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Show your rotary car build up. Show off your Rotary Car build! |
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#76 |
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Ok so tonight I have done the following...
put the tb elbow on and the coupler on got the intercooler piping on the drivers side on and the bov mounted got the radiator in thermostat in coolant added a couple hoses on got the oil feed one got the coolant feed on got the coolant return on I need the following yet put the afm on get a new bolt for the t-stat housing get a radiator cap get a vac hose for brake booster to uim get some plastic put back on here are pics of what I have done tonight ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#77 |
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Ok well I got the last few things on.. checked my fluids etc and of course nothing can go off perfectly..
We pulled the fuel pump fuse cranked the engine to build oil pressure and 3 seconds into it the upper fuel rail sprung a leak... found out the banjo bolt was loose.. so we realised there was a leak and that we had the wrong fuse pulled... so we cleaned the engine off with water and tried again this time on purpose with the pump on to see if any other leaks happen What do u know crank a few seconds and bam the lower rail leaks.. I tighten that bolt and pull both the fuses and crank till oil pressure comes up.. once that works we put the fuses in and crank 2 it took like 2 seconds and the car started and ran just fine... we had it die because the throttle adjustment was not set right... we turn the adjuster screw in so it will idle on its own and it fires right back up... I let it run for about 45 minutes or so and it just smoked and smoked and smoked... it still smokes if I start it.. Not sure how long it will smoke for but I know with the crisco, gear lube and engine oil used during the engine build process I figured it would smoke for a while.. after a while I turned the ca and found the low oil level light was on.. so I check the oil and it is fine... a little later it hit me.. I may have grabbed the n/a dipstick instead of the turbo dipstick... sure did so after adding another 2 liters it is just under full The next thing I noticed was I had lots of bubbling in the cooling system so after that cooled down I pulled the bleed valve on the side of the radiator neck (again) and refilled the cooling system.. this time I am confident that it could be all done up.. now the biggest problem.. the batter wont hold a charge and it really is to big now with the ic pipes run .. tomorrow I will get another battery, get it started back up and let it run for a while longer.. hopefully the smoke will go away... Anyways I got 2 short videos.. NO SOUND SORRY.. but u can see the horrific amount of smoke... as for the smoke shooting from the turbo in the engine bay well the downpipe was only held on by one nut, and I did not have a gasket on it because i only had one nut holding it on.. so one that is all tightned down I should be all set there.. ![]() ![]() Last edited by SpooledupRacing; 04-26-2008 at 05:07 AM. |
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#78 |
Clean S4 Nutswinger
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling Heights, MI
Posts: 485
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Congrats!!
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-Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress. ![]() |
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#79 |
Guest
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is that amount of smoke or that long normal.
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#80 |
The Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 19
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
Yep
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...p_breakin.html 6) Be prepared for smoke…there is assembly lube in the engine, which will be burned out in the form of smoke. Expect this to get into your exhaust and smoke can remain for up to 8 hours afterwards until it is all burned out slowly. |
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#81 |
Guest
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Thank you sir.. I feel much better now...
tonight I go for the first test drive |
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#82 |
Guest
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Well I have an external oil leak at the turbo, and it is still smoking now onto hour 3 of the break in.. blue smoke and lots of it...
The intercooler piping is dry, but I have oil just dripping out of the bottom of the turbo somewhere.. I cant figure out where... all the lines are tight... I just don't know.. I think tomorrow I will pull the turbo off and recheck the mating surfaces of the turbo.. tighten it back down, check all of the oil drain bolts and make sure they are tight... make sure the oil drain tube is god and tight.. and go form there... THIS SUX... I have about 20 miles on the motor it runs very well, pulls very good, but cant be driven yet, not with the smoke and the leaking oil... |
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#83 |
Guest
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ok I pulled the turbo... the leak was coming from the oil drain.. easy fix...
here is what I see when I pulled the turbo off and started the car... the first video is of the car just starting up then reving, unfortunatley the towel it was sitting on covered up the lens when I started to rev the car . the second video is of the car just idling.. I stuck it down by the opening and then pulled away so u could see the smoke coming out of the engine bay so are we thinking maybe the oil control ring spring may be moving and causing a leak.. or is this not that bad since I only have about 2 hours of running on it... the liquid u see by the manifold is coolant.. I don't see any liquid oil coming out of the manifold.. and both the outlet of the turbo was dry and the cat was dry... Vid 1 ![]() vid 2 ![]() |
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#84 |
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Here is what the plugs look like after about 80 miles and 4-5 hours of running
Here you go Kevin. I did this this morning after the car had set overnight Front plugs (leading plug on left, trailing on right) ![]() ![]() ![]() Rear plugs (leading on left, trailing on right) ![]() ![]() ![]() What if anything does that tell you? |
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#85 |
Pirate
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Central IL
Posts: 1,323
Rep Power: 19 ![]() |
mm, not an expert by far, but it looks like you got an oil leak in the front, since the plugs are so fucked...
and the rears look nice and dry..not perfect, but much better. Are these new plugs that you just put in right after the rebuild? Damn.. the fronts are scaring me.... but then I AM a bit of a n00b. ![]()
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Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! |
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#86 |
Guest
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the fronts do look a touch wet but I don't think that bad...
and the turbo and manifold is clean |
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#87 |
Guest
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ok leak solved...
There was a bolt head on the compressor housing that was hitting the drain pipe. This was causing the drain pipe to not sit flush on the cartridge causing a leak anytime the car was running... I will be putting the turbo back on tonight and going for a nice drive... if everything is cool she will be on the road full time tomorrow.. Total invested 13.00 in gaskets, labor FREE (had a show I do business with check it out and fix it for me) |
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#88 |
The Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 27
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
uh....wasup!
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