Fenda's uber garage Engine Build

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

It's not a rotary engine party until somebody says "we'll finish that next time..."

Truer words were never spoken... Lol!

We had a pretty successful weekend all things considered. We put some LONG hours into the car on Saturday, getting it started at 6:30am on Sunday and finally calling it quits at 7:30 for some much needed rest.

Stuff left to do is patch a tiny hole in the radiator core, put the clutch fork where pity belongs (it fell out of alignment), and add a return port into the cooling system for the AST to drain to.

I'll get pics up when I get home from work and have a moment.

[TitaniumTT]

FRA-497104 *3 for the AST
SUM-220071 *1 for the rad
SUM-2200075B *1 for the return line in the tank (used from my personal stash)

and then the -4 fittings needed for the line from the rad to the AST, I'm thinking a straight on the rad, and a 90* on the AST given where it's being welded

grumble grumble Crutchfield grumble grumble Norm

[Fendamonky]

Gotcha. How much of that do you need delivered to the shop in order to finish the AST?

Yeah, yeah... I gotta call him again... I was fucking DEAD last night after work.. Did you get stuff worked out smoothly after I left on Sunday?

[TitaniumTT]

Just have everything delivered to the shop and I'll toss it in the box when I ship the AST out..... no sense paying shipping twice for 2 different addy's

Can't imagine why one would be sooooo tired

Yeah, please lemme know... I'm heading to RI Friday night and need to figure out this ongoing vehicle saga that makes me want to punch babies in the face and rape 7 yo's like red headed step children....

J0o has txt about that...

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

FRA-497104 *3 for the AST
SUM-220071 *1 for the rad
SUM-2200075B *1 for the return line in the tank (used from my personal stash)

and then the -4 fittings needed for the line from the rad to the AST, I'm thinking a straight on the rad, and a 90* on the AST given where it's being welded.

Ok, so I'm looking at the stuff on Summit right now, why the SUM-220071 on the radiator? Wouldn't it make more sense to have a male bung welded on? That way we could just use a standard -4 AN hose end..

Also, I had originally ordered 2x of the FRA-497104's, they came in the same box as the rest of the -4 stuff. I'll double check in the boxes downstairs to be sure we didn't accidentally overlook them.

And I'm kinda thinking of just going ahead and -16ing the radiator right now, as the shop will already be welding on it... If I do that than I think I'll make two separate orders, one for coming here, and one going there.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Ok, so I'm looking at the stuff on Summit right now, why the SUM-220071 on the radiator? Wouldn't it make more sense to have a male bung welded on? That way we could just use a standard -4 AN hose end..

Because it make pressure testing the rad that much easier.

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Also, I had originally ordered 2x of the FRA-497104's, they came in the same box as the rest of the -4 stuff. I'll double check in the boxes downstairs to be sure we didn't accidentally overlook them.

Did not see anywhere

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

And I'm kinda thinking of just going ahead and -16ing the radiator right now, as the shop will already be welding on it... If I do that than I think I'll make two separate orders, one for coming here, and one going there.

If you're gonna do that, you're also going to need the -16 AN fittings welded onto waterpump housing as well. And if you're going that far, you might as well get rid of the T-stat housing and build a combo t-stat housing/ AST tank as opposed to the hooky way it's going to be mounted now.

Personally, I would do it that way..... oh wait... I am doing it that way on the 'vert I would've done it that way on the FC but didnt' really have the room because VMIC.

[WE3RX7]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I would've done it that way on the FC but didnt' really have the room because VMIC.

I've seen you fit more in less space

[WE3RX7]

Oh and sorry to hear about that rad leak... what caused the hole? I assume it's easily repaired....

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

I've seen you fit more in less space

Thanks....

Ask my woman

Actually.... you should see the muffler I just got in for the FC... I ordered it when I ordered all the shit for the 8 exhaust because it was special order, figure I'll get it now. 4" inlet, dual 3" outlets on a 5"x11" oval and the thing is 28" long. Keep in mind the TII tranny is about 32" long... that will be fun to fit

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

Oh and sorry to hear about that rad leak... what caused the hole? I assume it's easily repaired....

teflon hands... looks like a screwdriver fell on it.

