Diary of a Madman; TitaniumTT's see you @ DGRRXI RE-REbuild

[TitaniumTT]

Will do... she is a fucking FILTHY whore... I didn't get a chance to give her a bath before she went into the shop for the winter.... oh well.... maybe a wipe down is in order... we'll see....

So I'll get some pics up but here's where we stand with this bitch... she's on jackstands and I dropped the tranny to take it to Speed1 yesterday when I went out to tune a car... It lasted longer than most people though... I figure there's about 25,000 miles on this trans at around 400rwhp with REPEATED 1st gear clutch drops, highway runs, track days etc etc etc.... it held up pretty well I feel. Ever since June 2012 when the thing separated and lost all it's oil @ 143mph on the front straight @ LRP, it's been getting worse and worse. A hub finally over extended and the springs and balls popped out. The result was a chipped 3rd gear, a dented 5th geat, all the syncro's are kinda worn, the input shaft bearing is FUCKED and all the forks are worn pretty good. So with 86 Days remaining..... I start looking for a new tranny.... actually 2... because you're only as good as your backup So if anyone knows of an S1 tranny kicking around.... lemme know....

Hopefully I'll get a few hours tonight to work on the bitch a little bit, there's some fabrication to finish up in the engine bay, the exhaust, and the entire interior needs to be stripped out as well.....

[TitaniumTT]

So with 85 days let I really didn't get a lot done tonight... Managed to get the turbo and manifold off and on the 'vert engine with a Cosmo intake. This way I can mock up the coolant hardlines for the turbo and wastegates on the engine stand and then just transfer them over. I'm also going to rotate the CHRA 17* to create a thermal siphon when the engine shuts down. The way I had the turbo plumbed before when you shut the engine down, the heat from the mani and the turbine housing soaks into the CHRA and I've heard the coolant bubbling before and had one or two coolant lines fail.... oddly... they only fail when the engine is off.... sooooo yeah... need to address that.

Once the CHRA is rotated and locked down, back on the car with all the new lines I'll build an inlet pipe to get the air filter up into the corner behind the headlight and rebuild the AST. The coolant line exit is going to feed straight uphill into the new AST. I'll also build a new overflow tank out of sight just to clean things up a bit and not hinder the location of the air filter.

I think for this round I'll focus one area at a time. Breaking it down into four segments we've got all the mechanical and electrical under the hood. I've got some shit to do to the interior, and some mechanical stuff on the exterior. Then there's always the misc stuff that's nice to do but not required.

So the list for under the hood is as follows.
Coolant hairlines for turbo and wastegates
Swap springs out for 10psi
tweaking the open dump tube
New turbo drain hose
4port dual solenoids and braided Teflon hoses for wastegates.
New AST
New overflow tank.
Turbo inlet tubing with AIT sensor
TiAL BOV with braided lines
New open element AIT sensor
New clutch hardline
New plugs and wires
Quick swap mounts for Quicksilver and D585 coils (yeah, I'm still doing this)
New Overflow tank
3" Vbands before the cans (right now the exhaust is still one piece and it's a MOTHERFUCKER to get in and out with as big as it is....
New alternator - fuck you all
Tranny.

Pretty sure that's everything that needs doing under the hood. I want to up the size of the oilcoolers and remount them farther back and re do the brake ducting. However that will wait. After that list is all done I'll move onto the interior and the wiring that I've got to do.... Anyway... all I really got done tonight was removing the turbo and mani, reclocking it and figuring out all the bits and pieces that I need to order tomorrow so I can keep at it on Thursday. Love Verocious Motorsports... their standard shipping is usually overnight if they have everything in stock

[JhnRX7]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Love Verocious Motorsports... their standard shipping is usually overnight if they have everything in stock

Ditto to this statement ^ I love Verocious, fast shipping and the prices on fittings cant be beat. Also I have to option of driving down and picking up my order


I'm in the middle of the same project, only on the fuel system side. -6 hardlines from tank to injectors. Setting the car up for Flex fuel and decided to go all out.

Side note, I have noticed the same thing on a few dual wastegate cars now... the rear wastegate gets discolored from the heat yet the EGT's were even between both runners.

[RXtacy]

Originally Posted by JhnRX7

I'm in the middle of the same project, only on the fuel system side. -6 hardlines from tank to injectors. Setting the car up for Flex fuel and decided to go all out.

