Interior Door Panel Repair Thread - Page 2

speedjunkie · 08-08-2010, 02:21 AM

Oh OK, gotcha.

Yeah so far the bolt has been holding up, but I'm not sure it's had enough abuse yet to say it's really been tested. I'm still kinda iffy on the handle being used to shut the door haha.

Good luck with this next round of fixing, hopefully you won't have to repeat it. I get very annoyed having to do things over and over haha.

adrock · 10-30-2010, 09:07 PM

I'm about to do a similar fix on my busted passenger handle, but I'm curious if anybody thinks JB Weld or epoxy putty like this stuff would do just as good? I've got a LOT of busted plastic to repair.
Thanks.

speedjunkie · 11-04-2010, 08:23 PM

Everything I've ever used JB Weld on I've never had a problem with again. I love the stuff.

Sideo · 02-14-2011, 12:52 AM

great thread, this is the reason i joined rcc

the spyder · 02-26-2011, 11:24 PM

Most of the broken passenger door handles I repair end up being reinforced with 1/4" steel rod, welded to the top and bottom mounting points on the chassis (where it screws in from the factory). The handle is then centered and filled with a high strength epoxy and allowed to cure for 48 hours. Never had one come back in 4 years.

prrex4ever · 03-02-2011, 10:58 PM

Great write up, thanks. I know that this will come in handy sooner or later lol.

bbade · 01-02-2013, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbade

This third fix will work as I am done playing around

. I have ordered ABS rod from McMaster Carr and am going to make one heck of a robust stud. I will outline the process and post it here sometime next week.

My apologies for never finishing the write up. I logged in today for the first time in months (years?). The FD is currently sitting on jack stands in the garage awaiting a new coat of paint in the engine bay. Anyway, back to the write-up. I don't have detailed instructions as it has been quite some time since I finished this project; however, here goes.

The ABS rod worked out very well. Using a lathe I machined the rod down to the diameter of the original stud or just a bit thicker. I left a nice base at the bottom for ease of bonding.
DSCF4140.jpg
Make sure you cleanup the bonding area (you can see the nylon attempt mentioned earlier).
DSCF4139.jpg
Put some Plast-Aid under the post, then reinstall the plastic piece in the door panel to line everything up. After this initial bond sets up reinforce with additional Plast-Aid.
DSCF4144.jpg

In summary I am more than happy with the result. Hope this helps, happy new year!

10-30-2010, 09:07 PM	#17
adrock The Newbie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Tampa Bay, FL Posts: 4 Rep Power: 0	I'm about to do a similar fix on my busted passenger handle, but I'm curious if anybody thinks JB Weld or epoxy putty like this stuff would do just as good? I've got a LOT of busted plastic to repair. Thanks. __________________ My sex machines: -'94 Rx7 R2, Pettit TKT: SOLD -'85 Rx7 GSL-SE: SOLD -'90 Rx7 GTU, stock: SOLD -'93 Rx7 base: my current baby

08-08-2010, 02:21 AM	#16
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 20	Oh OK, gotcha. Yeah so far the bolt has been holding up, but I'm not sure it's had enough abuse yet to say it's really been tested. I'm still kinda iffy on the handle being used to shut the door haha. Good luck with this next round of fixing, hopefully you won't have to repeat it. I get very annoyed having to do things over and over haha.

11-04-2010, 08:23 PM	#18
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 20	Everything I've ever used JB Weld on I've never had a problem with again. I love the stuff.

02-14-2011, 12:52 AM	#19
Sideo The Newbie Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 20 Rep Power: 0	great thread, this is the reason i joined rcc

02-26-2011, 11:24 PM	#20
the spyder Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 38 Rep Power: 0	Most of the broken passenger door handles I repair end up being reinforced with 1/4" steel rod, welded to the top and bottom mounting points on the chassis (where it screws in from the factory). The handle is then centered and filled with a high strength epoxy and allowed to cure for 48 hours. Never had one come back in 4 years.

03-02-2011, 10:58 PM	#21
prrex4ever Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 274 Rep Power: 17	Great write up, thanks. I know that this will come in handy sooner or later lol.