AZRR CYM FD Build Coming Together - Page 7

cozmo kraemer · 03-16-2009, 01:08 PM

I think you restrict flow through your radiator a little bit by fully boxing the back side like that. I can't see the 'true' rear opening of the radiator from the pics, but from my recollection, your fans have to be pretty dang close to that panel.

I would at least louver it (if possible) so that your fans have more area in which to push air out of the radiator.

I know a lot of people overlook the rear side of the radiator when addressing cooling concerns. In a stock FD the rear side of the radiator is almost completely blocked by the battery, intercooler/ducting and intake. This is the primary reason for its failure to cool the car properly. Why open up the whole back side of the radiator (with a vmount) and then close it off (even partially) again?

Never the less. Glad things are coming along. Let me know when this thing is rolling.

RCCAZ 1 · 03-16-2009, 02:40 PM

Thanks for the observation Cozmo. IMO, the side panels just ensure that air keeps moving towards the rear of the shroud. I can always take them off if I find the setup to be restrictive. With this car, I've found that blocking off as many air gaps as possible to get more "direct" flow pays huge dividends. The only time it may be detrimental is in stop and go traffic when the lack of ram airflow limits the design's ability to move air. But even then, one flick of the fan switch and voila.... instant airflow. I know that you and I talked about the possible detrimental effects of "reverse flow" if the system were too restricted. That's why I kind of like your louver idea.

We'll see.....

Thanks again for your suggested improvements.

cozmo kraemer · 03-16-2009, 04:14 PM

Side panels are great! I meant the bottom panel that sort of covers the back of the rad/fans.

If you will be cutting sheet metal soon let me know, I will come over and share my $.02

But it is pretty much worth exactly that!

cozmo kraemer · 03-19-2009, 10:49 AM

I dont know if I have your email... but the oil pressure wire is sourced from connector x-12 (larger of the two grey connectors up by the diagnostic terminal). Oil pressure is the grey with red strip wire. This just connects directly to the oil pressure sending unit that is mounted over by the oil filter pedestal. I was told NOT to use teflon tape as the sender grounds with its connection to the housing. That is why the threads on it are pipe thread so it seals propperly just with the threading.

This is the part that was really surprising to me... The Japanese car had standard tread on all the sensors, the American engine (LS1) had metric thread on all the sensors like M14x1.5 I think. I had myself a laugh at that one.

RCCAZ 1 · 03-19-2009, 01:55 PM

Thanks Cozmo. I'll try it tonight. PM'd you my email address.

albertomg · 03-19-2009, 02:18 PM

I agree with Cosmo. I cut a bunch of small squares into my stock undertray and noticed a difference in temps both on track but particularly in stop/go traffic.

In stop/go traffic, the vents in the undertray it resulted in a small difference in cooling temps (~1 degree C) but a slightly bigger difference in air temps and related to heat soak.

Also, I recommend using some of these hose clamps on the silicon coolant hoses:
http://www.breezeclamps.com/ct.htm
I had tried using some expensive, high quality, worm type hose clamps and they would loosen over a few heat cycles. These Breeze constant torque clamps work incredibly well and never loosen up.

RCCAZ 1 · 03-22-2009, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albertomg

I agree with Cosmo. I cut a bunch of small squares into my stock undertray and noticed a difference in temps both on track but particularly in stop/go traffic.

In stop/go traffic, the vents in the undertray it resulted in a small difference in cooling temps (~1 degree C) but a slightly bigger difference in air temps and related to heat soak.

Also, I recommend using some of these hose clamps on the silicon coolant hoses:
http://www.breezeclamps.com/ct.htm
I had tried using some expensive, high quality, worm type hose clamps and they would loosen over a few heat cycles. These Breeze constant torque clamps work incredibly well and never loosen up.

Thanks for the real-world feedback both on the undertray and clamps. I may switch to something like the clamps you're specifying. Had my first real-world driving experience yesterday when I took the car on her maiden voyage to our club picnic (30 miles round trip). All went well and temps were extremely cool, especially given the fact that I was running without the undertray. Temps can only get better once I get that completed and installed.

RCCAZ 1 · 03-27-2009, 07:53 AM

Just added a new fuel pump last night (Bosch 044) in place of my Walbro. The Walbro was working OK, albiet my fuel pressure regulator needle would oscillate 2-3 psi while the car was running.

