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Old 06-08-2016, 01:57 PM   #1
FC Zach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
Take the weatherstripping off the firewall under the hood
Nice! Thank you!
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Old 06-08-2016, 01:59 PM   #2
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And done!
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Old 06-08-2016, 02:17 PM   #3
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Now go for a cruise and see if the heatsoaking decreases....
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
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I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
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I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 06-09-2016, 09:48 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
Now go for a cruise and see if the heatsoaking decreases....
You're a freaking genius mang! ! Underhood temps dropped and stayed at a consistent temp. IAT dropped as well. In the pics below I used a clock from the casa that has different channels to check temps so I mounted the sensor in the bay (just like I did yesterday) which is the *116 reading. The Ambient reading is 77/78.

Short drive before interstate


Interstate


On way home
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Old 06-08-2016, 02:20 PM   #5
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I'll do that tomorrow, it's bedtime now.
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Old 06-08-2016, 02:30 PM   #6
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I don't understand.... it's 15:35
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-The Angry Stig-
DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 06-08-2016, 02:32 PM   #7
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I'm a nightcrawler
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Old 06-09-2016, 10:24 AM   #8
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Cheers!

Looks like it knocked about 10* out of the bay?
__________________
-The Angry Stig-
DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 06-09-2016, 11:07 AM   #9
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prob pretty close to the best you'll see without more insulation of the pipe from the engine/rad air... of some sort of positive pressure ducting setup going to front of bumper.

now to get it tuned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-09-2016, 11:43 AM   #10
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now to get it tuned!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yay! ! !
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Old 06-10-2016, 12:09 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
Looks like it knocked about 10* out of the bay?
Yeah

Quote:
Originally Posted by FerociousP View Post
prob pretty close to the best you'll see without more insulation of the pipe from the engine/rad air...
Placing order now for Mazdatrix's heatshield. As soon as I pick up some good wrap I cover the header too.


Quote:
Originally Posted by FerociousP View Post
of some sort of positive pressure ducting setup going to front of bumper.
"with getting fresh air to that box, try not to overthink it." ditto
I do get positive pressure with the current setup. . . with and without the rear of the brake cooling duct plugged, obviously better when plugged however I'm optimizing the flange I made that's screwed on the brake duct to direct air better so the brake duct isn't plugged.

I am only doing that because I don't want to replace the factory duct. . Is it the best? no, but it's the route I'm taking
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Old 06-10-2016, 07:53 AM   #12
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Good to know about the weatherstripping. I have a vented hood so I'm guessing that will serve the same purpose. I didn't know Mazdatrix made an exhaust heat shield. Too bad it doesn't look like it'll work with my exhaust manifold so I'll have to make my own someday.
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Old 06-10-2016, 08:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FC Zach View Post
Yeah
Kewl!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FC Zach View Post
Placing order now for Mazdatrix's heatshield. As soon as I pick up some good wrap I cover the header too.
[IMG]http://www.mazdat

I am only doing that because I don't want to replace the factory duct. . Is it the best? no, but it's the route I'm taking
Come on Zac, build that ish yourself!

Quote:
Originally Posted by infernosg View Post
Good to know about the weatherstripping. I have a vented hood so I'm guessing that will serve the same purpose. I didn't know Mazdatrix made an exhaust heat shield. Too bad it doesn't look like it'll work with my exhaust manifold so I'll have to make my own someday.
Negative... it works the opposite way. Removing the weatherstripping allows ambient air to get forced INTO the bay. Common misconception especially among the hondah crowd. At speed, the joint between the hood and the windshield is a high pressure area, removing the weatherstripping allows air to get forced into the bay. It then follows the path of least resistance and gets pulled through the tranny tunnel.

Stationary, sure, heat is going to rise so those ridiculous 2" gaps with spacers they add will relieve some of the heat from the bay because heat rises. However, as said before, at speed it's forcing air into the bay.

A vented hood on the other hand works in the opposite way. Assuming basic aeronautics are followed, the rise in the hood will create a bit of a low pressure zone and pull air from the bay. Of course this isn't the case on my car because the hood is ducted straight to the intercooler. The only purpose my drop vent hood serves is to keep the intercooler as chill as possible.

Last time I was @ LRP with the FC the ambient temps were about 104*. My charge temps of course were in the 300's, IAT's were about 120. Something something ram air something something vented hood something something expensive core.

Also of note.... my radiator fan literally broke to pieces that day... ripped it out (again literally with my bare hands and no tools) and got back on the track... coolant temps never got above 180* when it was 104* outside and tracking the car Aero can be fun!
__________________
-The Angry Stig-
DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 06-10-2016, 02:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
Negative... it works the opposite way. Removing the weatherstripping allows ambient air to get forced INTO the bay. Common misconception especially among the hondah crowd. At speed, the joint between the hood and the windshield is a high pressure area, removing the weatherstripping allows air to get forced into the bay. It then follows the path of least resistance and gets pulled through the tranny tunnel.

Stationary, sure, heat is going to rise so those ridiculous 2" gaps with spacers they add will relieve some of the heat from the bay because heat rises. However, as said before, at speed it's forcing air into the bay.

A vented hood on the other hand works in the opposite way. Assuming basic aeronautics are followed, the rise in the hood will create a bit of a low pressure zone and pull air from the bay. Of course this isn't the case on my car because the hood is ducted straight to the intercooler. The only purpose my drop vent hood serves is to keep the intercooler as chill as possible.

Last time I was @ LRP with the FC the ambient temps were about 104*. My charge temps of course were in the 300's, IAT's were about 120. Something something ram air something something vented hood something something expensive core.

Also of note.... my radiator fan literally broke to pieces that day... ripped it out (again literally with my bare hands and no tools) and got back on the track... coolant temps never got above 180* when it was 104* outside and tracking the car Aero can be fun!
Makes perfect sense to me (engineer). I'm familiar with cowl induction but for whatever reason I didn't put 2 & 2 together. My vented hood is arranged in a similar manner with the radiator and shroud except they're not connect at the moment. I just have the shroud exit pointed in the direction of the hole in the hood.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FC Zach View Post
I have to disagree somewhat with the illustration mainly in the rear bumper area. .

For example if one was to have shitty taillight seals, wouldn't exhaust pull into the car like any other vehicle. Like mine does LOL
Yeah, that part confuses me. I've owned a lot of hatchbacks and SUV's and the rear window/hatch always gets covered crap. Vortices coming off the sharp corner tend to curl the air back around. I don't have bad taillight seals but is it possible the fumes are only entering when the car is stationary?

Last edited by infernosg; 06-10-2016 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 06-10-2016, 01:41 PM   #15
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Learn something new everyday Brian. I was sure that was a low pressure area, either way it works.

As for the heatshield. . I don't have a metal break and the fabricator I know would likely charge me ~$50 like he did for the heatshield. I also don't have that hardware that Mazdatrix uses so basically I couldn't build that for what they're charging.
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