i would honestly help but i have FD problems at the moment. currently trying to fix my "riding dirty" status.

SA hoses in the mail. Hope they work for ya.

Big thanks Tim. They should work, one more piece of the puzzle, checked off.

If work wasn't so demanding and having us work 6-7 days a week I would help. Till then I'll periodically check your build here, good luck bud!

Damn... I'm in Atlanta on business all that week, or I would be game. May be able to help that weekend the 12th/13th if it's not already done by then.

Brake hoses arrived today. Big thanks to Tim. Not only are they new, but Mazda OEM!!

The strut tool is also fabbed and works perfect!

I figured you would appreciate the original bag they came in. Sorry they were
opened but I use them to very the SS ones I got as replacements.

So, my wheels are delayed....again....probably won't have them until another week and a half.

Because of this, I have a question:

Would you risk running the engine on jackstands? I am going to need to break it in, with only a short amount of time to do it!!!! It isn't a bridge or any huge port, so it should be fine.....right?

Only issue I see is the possible need to put some load on the engine... and that you'd have to sit there varying RPM for what? an hour? otherwise you are just idling and free-revving. I don't see how the port would matter. Also, you are reusing bearings right? That should shorten the time. If some have done it before then they can chime in. what sucks it putting a newly rebuilt carb on a refresh engine.

Break it in on the caravan, and change the oil once you get there!

Man this is a nail biter!! Paul is right break it in on the way. This goes for all mid-tenn folks.... I will have my tool box and trailer if anything happens to your cars I can pull it home you just have to drive my car:-)

starting it up on jack stands and making sure everything is cool is just fine. i can't imagine there's much break in needed. just rock it out.

in my experience, there's always very little break in time required. running for only a 5-10 minutes gets things to 95%+

Well lets hope I don't need to do anymore work :) I'm tired :sifone:

Still no pics. Because all it looks like is various stages of half assembled sub sections of the car.

This is the recent work done:

Front springs cut 1/2 coil

Strut cartridges installed.
-this was a PITA. The cartridges were a little taller than OE. So Adler ground down the cap nuts to take up the difference. This worked perfect, but was another set back.

Front hoses are in.

Calipers are disassembled, cleaned and ready to be installed. Just need to pick up some high temp grease for the slide blocks. Stuff I have is only good for 275 degrees. Then the pads can go in too.

All the excess wiring BS for the CB radio and cruise control is gone. That was not fun either.

Waiting on a lower shifter bushing and T stat to show up from Mazdatrix. Also scored a Holley carb and intake manifold, which should be here sometime this week. Wheels are supposed to ship tomorrow (maybe, geez). I've also been doing some more rust repair, and random tinkering while waiting on parts, or having something fabbed.

Disassembling everything was easy. Putting it back together, not so much.

Why would you get rid of a CB radio? Could come in handy on the dragon lol

It had all the wiring, but no actual CB radio. Tried to find a vintage one that fits the hole, but no luck. Power antenna for it is still there though!

:( I understand. My mom's 1977 Cadillac Coupe DeVille had a CB radio lol

So they worked out for you then? Thats great! Hope we see it at DGRR.

They are a PERFECT fit! Shifter bushing and t stat arrived today!!!

So, here is what is on deck for Sunday:

Install shifter bushing
Bleed brakes and clutch hydros
Fill trans and rear diff
Install new fuel pump and hoses
Pressure wash tank
Install new front pads
Maybe install engine. I'll try it solo, but we'll see. Might need help!

Once the engine is in, the rad and oil cooler can be dropped in. Then I need Charles to come over and help wire the electric dizzy wiring, and S4 alternator wiring. After that, its hit the key and pray to the rotary gods.

I have no doubt the engine is nothing other than perfect. Adler and Charles did a great job on this engine. It really is on me for performing the rest of the work to make it run. Hopefully I won't need to call for a 'All hands on deck' to make this thing ready to go. Everyone else around here are also on a time crunch to get their cars ready for DGRR.

