Diary of a Madman; TitaniumTT's see you @ DGRRXI RE-REbuild

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

You can save different maps now, but on the dongle. As far as I know, the ecu still doesn't store them. Not a big deal though really... I can save all the config files to the laptop.

You still have to buy extra shit to make it work..... that's pretty lame

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

Make sure that RTek is for a turbo engine, not NA

Originally Posted by vex

I think if I showed TTT my engine bay he would rage and make me his little midget bitch... Though I think I'm bigger than him.

I might... I just might... but you have good reason... it's in development.... when it's all done though I'm going to come down there, tear it all out and say - NOW DO IT AGAIN!!!!! with paint and powdercoat and ceramic coat and well.... you already got that Raychem so at least that's one thing that you don't have to do over I wanna see it damnit

[TitaniumTT]

Next on the Chopping block was the radiator. When I first had Griffen build me this rad, they built it with 1.5" inlet, 1.75" outlet becuase someone didn't read carefully (not a big deal and to Griffins credit, they wanted me to ship it back to them on thier dime, send me a new one with the proper size on it. I ended up just hitting up my tub of ky (seriously) and smearing it on a stock hose and on the barb, adding a little heat and it slid on and never leaked, so I didn't see the need to send it back, but kudo's to Griffin for their service, couldn't be happier) ANYWHO.... I never liked the way I had it plumbed. It just bothered me. It didn't leak, but getting the t-bolts on was a pain and it just wasn't very visually appealing... so out came the hack saw.

OH NOES!!!!





After that it was pretty easy to weld on the -16 bungs. Griffin warned me about transferring the welding heat to the epoxy on the sides. The answer was to just fill the rad with water. What you DON'T want to do though is fill it with water and then seal it off. When you're welding, the heat from the welding heats the water. This causes it to expand. If you're unlucky enough you get a blowout and hot water in your face...... and no this never happened to me

When Griffin originally built this rad they added a 1/4" female NPT bung on the passenger side tank for the AST... however they put it in the wrong spot. Not a big deal, just add another one higher though, on the adjacent plane where the top of the rad will be. This is the second fitting that is connected to my AST. You can see it on the top right in the pic. You can also see the -6 Male bung lower left that I use for flushing and draining. It works very well and again, no hose clamps.... I CAN'T STAND IT when people plug unused coolant fittings with bolts and RTV... some may or may not remember this rant... you probably would as I had almost completely lost my voice and was getting rather worked up about it



And the rad mounted..... damn that looks alot better than what I started with

[Mazdabater]

Shoulda tig welded it lol.

[mazpower]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

yeah yeah my dumbass didn't fully tighen a cap after checking the coolant and it got lost somewhere in Virgina doing a burn-out infront of some car with the license plate FRSH-SXY I NEED to find a pic of this car... it was epic...

Ask and ye shall receive...

[MaczPayne]

Always improving, wonderful! Definitely giving me ideas about my future setup

[TitaniumTT]

How well does practice line up with theory?

[TitaniumTT]

maybe...... Tonight might be front brakes... or I may touch myself and go to sleep

I just spent a bunch of money on dies to work with my new 12T something or other I picked up yesterday and have yet to assemble

[EJayCe996]

I hate you... I hate you for handing me the fastbrakes flyer... I hate you for causing me to add this to my spreadsheet.

[TitaniumTT]

what's your addy? I'll send you some FastBrakes bottle openers and LED keychains that I found in the very bottom of the box....

Love them brakes... just don't like the pads.... must fix that issue and soon

[mazpower]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Love them brakes... just don't like the pads.... must fix that issue and soon

The pads went out on the Miata...not even 8 months old with just one track day on them. Fortunately it started scraping right down the street from the house...talked to Miguel and bought some $40 street pads from Wilwood to hold me over. Before I track the car again, its getting slotted rotors and Carbotech pads. Wilwood pads suck giant floppy donkey dick!

[EJayCe996]

Originally Posted by mazpower

The pads went out on the Miata...not even 8 months old with just one track day on them. Fortunately it started scraping right down the street from the house...talked to Miguel and bought some $40 street pads from Wilwood to hold me over. Before I track the car again, its getting slotted rotors and Carbotech pads. Wilwood pads suck giant floppy donkey dick!

sweet, because carbotechs are what I've been running since I swapped in the 4 pistons and I'm probably never going to use anything else... ever.

[mazpower]

Originally Posted by EJayCe996

sweet, because carbotechs are what I've been running since I swapped in the 4 pistons and I'm probably never going to use anything else... ever.

I'm a HUGE Carbotech fan...been running XP10s and XP8s in the FD for years now. Had them in my AW11 too. I used the Wilwood pads cause they came with the kit, I asked for the E-production pads. They don't feel as good on the track and absolutely suck on the street, in comparison to the XP10s.

[fc3sfreak415]

beautiful car im currently building up a 13B-RE motor for my vert and ive got a carbed fb as a daily lol

[TitaniumTT]

Which compound are you running in the FD now? Cuz the lockup was quick! I need basically the weakest compound they have to give me the most modulation and highest rear bias.

[mazpower]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Which compound are you running in the FD now? Cuz the lockup was quick! I need basically the weakest compound they have to give me the most modulation and highest rear bias.

I prefer XP10 front XP8 rear. In a non ABS system like you're running, either the XP10 or 8 will give you great modulation and excellent bite. 10 is good for the street and phenomenal once warmed up...8 is excellent for the street and doesn't dust as much. Don't stagger them on your setup, run the same pad between front and rear and you'll get the rear bias you're looking for.