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Because it make pressure testing the rad that much easier.

The guy doing the repair said it wouldn't make any difference, so I think I'll just get the male fitting and remove one potential point of failure.

Originally Posted by Brian

Did not see anywhere

Hmm, that's really odd... They are on my invoice in the box and also online. Fuck it though, it's all of $10 which is fuck-all when compared to engine build/tune labor and GODDAMNED FUCKING $17.00 FUCKING LIQUID TEFLON from those cunts (smile Peter ) at the 'merica speed shop (asshats are LITERALLY across the street from a huge base and they refuse to give a military discount)...

So yeah, I'll order 4x of the -4 male weld on fittings: 2x for your cache, 1x for my AST, and 1x for my radiator.

Originally Posted by Brian

If you're gonna do that, you're also going to need the -16 AN fittings welded onto waterpump housing as well. And if you're going that far, you might as well get rid of the T-stat housing and build a combo t-stat housing/ AST tank as opposed to the hooky way it's going to be mounted now.

I do really like the idea of ANing the radiator... However I think that may be a better project for later down the road. I think it may be more prudent to just get he going with what we currently have. My hose setup right now works, it's just not as sexy. I'll survive with the non-sexy, yet functional, for the time being.

However.... If you wanna cut up and weld into the AST/t-stat housing while it's up there... That I wouldn't protest too much.

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

Oh and sorry to hear about that rad leak... what caused the hole? I assume it's easily repaired....

I'm thinking the radiator hole came from a dropped flathead screw driver somewhere between the hours of 2am and 6am, lol. Shit is a little hazy from that part of the night, but the radiator was pulled from where it was stored and put into place around that time.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

teflon hands... looks like a screwdriver fell on it.

Teflon hands??? And yeah, I agree with your guestimate, lol. The damage is at the wrong angle for it to have been road debris.

[JL1RX7]

Levi, it sucks that screwdriver hit were it did. Little to left or right no damage at all. Glad you found a place to get it fixed. Let me know if you need a hand with the slave cylinder. I have done more than a few over the years.


In a thread jack Brian what type of coils did you say to get for the 8? Time for something new for DGRR.

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Levi, it sucks that screwdriver hit were it did. Little to left or right no damage at all. Glad you found a place to get it fixed. Let me know if you need a hand with the slave cylinder. I have done more than a few over the years.

Yeah, friggin' Murphy's law, lol. I really did luck out in finding a place nearby, most of the shops I called that "Specialize in radiator repair" kept insisting on knowing what kind of car I had, then ran away screaming when I explained what needed fixing. My guess is that they were expecting a leaky hose or plastic end tanks, and just wanted to charge a premium for a bullshit replacement.

I just might take you up on that offer since I don't recall having done it myself before. I'll get the car off the ground again and give it a shot myself first though.

[Fendamonky]

Anyway... Pic dump time!! I think the last pictures posted are from when we were still putting the oil pan on.

So here's a shot with the pan and engine mounts on. I've been holding on to these stock mounts for several years now. I went from damaged stock mounts to a set of Banzai's poly mounts (which were nice) then I switched over to a pair of solid aluminum mounts (which were not so nice) when the turbo side banzai mount began to warp.

So here I am, back to good condition stockers: I wanted to see what all the fuss was about



Garfinkle's Oil Pan Brace fit on like a charm!



And everything sitting there, patiently waiting to be installed..



We got the engine in and the turbo fitted:



When I bought my copper clad exhaust nuts I accidentally bought the wrong size So I had to put the manifold on with generic autozone nuts. Once the correct ones got in I swapped them out though.



And there she sat... patiently waiting:



I completely scrapped all the factory hard lines, and made new fuel lines from the tank to the injectors and back again. I used -8 lines to feed the engine, and -6 on the return. I went with the FuelLab filter that, following my buddy Vlad's suggestions, I mounted to the rear subframe between the fuel tank and the subframe, just above the differential.

Sorry for the shitty pictures, there wasn't much space to get a decent angle from:



Here's the inlet side of the filter:



I used a scrap piece of aluminum to mount my filter onto, then I cut a couple slits into the plate and used worm clamps to attach it to my subframe.