I know alot of people are counting on this POS to show up at DGRR, and I really don't want to disappoint.

You can do solo install. I did it on my fb after Charles rebuilt the 13BT.

I cant wait to see this thing!

Some issues I'm dealing with now.

Can't install the engine on jack stands, the hoist can't get in the right position.

Driver side rear caliper won't bleed. Like, no fluid will come out.

Wheels STILL AREN'T FUCKING HERE.

Need to pressure wash the tank. Weather has been shitty.

Running out of time. Might need some on the double help.

All ya gotta do is ask bro. Just be ready for everybody else scrambling on their own stuff and the last weekend before DGRR to be Easter. :o11:

All moot if wheels don't show anyway...

I've got a few tricks to try on the rear caliper. Right now it is soaking in Evap-O-Rust. Tomorrow after work, I'll blow it out with compressed air and hope the 'clog' goes away. All the other brakes bled out fine. Only had 1 leak where the hardline meets the soft line for the rear axle.

Trans is also up and in. Talk about a PITA when you're by yourself, AND have to deal with a driveshaft that has a center bearing (READ- it stays put and the trans has to slide onto it),

I am really trying to get it together. I don't care if I have to screw on the headlight trim, tail lights, and bumpers the morning we're leaving. It is a little harder now to work on it, since I work until 6-7pm and Morgan goes to bed about 8:30. What's left isn't hard, there are just these little setbacks that get irritating!!!

Oh, and dropping $170 at Advance Auto today on JUST chemicals. Enough oil for 2 changes, gear oil, pre-mix, brake fluid, oil filters, acetone, carb cleaner. Ugh.

I feel ya bro, I had to replace that BA 3rd gen alternator you got me the hook up on and that muther F'er aint cheap! Even with an employee discount I paid $190. And I had to replace my starter for the second time since the previous replacement was just as bad as the other. . Starting to wonder what classifies these parts as "Remans", seriously. . do they just clean these parts and throw them back in a box? Hopefully the alternator is good on the first try since it is order only. . if not I'll have to convert back to 2nd gen or the 7 wont make it this year!

Are you talking about JUST the engine on jackstands or the engine in the car on the jackstands? The first... I wouldn't do it, not worth the time needed to set up all the aux systems to keep it running not to mention the fear of it falling off.

The second - There is no problem with that at all... in fact I always do it. Every engine that I build where I have the car, I start and run at a highish idle (1100rpms) on the jeckstands for at least an hour. Shut her down, check for leaks and let her cool over night. The next day stat idling... Anyone who knows me understands why I do what I do next - Break in lasts for 1000 miles. For the first 100 miles I don't exceed about 3-3500rpms after that I up the rev limit as follows.
100-200 miles - 4000 rpms
200-300 miles - 4500 rpms
300-400 miles - 5000 rpms
400-500 miles - 5500 rpms then change the oil
500-600 miles - 6000 rpms
600-700 miles - 6500 rpms
700-800 miles - 7000 rpms
800-900 miles - 7500 rpms
900-1000 miles all the way to 8k. After 1000 miles change the oil again and head to the dyno.
I stay out of boost as well... or try to... one or two lbs at mid rpms isn't going to hurt anything as long as it's already been tuned.

As far as how long it takes to break things in, it depends on what's been replaced and which Apex seals you used... the ones I like take a LONG time to break in. THe most recent engine I built kept gaining vacuum all the way into the 800 mile range. Granted a good deal of it is done in the first few hundred miles but I also over premix while they break-in and use a lot of oil/vasoline during assembly.

What's the deal with this engine? What all was replaced?

Right? That and I'm also fixing a laundry list of shit that has been bothering me for the last year.....

:(

Really?!?!?!? NO WAY??? :Smilielol5:

Nah.... we're gonna be disappointed if you don't show up.... bring the camry and we'll run on Hellbender.... see what the bitch can really do ;)


Reposition jackstands or use jack on front subframe until the hoist is in the right position then put the jackstands back

Could be hose, we talked about this

Mine neither, he's HOPING for Friday... bastard is weeks late.... happy I am not....

