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Old 04-29-2016, 03:05 PM   #1
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Old 04-29-2016, 03:27 PM   #2
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Thank you Bae! I even included dielectric in the clips..
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Old 04-29-2016, 03:31 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chibikougan View Post
Thank you Bae! I even included dielectric in the clips..
youbetcha!
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Old 05-02-2016, 07:28 AM   #4
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got the trans mounts in the mail, short throw/bushings, inner shift boots and new knob will be here today. I'll probably go ahead and put that in. Now I'm just waiting for the new trans brace to come in and then ill do the mounts and see how everything feels.

Since I've started driving it leaks seem to be getting slightly worse so it looks like ill need to do the oil pan gasket and brace next.
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:27 AM   #5
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Don't bother with the gasket those things are useless. What you do is pull the motor... Drop the oil pan and let the car sit overnight so ALL the oil that's going to leak down... leaks down. Than re-seal said pan with The Right Stuff.... make sure you use the right stuff... and it's actually called, Right Stuff. Make absolutely sure everything is clean and wipe it down with some acetone. Put that shit together and let it cure for at least 24 hours in the warmth before adding oil.
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No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 05-02-2016, 03:23 PM   #6
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He forgot to add BDC's preferred material for engine mounts...... a block of scrape 2x4 from home cheapot.

You all laugh because you think I'm joking. He actually defended it.
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DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
If we're talking about comparing it to the stock OEM ISOLATION type mount, then it's garbage...

Remember the old adage?
If it's too good to be true (i.e. cheap), then it is...

The stock type mount (this goes for the engine and trans mounts), are two studs attached to two plates of metal with a rubber sandwich in between them.
This allow both compression and pull forces to be absorbed by the mount itself.
All these cheap-ass vendors who sell this crap built these mounts that can only handle compressor forces; they do not isolate the pull forces, as you're asking against the bolt / fastener.
What does this all mean?
You get increased vibration through this cheap-ass mount...
It could possibly damage something else, as now your mount does not isolate tension forces...

You get an inferior mount, because they are too cheap to build a proper mount...
Anyone can get a block of (insert fav...rubber, polyurethane, nylon, UHMW plastic, aluminum, hockey puck) and drill a hole in it and slap on a nut and bolt...


-Ted
Fair enough. I had Banzai poly mounts in my last car. I actually really liked them. I didnt get too much extra vibration from them surprisingly. But they discontinued them. I guess if the Himni version ends up being bad i can always go back to stock or mazdaspeed version. But like i said, i really based the decision to buy more poly mounts off of my last experience with them.

I'll always value your words Ted.

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Originally Posted by FC Zach View Post
Ha Ha, that summed it all up right there in one concise answer!
I guess you're still running all factory mounts then Zach?

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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
He forgot to add BDC's preferred material for engine mounts...... a block of scrape 2x4 from home cheapot.

You all laugh because you think I'm joking. He actually defended it.
Im not laughing.... after all I've read about him I'm not surprised....


On another note.. i just finished the install of my short shifter. Yummy

I forgot how much i liked it. and it feels SOOOOOOO much better than the stock one. although its much stiffer. I guess i just need to drive it an break it in some. Or maybe add some more gear oil to the shifter hole? any suggestions on that?
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by project86 View Post
I guess you're still running all factory mounts then Zach?
I am, definitely all new components including the crossmember but as far as whether or no I got the stiffer version, I cant remember.

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On another note.. i just finished the install of my short shifter. Yummy

although its much stiffer. I guess i just need to drive it an break it in some. Or maybe add some more gear oil to the shifter hole? any suggestions on that?
Yes, you should have added oil to the shifter housing.
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:04 AM   #9
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Quote:
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I am, definitely all new components including the crossmember but as far as whether or no I got the stiffer version, I cant remember.
ok cool. Yeah who knows... i may end up right there with you. We'll see. My guess is that since I'm not driving the car every day, even if it does wind up vibing more than i remember I won't be bothered.


Quote:
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Yes, you should have added oil to the shifter housing.
Shoot.. it looked like it had enough in it. Looks like I'm making a trip to buy gear oil today then. Luckily its not hard to take apart all of that.
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:42 AM   #10
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Shoot.. it looked like it had enough in it. Looks like I'm making a trip to buy gear oil today then. Luckily its not hard to take apart all of that.
It doesn't need to be overflowing, there just needs to be some in there. . I assumed that with the cars age it would have been dry
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:27 AM   #11
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May just be the feel of them, I have the same shifter in mine. . you have new upper and lower bushings matched with decreased leverage so it is definitely gonna feel different than what most 2nd gen owners are used to which is a floppy sausage lol
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:31 PM   #12
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I'm not sure if impressed or embarrassed that I have a somewhat impressed that I have parts of the fsm of all three gens memorized
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DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
I'm not sure if impressed or embarrassed that I have a somewhat impressed that I have parts of the fsm of all three gens memorized
Im impressed for you?
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Old 05-04-2016, 08:37 AM   #14
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So i just got to thinking... I'm making a parts list so i can keep track of the stuff i need/want. Since the GTUs has the turbo suspension components wouldn't that mean that id need to buy Coilovers and such for the turbo car? Or does are the mounting points the same for turbo and non turbo cars?
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Old 05-04-2016, 12:37 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by project86 View Post
So i just got to thinking... I'm making a parts list so i can keep track of the stuff i need/want. Since the GTUs has the turbo suspension components wouldn't that mean that id need to buy Coilovers and such for the turbo car? Or does are the mounting points the same for turbo and non turbo cars?
Yep, as TTT said, it's the same...
In fact, the base models had the "special" suspension and brakes.

GXL is the "loaded" model, and the turbo (i.e. Turbo II) is a GXL + turbo engine.

The 1998 "GTU" + 1989 / 1990 "GTUs" are just GXL models minus all the heavy (i.e. powered) shit and some special features (i.e. no sunroof, but amazingly there are some that did come with sunroof).
The 1986(?) and 1987 has a "Sport" model available, and this was a precursor to the 1988 "GTU."

The brakes are standard across the board with the exception of the base models; this is for the 4-pot fronts with vented disc and 2-pot rears with vented disc.
This big brake or heavy-duty brake package were on all GXL, turbo, and convertible models + the abovementioned 1988 "GTU" and 1989 / 1990 "GTUs" models.

Brakes on base models - 1986 / 1987 "base" + 1988 "SE" - had the 2-pot(?) front with vented disc and single-pot rear with NON-vented disc; these were obvious due to the 4-lug wheel lug pattern.
In 1989 - 1991 base models, all FC's were 5-lug wheel lug pattern, but the base models had different brake calipers and discs.
(Forgot some of the specifics here...)

Let's see how long before the corrections come flying in...


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