Fuel pressure is now ROCK solid. Wow, that Bosch unit looks like your stuffing a little beer can in your fuel tank, but man, can that sucker pump! Now, once we get her broken in we shouldn't have any fuel starvation issues

Just wish I would have taken a pic of the pump before install so you guys could see the size difference!

cozmo kraemer · 03-27-2009, 12:45 PM

Bosch 044

RCCAZ 1 · 03-27-2009, 02:27 PM

Thanks Cosmo. Yup, that's it. Dwarfs the Walbro.

classicauto · 03-27-2009, 02:36 PM

What'd you do for the pump sock? I know there's a bit of an issue with makigna piece that isn't going to restrict inlet flow to the pump. Chris ludwig hada beautiful bell mouthed piece he advocated. Just curious what you found or used.

RCCAZ 1 · 03-27-2009, 03:05 PM

Actually, Glen and Tom at AZRR fabbed up the sock for me, but from what I remember before install, it appeared to be nearly identical to what Cosmo shows in his post.

cozmo kraemer · 04-06-2009, 01:24 PM

So did you install your wideband and start breaking this thing in?

I moved up to North Scottsdale so I am a ways away now. I could still help you out on the weekend if you need me to. Just let me know a few days in advance...and Saturdays work better for me than Sundays. If I help you with wiring and electronics can you help me fix my bumper gap?

Your car's gaps are PERFECT!

RCCAZ 1 · 04-06-2009, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cozmo kraemer

So did you install your wideband and start breaking this thing in?

I moved up to North Scottsdale so I am a ways away now. I could still help you out on the weekend if you need me to. Just let me know a few days in advance...and Saturdays work better for me than Sundays. If I help you with wiring and electronics can you help me fix my bumper gap?

Your car's gaps are PERFECT!

Ahhhh... I'd like to say yes, but unfortunately I'm not there yet. Pulled the IC and piping out yesterday to get it to my polisher. Also pulled the DP and started cutting it up to repair my WG clearance and fitment issues. Hoping to have it all back together by this weekend, which would be a great time to wire the WB. What you're proposing is definitely a fair exchange. I'll call you later this week to coordinate a time on Saturday!

RCCAZ 1 · 04-26-2009, 08:07 AM

OK everyone,

Here are some final pics. Finished up the undertray, although I'll probably pull it later next week to get it powdercoated.

Thanks to Tom and Glen from AZRR for riding with me last night to the Scottsdale Pavillions for the Saturday evening car show. Tom rode shotgun with me and datalogged and made adjustments to my map the entire way. With Tom richening up several areas of the map, I now feel that I can safely drive it through the break-in period. Here are some pics from yesterday with the completed engine bay, side skirts installed, new rear diffuser, etc, etc. Thanks again guys!!! The only thing left to install is my WI setup.

On the way to the event, ambient temps were around 84F and my intake air temp was 29C, water temps were between 84 and 86C. Coming home post event, ambient temps had dropped off into the upper 70s with my intake air temp dropping to 26C and water temps in the same range (84-86)

03-19-2009, 02:18 PM	#6
albertomg Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Bay Area CA Posts: 91 Rep Power: 18	I agree with Cosmo. I cut a bunch of small squares into my stock undertray and noticed a difference in temps both on track but particularly in stop/go traffic. In stop/go traffic, the vents in the undertray it resulted in a small difference in cooling temps (~1 degree C) but a slightly bigger difference in air temps and related to heat soak. Also, I recommend using some of these hose clamps on the silicon coolant hoses: http://www.breezeclamps.com/ct.htm I had tried using some expensive, high quality, worm type hose clamps and they would loosen over a few heat cycles. These Breeze constant torque clamps work incredibly well and never loosen up. __________________ 93 Vintage Red R1 Power: Street Ported Motor, 99 Twins, V-mount, DP>SMB cat/MP> RB cat back, PFC, 1300cc secondaries, Fuel Pump, ACT clutch, RB lwfw, etc Steve Kan tuned - 310rwhp at 10PSI Suspension: Tripoint custom valved Koni + Ground Control coilovers, Eibach sway bars, SuperPro bushings, Corner Balanced and accurately aligned Brakes: RacingBrake 4 corner BBK SSR Integrale 17"x9" +45, Dunlop Star Specs 255/40 Last edited by albertomg; 03-19-2009 at 02:28 PM.