Did you wake up to snow this morning and leave your neighbor a fresh pile of yellow snow before calling it a nigh.....errrr... morning? Than STFU!

That.....

Easter..... ummmmmm... sneeze... cough... I'm not feeling very well... just send me some Deviled Eggs :lol:

Ugh.... I've got to do that as well..... 16 quarts of oil, 10 of which are synthetic, 3 filters, and about 2 gals of RedLine tranny fluid.... EFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUU

Received very bad news today. Wheels aren't shipping until Tuesday. Although, there is a chance they'll ship Monday.

So, it looks like the chances of it getting to DGRR is about 10%. Once they show up, I still need rubber, but that's easy.

I'm still working on getting it ready though, I have a glimmer of hope. If not. Next year.


Dammit.

You're still running the 4X120 bolt pattern aren't you?

Yes.

Dang. Stupid oddball size. I don't have any of those around, otherwise I could have dropped some off to you on the way by. :(

Small update.

I haven't done shit in the past few weeks :)

Although, new tires are being mounted today!!!

Maybe a car party is in order to get the rest of it screwed together....

I'm down, give us a date and hopefully I can make it! (not this weekend or the next)

Maybe the 31st or June 7th?

Unless I get the engine in today, it looks like Sunday will be the day.

Should have it on the ground today. I'll get some pics of it with the new wheels.

:)

:toetap05:

:toetap05:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-z...605_150033.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O...1999686678.jpg

Stuck here. Need help stabbing the engine.

tilt trans upward. wiggle some more. re align clutch disk if necessary (and make sure it fits on splines while you are at it)

wheels look like they are sticking out. need better pics

You can stab it yourself...I do it all the time because I don't have dependable friends.

Tried that, no luck. Might need to readjust the chain, but it would be just as easy to have someone here to help.

They aren't. In the back there is about 1.5 finger gap between the tire and suspension, and they sit just inside the fender lip. Same for the front, but more room on the inside. They are 15x7 0 offset all around with 225/50/15's.

I'll get better pics when the engine is in, fenders are on, and the rear fuel tank and bumper are back on. There is still alot of weight not on the car, and the suspension hasn't been compressed yet.

You have my number... I'm like 10 min away.

:rofl:

Wait wait wait...








:toetap05:

Yeah.... the way we always did it was get a floor jack underneath the tranny to get the most clearance between the motor mounts and whatever subframe. An engine tilter/load leveler has always worked well for me. I've able to get my engine, bolted to the trans, installed singlehandedly.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9099/overview/

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...e/trd-9099.jpg

Werd.....

A few tips I've learned over the years that work across a variety of cars.

Engine tilters help for larger engines or trannies.... IE installing a Jeep tranny by yourself with a floor jack, helps get the proper angle on the engine.

Head to the hardware store and get a few long bolts the same thread as the tranny bolt. Cut the head off and thread them into the lower bolt holes on the block. If you have a stud extractor, proceed. If you don't have a stud extractor cut a notch into the open end of it so that you can unscrew them with a flat head screwdriver.

Line up the lower bolt holes on the tranny with the now studs on the engine. Get in the engine bay, grab onto the block, adjust yourself so nothing pointy is aimed at your manly bits and thrust with the grace of an overweight 40yo virgin. Once the dowels are in the bellhousing. Lower the tranny jack slightly, install one top tranny bolt, remove the lower "studs" and replace with tranny bolts one at a time.

This worked for me when trying to install my Jeeps tranny.... there's no real lower bolt holes, only on the top of the block....

Load Levels help but the reality is the rotary is so damn light and compact that if it starts level you can pretty much get it wherever you want it. I've been impatient before and not used the load leveler, instead took a piece of flat strapping and tied it to the engine pick point, then gone through one of the links on the chain to the picker, tied a butterfly knot in the flat strap (basically turning it into a 3:1 block) and pulled on it until at a better angle. See above about grabbing on and thrusting ;)

DO IT NOAW!