Oil Cooler - Page 2

infernosg · 08-08-2017, 07:59 AM

Yep, as everyone has said the FC oil cooler is considered to be one of the best. I wouldn't worry about it unless you're having problems. If you're that concerned you can do what I did and make better ducting for the front of the car. In factory form air can pass over the oil cooler. I made a duct out of aluminum that divides the air coming in from the front of the car:

Google Photos has been weird so let me know if the image doesn't work.

I do recall reading some Improved Touring (IT) guys running dual FC oil coolers in series/parallel, but that seems like overkill to me.

project86 · 08-08-2017, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by infernosg

Yep, as everyone has said the FC oil cooler is considered to be one of the best. I wouldn't worry about it unless you're having problems. If you're that concerned you can do what I did and make better ducting for the front of the car. In factory form air can pass over the oil cooler. I made a duct out of aluminum that divides the air coming in from the front of the car:

Google Photos has been weird so let me know if the image doesn't work.

I do recall reading some Improved Touring (IT) guys running dual FC oil coolers in series/parallel, but that seems like overkill to me.

Wanna make me one of those? I assume you are using that with the stock front bumper?

project86 · 08-08-2017, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

I'm glad it's already been mentioned that you'd be downgrading. . even if you did a twin set-up (aside from the extra failure points and places to leak, like Pete said), the two combined still wouldn't suffice when compared to the OE part. Especially without going the extra mile to build duct work to each to even have a fighting chance.

For what it's worth, (IIRC) my oil temp is typically ten or more degrees cooler than engine temp when driving.

I'm really glad to know that the stock one is so good. I guess I'll just look into getting braided lines for it and call it a day.

djmtsu · 08-08-2017, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by project86

I'm really glad to know that the stock one is so good. I guess I'll just look into getting braided lines for it and call it a day.

If your factory lines are in good shape, and not leaking, don't replace those either.

project86 · 08-08-2017, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djmtsu

If your factory lines are in good shape, and not leaking, don't replace those either.

But im going to.

FC Zach · 08-08-2017, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djmtsu

If your factory lines are in good shape, and not leaking, don't replace those either.

But the braided lines look better

Pete_89T2 · 08-09-2017, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by project86

But im going to.

Why? Don't fix what isn't broke or you'll be back here with another problem

There's nothing wrong with the stock lines, and if they are in good shape, they will remain leak free and work as well as any aftermarket lines you could buy or build yourself for many years. I would just give the stock lines a very thorough cleaning and inspection, and go from there:

1. Are the crimp fittings corroded excessively (more than just a little surface rust), and if you try to rotate the crimp fitting around the hose, does it rotate at all relative to the hose? If answer is NO on both, stock lines are good.

2. Is the rubber hose material still pliable, with zero evidence of swelling or any unusually brittle/hard or mushy/soft spots that you can feel when you squeeze the hose anywhere along its length? If it passes this test, the stock lines are good.

t_g_farrell · 08-09-2017, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete_89T2

Why? Don't fix what isn't broke or you'll be back here with another problem

There's nothing wrong with the stock lines, and if they are in good shape, they will remain leak free and work as well as any aftermarket lines you could buy or build yourself for many years. I would just give the stock lines a very thorough cleaning and inspection, and go from there:

1. Are the crimp fittings corroded excessively (more than just a little surface rust), and if you try to rotate the crimp fitting around the hose, does it rotate at all relative to the hose? If answer is NO on both, stock lines are good.

2. Is the rubber hose material still pliable, with zero evidence of swelling or any unusually brittle/hard or mushy/soft spots that you can feel when you squeeze the hose anywhere along its length? If it passes this test, the stock lines are good.

I agree to disagree on this one. The lines are old enough at this point that its worth the money to get new ones. And the RB ones do look purty!

project86 · 08-09-2017, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t_g_farrell

I agree to disagree on this one. The lines are old enough at this point that its worth the money to get new ones. And the RB ones do look purty!

I'll at least check them. If they aren't leaking then I wont prioritize. I can tell you whats not leaking though.. my oil pan....

speedjunkie · 08-09-2017, 04:10 PM

I have dual 19 row Setrab coolers on my FD and I've seen as low as 109F in the winter and usually about 140-150F in the summer. WAY too cold, I know. But I tested the thermostat and it works, and I made sure it was mounted to flow correctly. Not sure what the deal is.

I was always under the impression that the FC cooler wasn't that great. Good to know otherwise. I'll leave it on my TII (that I haven't started building yet).

djmtsu · 08-10-2017, 08:37 AM

40 year old lines on both Cosmo's holding strong.

The only issue I have with aftermarket cooler lines (like RB) is they rely on an adapter. Just another potential failure point. And some people have been unfortunate enough to strip or crossthread trying to install them.

project86 · 08-10-2017, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djmtsu

40 year old lines on both Cosmo's holding strong.

Are YOUR 40yr old lines still holding strong?

djmtsu · 08-10-2017, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by project86

Are YOUR 40yr old lines still holding strong?

Thankfully YES!!!

Too well. Ask the wife..

t_g_farrell · 08-10-2017, 09:42 AM

Ok, but you may want to get some replacements before DGRR next year, so when it blows on the mountain you can swap in the new ones. Just sayin'.

If you were to cut one in half and squeeze it you will see that its swollen and cracking apart.

project86 · 08-10-2017, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t_g_farrell

Ok, but you may want to get some replacements before DGRR next year, so when it blows on the mountain you can swap in the new ones. Just sayin'.

If you were to cut one in half and squeeze it you will see that its swollen and cracking apart.

I'll probably replace them before then. I replaced them promptly on my first FC and never had any issues. I dont anticipate an issue with doing SS lines this time either.

08-08-2017, 07:59 AM	#16
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA Posts: 811 Rep Power: 16	Yep, as everyone has said the FC oil cooler is considered to be one of the best. I wouldn't worry about it unless you're having problems. If you're that concerned you can do what I did and make better ducting for the front of the car. In factory form air can pass over the oil cooler. I made a duct out of aluminum that divides the air coming in from the front of the car: Google Photos has been weird so let me know if the image doesn't work. I do recall reading some Improved Touring (IT) guys running dual FC oil coolers in series/parallel, but that seems like overkill to me. __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

08-10-2017, 08:37 AM	#26
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 22	40 year old lines on both Cosmo's holding strong. The only issue I have with aftermarket cooler lines (like RB) is they rely on an adapter. Just another potential failure point. And some people have been unfortunate enough to strip or crossthread trying to install them. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

08-10-2017, 09:42 AM	#29
t_g_farrell Waffles - hmmm good Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Huntersville, NC Posts: 757 Rep Power: 0	Ok, but you may want to get some replacements before DGRR next year, so when it blows on the mountain you can swap in the new ones. Just sayin'. If you were to cut one in half and squeeze it you will see that its swollen and cracking apart. __________________ 1980 GS stockport, Fat Nikki, RB Dual Facetfuel pumps, Holley regulator, RB Street port exhaust, 2GDFIS, MR2 MK I electric fans, 2G strut bar, relayed fans, lights and fuel pump, LEDs Project Fat Nikki Budget 12A rebuild Video setup < $30.00

08-09-2017, 04:10 PM	#25
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 20	I have dual 19 row Setrab coolers on my FD and I've seen as low as 109F in the winter and usually about 140-150F in the summer. WAY too cold, I know. But I tested the thermostat and it works, and I made sure it was mounted to flow correctly. Not sure what the deal is. I was always under the impression that the FC cooler wasn't that great. Good to know otherwise. I'll leave it on my TII (that I haven't started building yet).