WAAAYYYY too much rust on that mounting arm for my diffuser I'll really need to pull everything out, brush it down, and coat it all one of these days..



Some pics of the feed and return lines running under the car:





The engine bay finally starting to look like an engine bay again:



We opted to go with nylon braided fuel lines for the majority of the routing inside the engine bay. I'd hate for any fuel line flex to cut through stuff...



Also, some last minute fitting/routing changes sent me off to the "local" performance shop about 20 miles away... 5x -6 fittings (in the wrong color, lol) cost me well over $160, but nobody ever said that doing a badass build (the RIGHT WAY) was cheap...

Here's a look at the parallel fuel lines routed the way we wanted them, just waiting on the UIM and FPR. The steel braided line is the return line going from the FPR back to the tank.



Those are Brian's hands, probably around 3am, making sure my AST lines are fit correctly in the two highest points in the engine (we'll be adding a third AST feed line in the top of the radiator).



Speaking of the radiator... Here's the little tiny hole that brought the operation to a halt, having us all wait until yet another weekend to take this little project for her first drive.





And.... The (mostly) finished project!






We started the car (she fired right off on the first try :happy_dance:, yay!) at about 6:30am on Sunday after beginning work at about 11am on Saturday. Needless to say it was a LOOONNNNGGGG weekend! But, with the engine firing right up and sounding very nice I'd say it was worth it.

Ideally there will be one more session which (unless I do convert the radiator to -16 lines right now) will entail lots of grabassery, some light mechanical work, and initial road tuning (you GTFO of here Mr. Murphy!!!)

[2gslse]

Looking good maybe next time I can make it down in my car.(its getting close)

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

So yeah, I'll order 4x of the -4 male weld on fittings: 2x for your cache, 1x for my AST, and 1x for my radiator.

Hold off on the order till we figure out this AST/Tstat combo dealie...

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I do really like the idea of ANing the radiator... However I think that may be a better project for later down the road. I think it may be more prudent to just get he going with what we currently have. My hose setup right now works, it's just not as sexy. I'll survive with the non-sexy, yet functional, for the time being.

If you're thinking about doing it, do it now while its out and dry... no sense pulling the whole front end off again, draining the coolant, going through all that shit and welding up modifying the AST to fit, spending moneys on fittings twice etc etc etc etc.... j0o do it ONCE

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

However.... If you wanna cut up and weld into the AST/t-stat housing while it's up there... That I wouldn't protest too much.

Yeah........... I'll give you a call Friday on my 4.75 hr drive to RI to figure it all out if we haven't hammered it out via txt tonight and tomorrow and Friday

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I'm thinking the radiator hole came from a dropped

Hence the teflon hands comment

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Levi, it sucks that screwdriver hit were it did. Little to left or right no damage at all. Glad you found a place to get it fixed. Let me know if you need a hand with the slave cylinder. I have done more than a few over the years.

Yeah...... I would say deffo get Jack to help if you've never done one before....

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

In a thread jack Brian what type of coils did you say to get for the 8? Time for something new for DGRR.

The QuickSilver coils... I would get them from Chris Ludwig of LMS-EFI dot cum or something similar is his website... stout fucking coil for sure...

Other option is the Bosch Motorsports coils from FFE... they are not as powerful, but the packaging is MUCH nicer....

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

I just might take you up on that offer since I don't recall having done it myself before. I'll get the car off the ground again and give it a shot myself first though.

Do it.... shit isn't natural.... probably a good thing that I forgot my small prybar there.... that will more than likely be used

Originally Posted by Fendamonky

Anyway... Pic dump time!!
work, and initial road tuning (you GTFO of here Mr. Murphy!!!)

The more I look at it.... that fucking AST horseshit needs to fucking go......

Also adding the AST/T-stat combo will eliminate the hooky ass 5/8" barb to 3/8"NPT to 3/8 NPT tee to 5/8 barb to 3/8"NPT to 5/16"barb to 3/8" NPT fitting that needs to be constructed in the heater core return line near the turbo..... just saying... one more benefit