03-27-2009, 07:53 AM	#8
RCCAZ 1 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 288 Rep Power: 18	Just added a new fuel pump last night (Bosch 044) in place of my Walbro. The Walbro was working OK, albiet my fuel pressure regulator needle would oscillate 2-3 psi while the car was running. Fuel pressure is now ROCK solid. Wow, that Bosch unit looks like your stuffing a little beer can in your fuel tank, but man, can that sucker pump! Now, once we get her broken in we shouldn't have any fuel starvation issues Just wish I would have taken a pic of the pump before install so you guys could see the size difference! Last edited by RCCAZ 1; 03-27-2009 at 10:20 AM.

03-16-2009, 01:08 PM	#1
cozmo kraemer The Newbie Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 16 Rep Power: 0	I think you restrict flow through your radiator a little bit by fully boxing the back side like that. I can't see the 'true' rear opening of the radiator from the pics, but from my recollection, your fans have to be pretty dang close to that panel. I would at least louver it (if possible) so that your fans have more area in which to push air out of the radiator. I know a lot of people overlook the rear side of the radiator when addressing cooling concerns. In a stock FD the rear side of the radiator is almost completely blocked by the battery, intercooler/ducting and intake. This is the primary reason for its failure to cool the car properly. Why open up the whole back side of the radiator (with a vmount) and then close it off (even partially) again? Never the less. Glad things are coming along. Let me know when this thing is rolling.

03-16-2009, 02:40 PM	#2
RCCAZ 1 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 288 Rep Power: 18	Thanks for the observation Cozmo. IMO, the side panels just ensure that air keeps moving towards the rear of the shroud. I can always take them off if I find the setup to be restrictive. With this car, I've found that blocking off as many air gaps as possible to get more "direct" flow pays huge dividends. The only time it may be detrimental is in stop and go traffic when the lack of ram airflow limits the design's ability to move air. But even then, one flick of the fan switch and voila.... instant airflow. I know that you and I talked about the possible detrimental effects of "reverse flow" if the system were too restricted. That's why I kind of like your louver idea. We'll see..... Thanks again for your suggested improvements.

03-16-2009, 04:14 PM	#3
cozmo kraemer The Newbie Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 16 Rep Power: 0	Side panels are great! I meant the bottom panel that sort of covers the back of the rad/fans. If you will be cutting sheet metal soon let me know, I will come over and share my $.02 But it is pretty much worth exactly that!

03-19-2009, 10:49 AM	#4
cozmo kraemer The Newbie Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 16 Rep Power: 0	I dont know if I have your email... but the oil pressure wire is sourced from connector x-12 (larger of the two grey connectors up by the diagnostic terminal). Oil pressure is the grey with red strip wire. This just connects directly to the oil pressure sending unit that is mounted over by the oil filter pedestal. I was told NOT to use teflon tape as the sender grounds with its connection to the housing. That is why the threads on it are pipe thread so it seals propperly just with the threading. This is the part that was really surprising to me... The Japanese car had standard tread on all the sensors, the American engine (LS1) had metric thread on all the sensors like M14x1.5 I think. I had myself a laugh at that one.

03-19-2009, 01:55 PM	#5
RCCAZ 1 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 288 Rep Power: 18	Thanks Cozmo. I'll try it tonight. PM'd you my email address.

03-27-2009, 02:27 PM	#10
RCCAZ 1 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 288 Rep Power: 18	Thanks Cosmo. Yup, that's it. Dwarfs the Walbro.

03-27-2009, 03:05 PM	#12
RCCAZ 1 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 288 Rep Power: 18	Actually, Glen and Tom at AZRR fabbed up the sock for me, but from what I remember before install, it appeared to be nearly identical to what Cosmo shows in his post.

04-06-2009, 01:24 PM	#13
cozmo kraemer The Newbie Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 16 Rep Power: 0	So did you install your wideband and start breaking this thing in? I moved up to North Scottsdale so I am a ways away now. I could still help you out on the weekend if you need me to. Just let me know a few days in advance...and Saturdays work better for me than Sundays. If I help you with wiring and electronics can you help me fix my bumper gap? Your car's gaps are PERFECT!