2009 I fought leaks all year. That following winter cut every nipple off and welded on some -16 bungs and never had another coolant leak again.

Now for the air pocket problem.... here's my suggestion - Build an AST.
I would mount it on the shock tower and make that the highest point. Run a line from the rad to the AST, and then from the nipple on the top of the WP housing to the AST as well. I went a little farther and ran one from the turbo as well to make my thermal siphon a little more effective. I had in the past a line running from the nipple on the rear housing back to the WP housing, and now I have that as the feed for the water cooled WG's. The return from the AST should be a -10 and plumbed into the heater core return into the lower portion of the WP housing.

Trust me, you'll appreciate this advice

I never have to burp my cooling system. Seriously.... never.... last week when we were leaving for DGRR I opened the AST, dumped in a gallon of coolant (and when I say dumped I mean as fast as I could pour it into the AST was as fast as the cooling system would accept it because all the air was being pushed out and into the AST from the three air bleeds - the rad, the WP housing, and the turbo cooling line), dumped in a gallon of dist water.... thought it would've been overfilled but it wasn't so I added maybe a quart of Poland spring water... not pleased but it was all we had... never burped it, just started it, checked for leaks and kept on going.

[TitaniumTT]

Nice work though Mitch! I like it.

That huge tank that is on the normal drivers side I'm guessing that's a tank for a mechanical water injection system?

[Mitchocalypse]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Rookies!
Change everything to-16 or -20 AN lines, this makes building lines much easier and get's rid of the SS bendy stuff. I've seen some people get away with never having leaks, then there are others like myself that use hardlines and silicone clamps and fight leaks FORFUCKINGEVER! First year I had my car on the road after the swap in 2008 or 2009 I fought leaks all year. That following winter cut every nipple off and welded on some -16 bungs and never had another coolant leak again.

Now for the air pocket problem.... here's my suggestion - Build an AST.
I would mount it on the shock tower and make that the highest point. Run a line from the rad to the AST, and then from the nipple on the top of the WP housing to the AST as well. I went a little farther and ran one from the turbo as well to make my thermal siphon a little more effective. I had in the past a line running from the nipple on the rear housing back to the WP housing, and now I have that as the feed for the water cooled WG's. The return from the AST should be a -10 and plumbed into the heater core return into the lower portion of the WP housing.

Trust me, you'll appreciate this advice

I never have to burp my cooling system. Seriously.... never.... last week when we were leaving for DGRR I opened the AST, dumped in a gallon of coolant (and when I say dumped I mean as fast as I could pour it into the AST was as fast as the cooling system would accept it because all the air was being pushed out and into the AST from the three air bleeds - the rad, the WP housing, and the turbo cooling line), dumped in a gallon of dist water.... thought it would've been overfilled but it wasn't so I added maybe a quart of Poland spring water... not pleased but it was all we had... never burped it, just started it, checked for leaks and kept on going.

This seems like a very nice add-on and possibly down the road i can see myself doing something like this. Right now the focus is getting it out of the garage though haha

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Nice work though Mitch! I like it.

That huge tank that is on the normal drivers side I'm guessing that's a tank for a mechanical water injection system?

Thank you and yes thats exactly what its for. You might recognize it from the original RICESP buildup




After a long as time of trouble shooting some issue (mostly spark but other things as well) .. its alive.

Theres not much a picture update i could post at this point so i have a few videos. First is just idling, second i try to rev it a bit. It cuts at 2k rpm which is (hopefully) because the timing is not calibrated properly and is retarded somewhat. Im having someone come over this weekend hopefully who can help me set this properly on the ecu then I can drive it and break in the engine.

I know for a fact there is a slight exhaust leak right at the v-band connection to the turbo which probably contributes somewhat but this car as it is is fucking retarded loud. I hope fixing that exhaust leak tones it down a bit. I know its in a garage but still.. just nutty.

[chibikougan]

Beauty Eh!

[RICE RACING]

The engine sounds like it does not have enough fuel going through it, so one simple test is wind up your fuel pressure regulator to 60psi from the ~45psi it set at now and take another video.... it should sound better.

Will need to be remapped to suit the street port as its was run on a stock 13B-REW donk as sent to you.

[Mitchocalypse]

Originally Posted by chibikougan

Beauty Eh!

EH?

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

The engine sounds like it does not have enough fuel going through it, so one simple test is wind up your fuel pressure regulator to 60psi from the ~45psi it set at now and take another video.... it should sound better.

Will need to be remapped to suit the street port as its was run on a stock 13B-REW donk as sent to you.

Okay I'll do this as well as check the timing and adjust if need be. AFR should be a clear indication of fuel as well, correct?

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

EH?




Okay I'll do this as well as check the timing and adjust if need be. AFR should be a clear indication of fuel as well, correct?

yes

[Mitchocalypse]

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

The engine sounds like it does not have enough fuel going through it, so one simple test is wind up your fuel pressure regulator to 60psi from the ~45psi it set at now and take another video.... it should sound better.

Will need to be remapped to suit the street port as its was run on a stock 13B-REW donk as sent to you.

I had a couple fellows on a local forum suggest that it might be running on one rotor so i decided to test that suggestion out.

So i checked and only the front rotor is firing. I pulled the plugs from the rear rotor and there is definitely fuel, and tested spark, which there is definitely spark. All I can say right now is that the timing needs to be calibrated and i'll be doing that in the morning with some assistance. That might? fix the issue.. I'm quite sure it was idling on 2 rotors at one point. The rpm increased slightly and it sounded way smoother. Of course i didn't check the wideband to know for sure, but after killing it and checking the plugs again and putting them back in, it wouldn't go back to supposed 2-rotor mode. This time i checked the wideband and it was like 19+ whenever i gave some throttle so yeah that tells me that the rotor wasn't firing. and it sounded the same as previous one rotor mode.

But i don't know why i'm wasting my time testing this stuff when I know the timing needs to be calibrated. Once thats done i'm sure it will be fine. 2-rotor mode sounded much more "normal"

[Mitchocalypse]

Well.. GG RX-7.
It's alive!

Friday when I got home I turned the OMP function on the ecu off and it revved properly. After that I fixed a small oil leak (loose fitting.. Whoops) and bled the brakes. Finished everything at like 11:30 and took it for a few laps around the block and everything seemed to be in check. Then as I was putting it away my faggy neighbour came and bitched cause he's a faggot.

Saturday, loaded the bumper in the car (JUST) fit to take to a friends shop for a slight mod in order to make it fit. Did that and it looks super sweet. (No pics cause I didn't have any time). It's still super dusty though cause it hasn't been washed in 2 years LOL.

Then Sunday morning I woke up to get back to m place in time for Father's Day brunch and on the highway it started to cut out so I pulled over.. Defs out of gas. LOL. In my defence the fuel gauge isn't plugged in. Ah well. So a friends came and rescued me, but not before I had the chance to go check some stuff out and fuck up the fuel pump wiring. So now I am on the side of the highway out of gas and my fuel pump doesn't have power. So I toocm the power wire of my boost controller which I made really long for some reason and used a key to saw off a section and just hot wired the pump directly to the battery. Great! Now everything is working again.

Until I get about a block away from my house, the coolant buzzer goes off so I quickly pull over and kill it. Pop the hood.. Yeah blew off a rad hose. LOLOL. So I just pushed it the rest of the way back and parked it in the garage cause I didn't really feel like doing anything else that day.

But anyways, 2 easy fixes, main point is that the car is on the road! Quick oil change and coolant fill and I guess fuel pump rewire and I'll be good to FSU on Friday night again.

[chibikougan]

Whoop!

[speedjunkie]

Excellent!