Engine bay painting & rust restoration questions

[Pete_89T2]

I removed my engine on my '89T2 to do a turbo rebuild & upgrade, and while I'm waiting for the turbo to get shipped back, I got into trying to detail the engine bay. Ran into two annoying problems, see pictures...

1. Some rust under the area where the ABS pump used to be, at the point between where the crossmember & frame rail meets and on spots on the inner fender down there. Years ago, the ABS pump leaked, and I had the bypass job done. At the time, the brake fluid stripped the paint there down to bare shiny metal, so I cleaned, prepped, primed & painted it as best I could with rattle can automotive paints. Apparently I didn't do as good a job as I thought.

2. I also noticed that in the past 2 weeks that my car was sitting in the garage with its engine out, the brake MC sprung a nasty leak! Fluid level in the MC dropped by at least 3/4", and it really stripped the paint well as can be seen in the photo. I'm just glad this didn't happen while the car was being driven. Makes me wonder if I banged into the MC or leaned on it too hard while working in there? Oh well, Mazda gets more of my $ again!

I'm looking at trying those POR-15 rust prep & paint coating products to deal with these two problem areas permanently. Since my T2 is black, color match won't be a problem. Have any of you used this stuff for similar restoration work? I found an online retailer that sells a POR 15 "starter set" that is good for cleaning, prepping & coating/painting up to 6 square feet for about $30. The paint/coating part is applied by brush, which should be OK since I have access to everything. The 6 sq. ft. amount is just enough to cover what I need, so I ordered it to try it out. My only concern is if it can stand the heat being a few inches away from the turbo & DP on the right side. Anyone know if that would be a problem? They claim this stuff it's suitable for painting engines, so I would guess it can handle a painted surface temp of at least 200*F.