S5 TII quick experiment - help needed

[ElTeeFauci]

Honestly, that's how I felt about the info in this thread... due to the fact that nobody would help. *I* don't run a business though, and wouldn't gain from withholding information... I could see why you'd want to - though that may not be your reason. Spite alone is enough.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by ElTeeFauci

Honestly, that's how I felt about the info in this thread... due to the fact that nobody would help. *I* don't run a business though, and wouldn't gain from withholding information... I could see why you'd want to - though that may not be your reason. Spite alone is enough.

Anybody who has fucked with the stock BAC valve knows the answer to this question is:
It doesn't matter.

Don't assume that because you didn't get any (useful) info that no one knows what you're talking about.

The "frequency" is limited by the physical limitations of the solenoid valve itself - minimum (effective) frequency, maximum (effective) frequency, dwell.
The number that used to pop up a lot (for us Haltech users) was 33Hz.
I've found that 33Hz was too low a frequency and caused the stock BAC valve to "chatter" on the engine.
Increasing the frequency above 100Hz - 150Hz caused this noise to disappear.
So, thus, I would recommend anything above 100Hz or what your ears can handle.
(As a general rule, don't run maximum duty cycles over 85% - 90% on an electromagnetic mechanical solenoid, or more effectively, 90% - 100% doesn't change much.)

I don't have any experience with that MegaSquirt crap, but if you're talking about a superimposed frequency onto a duty cycle parameter (0% - 100%) - which is sounds like you're trying to do - then it's just a matter of getting the cold start min, warm start min, frequency, and max for each.
Simple.
You can do this on your own by experimentation.
You don't need to be EXACT versus stock #'s.
Using incremends of 10% should get you pretty darned close and running very nicely.


-Ted