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#1 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
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Thanks Cheebs. At least it has a nice flat surface to bolt the lower cradle to when I get that finished up.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#2 | |
⊙⊙
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great Falls
Posts: 1,258
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That is a little handy...
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#3 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
Posts: 1,012
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upper mounts, Part III
So... I screwed up again. The upper mounts are off by 1/2" on the driver's side and the passenger side was off by 3/4 - 1". I could have sworn I had them right that time, but it was not to be. I did have enough adjustment to get them where they needed to be, but they were at the very end of the adjustment and then some. Not comfortable running it that way so here we go again. Trying to get an accurate measurement with very few squared up surfaces is a pain in the ass. So I need to cut them out one more time. Getting a little smarter this time and building a stand alone box for the mounts. That way I can tack it in place and move the whole thing when I get the alignment equipment back on it.
![]() upper A arm mount part 3 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr Also did a little modification while the mounts are out. I didn't care much for the camber adjustment as it tended to move too far while adjusting and it was a pain to bring it back. So I drilled out the front holes and welded 1/2 - 20 nuts on them then put a cap and nut on the other side as well. That way I can run a fine thread 1/2" bolt in each side to push the mounting block back and forth for fine adjustment. It will also help lock it in place more securely. Cross my fingers and hope I get it right this time. ![]()
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 Last edited by GySgtFrank; 01-30-2014 at 08:15 PM. |
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#4 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Front Royal, VA
Posts: 487
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Measure once weld 4 times?
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#5 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
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or keep cutting and welding until you get it right.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#6 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Freedom Land
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Because dumb great bend marine
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This is going to tear |
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#7 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#8 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
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OK. Plan 436. I ran out of letters a ways back and had to start numbering them.
To fix the problem of being at the end of my adjustment range (and still being .2 degrees off in caster side to side). I came up with putting an adjustment rail on top of my existing camber adjustment rail. This necessitated raising the mounting point and opening up some more room to the rear. I'm using stop bolts on both sides of the clamping rails so I hopefully get no movement from my adjusters when under load. This is in addition to the bolts that clamp it all together. I have been a little concerned to make doubly sure I get no movement once I get the @#$%^ thing adjusted to the correct spot. The bottom cradle will also be able to move forward and back using a bolt and stop nuts on the bracket at the front of the lower rail. The clamping bolts on the lower rail will be slotted. It SHOULD fix my adjustability problems. I need to weld in a plate to close up the top of the mount with the upper hoop and put some gusseting across it so that the mount is rock steady. Not the most elegant solution, but I will have full fine adjustability to dial it in, as well as the ability to make large adjustments when I decide to do something stupid. Such as playing with my wheelbase. Me actually getting the car to DGRR is starting to look pretty iffy, since things are refusing to cooperate. Regardless of whether the little (insert Peter's favorite word here) gets there or not, I plan to be there this year. ![]() plan 436 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#9 | |
Get off my lawn!!!
Join Date: Jun 2011
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![]() Aww-HELL-yeah!!! We'll have: A Wild GUNNY Appeared! Unable to Flee... ![]()
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'94 Touring - Cursed '96 NA Miata '14 Mazda3 Hatch '14 Aprilia RSV4 R |
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#10 |
Test Whore - Admin
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Right Behind you son
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Hey Gunny.... one more night of insomnia, although I'm happy to see you're making progress. Such an undertaking man.... it's looking really REALLY sick.... something I've never seen done before to that extent on a little first gen... can't wait to see it done.
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-The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. -Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED- |
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#11 | |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
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![]() I figure if I can stuff enough tire under there and get the settings right I can save on brake pad replacements, 'cuz we just won't brake fur no stoopid corners. I'll have brakes too though, just for those damn suicidal deer. Passenger seatbelts will be a requirement so I don't lose anybody. Windshields are expensive. ![]()
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#12 |
My minds tellin' me no...
Join Date: Feb 2008
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This is one sick FB.
Are you gonna make to DGRR? LOLOLOLOLOLOL
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1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5 |
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#13 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stafford, Ks.
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Well I probably could have had it at least together and running in time if I wasn't so picky about having it work just right. I have rushed too many projects in the past to meet a deadline, and have always regretted it. I am chomping at the bit to get it running again though. I was hoping not to have it down this long, but sheiss happens.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#14 |
Professional Stick Poker
Join Date: Feb 2011
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Since we were having the discussion of whether an oxygen acetylene torch was still useful, or just old school BS, I thought I would show what you can do with the "Torch" that can't be done with the new fangled toys. Questioned by ta Bawbers of all people.
The gussets are 3/8 plate and the reinforcing covers are 1/8" plate. None of the covers are actually straight. They had to be heated to cherry red along the bend lines and beat into place with a hammer. Welding as you go and doing a section at a time. I also had to put in a piece of tubing on the driver's side for a pass through for my brake line and wiring harness. It's getting a bit tight over there for room. Then made a cut on the extra left on the brake master cylinder side, heated and beat into shape to form the bottom of the pocket in my wheel well for the master cylinder. I love my plasma cutter, but there are some things it just won't do. ![]() upper arm perch 3 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr ![]() upper arm perch 4 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr ![]() upper arm perch 5 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr As you can tell, lots of grinding for clean up left to do.
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1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. ![]() 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 |
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#15 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Rockville MD
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Looking good Kevin
![]() You got just over a month to finish it. ![]() |
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