You're doing hardlines from the firewall to the rails also? What are you doing to mitigate vibration/displacement?

Side note, I have noticed the same thing on a few dual wastegate cars now... the rear wastegate gets discolored from the heat yet the EGT's were even between both runners.

On Brian's car especially that rear WG is crammed in there. Very tight fit.

[JhnRX7]

Originally Posted by RXtacy

You're doing hardlines from the firewall to the rails also? What are you doing to mitigate vibration/displacement?
.

I guess my last post was not entirely true... I am running a short run, 10"-12" (or so), of soft line between block and firewall for vibration/flex.

Mr. Ambrosio (RENESISFD) is coming over this weekend to lend his expertise and hopefully help minimize the amount of trashed lines... Hardline Party!

[RETed]

Originally Posted by JhnRX7

Side note, I have noticed the same thing on a few dual wastegate cars now... the rear wastegate gets discolored from the heat yet the EGT's were even between both runners.

Nature of the ambient air flowing over the engine...
Cooler air hits the front of the engine first.
By the time the air gets to the rear of the engine, it's already heated up a lot.
Typically, the rear of engine runs hotter than the front - shoot an IR thermal gun and take some temps...


-Ted

[Fendamonky]

[JL1RX7]

Always knew you were into all kind of tranny love!

[TitaniumTT]

84 days and counting.....

Decided to do a little fab work tonight.... I got a new TiAL BOV in as a replacement for the old greedy unit which I have little faith in.... I'm hoping to put it where the old BOV once lived.... if it fits there it'll fit by 1/16 of an inch.... decided not to press my luck with that... instead I moved onto the coolant lines for the WG

Pulling from the rear housing they're run in parallel. On the side Tee fitting into the rear WG. From there it runs to a street union on the front WG. The exiting coolant from the rear WG meets the exiting coolant from the front WG with another on the side tee fitting and from there it runs up to the lower portion of the waterpump. Hopefully this extends the life of the WG. I was hoping to NOT have to do this.... but as you can clearly see, the rear WG is getting much hotter than the front. It's not from EGT's either. Those stay within a few degrees of each other.... it's just being surrounded hy heat and baked.... hopefully this helps.

I would've liked to have gotten more done tonight, but whatever.... hardlines are FUCKING TIME CONSUMING!!!

[RENESISFD]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

We have a problem..... be a man and get rid of that turbo drain HOSE and make it a hardline. Come on, if you are gonna do it, you might as well do it right. I should not have to tell you these things


I like the tubing clamp. What is your source for them?


Also, regarding your discolored wastegate... were they always water cooled or did you add that at a later date? Mine have like 6k mi. and a track day and are not discolored like that at all.

For Diff and trans temp sensor I used the simple AEM temp sensor http://www.lms-efi.com/sunshop/index...t_detail&p=146

[JhnRX7]

Originally Posted by RENESISFD

For Diff and trans temp sensor I used the simple AEM temp sensor http://www.lms-efi.com/sunshop/index...t_detail&p=146

So how did you setup the sensor with the Haltech seeing as the sensor is not linear and the Haltech apparently does not have enough resolution to accommodate it?

[speedjunkie]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I was trying to find a small enough cut out valve to use with the WG;s..... best of both worlds. But they're huge, both in length and in diameter. I never found one that would work.

What is a cut out valve?

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Or pedestrians in Manhattan.... Full throttle through 1st pop off the rev limiter and watch people jump for cover... I'm such a dick sometimes

I might have to agree with Gunny lol. I do think it would be hilarious to see people jump for cover though.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

It is... it's horrible especially where we have our mani's placed. If we mounted them further forward and higher, it would exponentially easier

Agreed. But I do love the short runners.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I've seen cars, my own included just get hotter and hotter and hotter the longer they cruise. For this reason I said fuck it and just ran mine @ 12.5:1 and slightly leaner in cruise. I still get close to 20 mpg too but the EGT's are much much lower after extended times cruising. If they're close to each other in temp, I'm inclined to say they they're working ok, even if you are seein EGT's that high... it's when they've always been a few degrees off and then they suddenly spike to a few hundred degrees difference that it makes me think that they are acting up.

Give the guys over at Exhaust Gas Technologies a shout, they have some really thick open tipped sensors that can withstand rotary heat.

