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Old 09-17-2009, 02:23 PM   #1
classicauto
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Good stuff sean!

On the idemitsu pre mix:

Normal ratios for typical TCw-3's are 1oz/gallon. Idemitsu's is 50% less because the "oil is better/designed to operate at that ratio" Thats the summation I got when I asked ID about the reasons behind it.

Its more expensive, but you use less (per gallon) because you need less
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Old 09-17-2009, 05:47 PM   #2
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Depends on the type of oil I guess. I was using QuickSilver Premium Plus 2-cycle and the Idemitsu is actually cheaper as well. Best of both worlds. Then again, the QuickSilver is marine, and anything marine is going to be more $$$$


Nicely done Sean. I had the same issue, about 100* hotter in the rear while underload. I added 2% fuel but haven't been back in to check the results.
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No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:48 AM   #3
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ah... nothing like computer mumbo jumbo late at night. its almost as good as coffee in the morning....
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Old 09-18-2009, 06:53 AM   #4
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just wait Kyle.....you will be there soon enough!


Got some tuning done last night and also order one of the FAST ACTING AIT sensors from Dudemannn. Hopefully this new sensor will help in having a more accurate tune. I get a lot of heat saturation when in stop and go and hopefully this keeps things more linear
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Old 09-18-2009, 06:04 PM   #5
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Fast acting AIT sensor you say? Link perhaps? max operating temp? I need something that I can measure pre-intercooler charge air temps with. Just becuase

Quote:
Originally Posted by FC3S Murray View Post
BTW...Brian, thanks for the advice on the oil temps and DAMN that was some milage in that short time. You had me all down and out on myself.
Yeah it was, got my Mobil bill yesterday - $461.xx is alot of mileage in a month
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DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 09-20-2009, 05:52 PM   #6
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oh I see.
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Old 09-20-2009, 05:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
Fast acting AIT sensor you say? Link perhaps? max operating temp? I need something that I can measure pre-intercooler charge air temps with.

Here you are bro. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...=sensor&page=6


This weekend I am currently working on some custom .o25'' ducting that travels from my intercooler-by the oil cooler- to the koyo.

I have been doing it all by hand with some sheet metal snips and some small 3/8 self tapping sheet metal screws. lol

it is coming along just have to put some sealing foam/ soft rubber around the edges that will cause chaffing against the intercooler and radiator cores. Two more brackets to fabricate and then I will test her on tues.
This should take all the air coming through the intercooler and guide it right to the oil cooler and rad. This "should" work great since the radatior shroud I bought years ago and the new improved fan shroud from corksprt have improved air flow. I just NEEDED something to keep the air from dissipating out the bottom of the car after it passes the intercooler
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Old 09-20-2009, 10:34 PM   #8
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Well ducting is done. Like I said, kinda ghetto( I hate sub-par shit on my FC) BUT hopefully will be functional. I would have like to do it with rivets and spot welded a couple of the brackets but I work with what I have.

All the screws are secured on the backside with a retaining bead of clear RTV and all the corners are sealed with weather stripping foam. The front and rear of the duct has about 1.5'' of foam so when it is bolted it is very air tight and compressed. Along the sides was a little more difficult. Some small areas for a little air loss BUT NOT MUCH.

I hope my oil cooler line doesn't get too hot on the foam

All in all I am pleased and wil be much happier once I see some temps drop, Lets hope for a high 80* F day tomorrow so I can test compared to last week.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg duct.jpg (96.9 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg duct 2.JPG (84.8 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg 0920091931[1].jpg (91.4 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg downsized_0920091932[1].JPG (86.9 KB, 19 views)
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Last edited by FC3S Murray; 09-20-2009 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 09-21-2009, 08:08 AM   #9
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Nicely done Sean A'int working with that stuff a bitch? I built mine out of .063 5052 AL. I figured it would take me a weekend........ nope, 2 and a few hours every day in between. Pissed me off. Looks awesome and jusding by the one oil cooler line that can be seen, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
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DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 09-21-2009, 10:31 AM   #10
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Thanks man for the kind words considering I still think it is ghetto-fabulous. It really was a bitch, most time consuming part was going back and forth taking measurements and constantly re-installing it to ensure proper fitment when a new bracket or hole was to be installed/drilled.

I REALLY wish I would have waited and had Sheet-Metal up here at my work take a gander at it and fabricate something nice. Either way, it would have only been better looking.
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:38 PM   #11
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Well after driving around for about an hour and constantly charging the intake to atmospheric pressure and cruising around 3k constant, my oil temps never ran above 165* F.
It would go back to about 178*F sitting and heat soaking but the moment I got above 25mph it would drop pretty fast.

SAME goes for my SWEET new AIT sensor. That SOB would read 45*C after heat soaking and then immediately after driving it would drop to 36*C. After about 2 mins @ 30 mph she was reading 29* C steady and actually went down to 27* C at 50 mph.

Good shit. Now lets see what an 85* F day will do tomoorow temp wise.
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Old 09-21-2009, 10:37 PM   #12
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Nicely done man.... funtion > form but if you can make it look good in the process

I need to get some more information on this fast actin AIT sensor, and do some more testing on mine. Like you did, heatsoak the intercooler and then go for a rip down the highway. Also need to get that coolant probe out of the charge pipe, the thing is not giving any useable data whatsoever. I need to find an AIT sensor that can handle 300+F

Are you using any supports on that big ass belly pan? If I ever get around to building mine it'll be out of .063 5052 and I'm a little concerned that it'll move and sing and "bong" at speeds
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-The Angry Stig-
DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:59 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
Are you using any supports on that big ass belly pan? If I ever get around to building mine it'll be out of .063 5052 and I'm a little concerned that it'll move and sing and "bong" at speeds
You know, I thought about putting an 1''x2''x22'' support out of the left over material across the belly pan but once I bolted all the sides up it really had no play waht so ever. I think the 1.5'' of sealing foam on the front and back act as leverage and cause the belly pan to have a natural concave bend to it. EVEN pushing down on it from the inside takes quite a bit force. It is very fucking snug.

I got up to about 90 mph last night and if my damn FC wasn't so loud maybe I could have heard something. Only way to check is with a wind tunnel I guess.


BTW, I drove the car to work this morning and it was about 56*F ambient and my AIT sensor was reading 18*c most the drive. I had to lean up my 10*C to 30*C Air Intake Temp-to-Injection table because I have never seen those low temps. Even this time last year with my last motor, the lowest reading I would get after some driving was about 24*C and I believe that was on 45* F mornings. SOOO good it makes you wanna slap your mamma!


So Brian... why do you need a AIT sensor that can handle 300* F ??
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Old 09-26-2009, 12:01 AM   #14
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Gave her a wash and wax tonight. mnmmmmmmmm smooth

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Old 09-30-2009, 06:56 AM   #15
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Cool man! Thanks for the clear up. I will have to check with no hose around 2000 miles.
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