I still need to get the Adaptronic sorted out before I do any changes to where the EGT sensors are mounted. I think the cruising AFRs I usually see on the PFC are around 14s though, IIRC. I'm trying to remember if they both read super high while on the highway or just one of them. It's been since April so I really don't remember.

Ok I'll check them out. Thanks!

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I start getting ready for Deals Gap 11 months before its on again..... I love that show. Are you planning on making a trip out this year Eric?

Nah I don't think I'll make it this year. But some other guys here in CO have talked about driving out.

Originally Posted by RXtacy

I happen to know a guy who has a jig for said manifold for the FD...

Hmmmmmm, that sounds tempting haha.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Bigger turbo... may not fit.... BIG EFR turbo...

I have the 7670. I'm not sure how it compares in size to a Garrett. I just know that with how short my runners are, and since I have my LIM spaced out about 1/8" due to the fuel rails pressing against each other, it really cramps the space. At least I don't have the wastegate actuator on mine so that saves some room. It should be somewhat comparable to a Garrett I believe. Depending on how much it would cost, I'd think about just paying you guys to build one and see how it fits when I get it lol. I also thought about trying to pick up a cheap, used HKS cast manifold to see how it would fit.

Originally Posted by RENESISFD

We have a problem..... be a man and get rid of that turbo drain HOSE and make it a hardline. Come on, if you are gonna do it, you might as well do it right. I should not have to tell you these things

I actually thought about that myself. I'd like to do all that, and thought about trying a hardline for the oil drain also.

Originally Posted by RENESISFD

Also, regarding your discolored wastegate... were they always water cooled or did you add that at a later date? Mine have like 6k mi. and a track day and are not discolored like that at all.

Yeah I have the MV-S wastegates in black and mine have never discolored like that. Mine has been all street driving though. Either way, I still want to run coolant to them with hard lines lol.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

What is a cut out valve?

Those electronic bypass valves, the y-type that you plumb in with the exaust to go from full loud to full muffled.... I would like to run one on the 'vert but the sizes are just all wrong... so that will be the quiet car.... well..... as quiet as it can be with a 4" downpipe

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

I might have to agree with Gunny lol. I do think it would be hilarious to see people jump for cover though.

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

Agreed. But I do love the short runners.

Yeah... that's why I went through all the trouble and new it was going to be a PITA but... made it work, barely... everything is so damn crammed in there.

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

I still need to get the Adaptronic sorted out before I do any changes to where the EGT sensors are mounted. I think the cruising AFRs I usually see on the PFC are around 14s though, IIRC. I'm trying to remember if they both read super high while on the highway or just one of them. It's been since April so I really don't remember.

Ok I'll check them out. Thanks!

Yeah... unless you jack the hell out of the timing, just richen it up a bit. Low 13's in cruise. I run 12.5:1 and up in cruise. I still get close to 20 mpg if I behave and its a lot happier. The EGT's are LOW in cruise which I like because I do so much highway driving.... 250 miles, turn it off for 10 minutes, 250 more miles etc etc....

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

Nah I don't think I'll make it this year. But some other guys here in CO have talked about driving out.

DO IT! Someone needs a co-pilot! Or fly into NYC and I'll pick you up... one of my drivers may be fagging out

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

Hmmmmmm, that sounds tempting haha.



I have the 7670. I'm not sure how it compares in size to a Garrett. I just know that with how short my runners are, and since I have my LIM spaced out about 1/8" due to the fuel rails pressing against each other, it really cramps the space. At least I don't have the wastegate actuator on mine so that saves some room. It should be somewhat comparable to a Garrett I believe. Depending on how much it would cost, I'd think about just paying you guys to build one and see how it fits when I get it lol. I also thought about trying to pick up a cheap, used HKS cast manifold to see how it would fit.

We have the Jig, I just don't know about fitment with your turbo... that's what worries me.

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

I actually thought about that myself. I'd like to do all that, and thought about trying a hardline for the oil drain also.



Yeah I have the MV-S wastegates in black and mine have never discolored like that. Mine has been all street driving though. Either way, I still want to run coolant to them with hard lines lol.

At the minimum I would need a new bender and a length of tubing. It could be done, but I would rather focus time and energies else where. Plus getting the turbo in and out or the line on or off would be a rage inducing exercise. As it is with the softline it's still a monster PITA, I don't want to know what a hardline would be like.... eff that noise....

[JL1RX7]

Or the DC area, someone will be able to give you a ride.

[Whizbang]

Like a down payment for house in AN fittings