Attack of my 1982 GS!!!
 

Here is the epic tale of my build thread for a 1982 GS i picked up locally.

For starters, the car is clean. Almost too clean in some ways and i love the earlier interiors.

Here is how i got the car:

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Almost immediately, i pulled the differential assembly out of the car. Its amazing how light it is in comparison to the GSL-SE rear end. I'd say at least a 100lb difference.

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Next i pulled the motor out. The engine is a good 12a engine, i just want to go over EVERYTHING i can. Plus removing the rust proofing gunk is easier this way. My fiancee, Amy, cleaned the engine bay for me. Carb cleaner and

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with the motor pulled i started to degrease and scrub it clean. Once that fiasco was done, i pained the irons with ceramic spray paint for some visual appeal.

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I also swapped out the GSL-SE front struts i had. Already have Eibach springs and some Adjust. illumnias.

I also am using a stock replacement clutch and pressure plate. The 1982 has the "light weight" flywheel, so the pressure plate is different than other years. Napa "zoom (valeo)" clutch only set me back about 130 dollars and came with the everything, including the alignment tool and throwout bearing and grease.

For the intake manifold, i splurged and got the Atkins rotary side draft manifold. Its a nice piece, but the ports need some reworking.

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I also purchased a nice set of Suspension Techniques sway bars from Summit Racing. Its nice having them only about 20 minutes away. Installation for the front one sucks, to be plain. The rear is too bad. Just keep your hardware from the originals.

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Once that was installed i settled the engine and transmission back into the car.

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Wow, the engine bay cleaned up really well. And I agree with you, the S2 interiors rule.

Looking good.

Nice ride and great work, but i have to disagree with u and %, S3 interiors is where its at :D

so i hit a wall. Appearently, a 44 IDF and a 45 DCOE DO NOT have the small flange pattern....

I am modifing a carb to act just as an EFI throttle body as opposed to buying a higher dollar unit. Or at least that WAS the plan until i got the 44 IDF and it sure as hell doesn't mate to the Atkins manifold i have....

I like the way it came out keep up the good work

Progress has been made. Car is rolling around. Still need some things though. Have to do the fuel lines, fuel pump, needs rear dampers, and to finish the ignition setup (MSD boxes), install the MS unit i finished soldering and some other items. But generally speaking, i am on the home stretch.


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Also you can note in the picture that i am using an FC aluminum pump housing with a FB aluminum pump. Everything works out fine less the alternator mounting point. As you can see, air pump brackets and little grinding and solve this.

It is certainly colorful under the rear, with the orange trailing arms & watts link, and the bright green ST swaybar. I dunno what inspired ST to switch to that color on their springs and sways.....

they actually gave me an insert page talking about the color choice.

more progess.

The car now has some brake lines. Russell SS ones from Summit. The header is on, as is a tweaked Nikki Carb. Carter fuel pump is all connected up. All the electrical is connected and ready to go.

Now for the bad: I need a new driver's front caliper, pending on if i can removed the old bleeder in the one on there now. (its been snapped off). Also i am leaking coolant from the intake manifold. SOOO i need to address this as well. Going to have to take the manifold back off and put freeze plugs in place of the o ring crap.

I have a set of those Russell stainless lines ready to go on my car. Only item that is somewhat disappointing with them, they only included 3 sealing washers, and they're aluminum. Oh well, copper gaskets aren't that pricey, I just wish Russell had included them. I'll prolly pick up another set for the other car. Summit has a good price, and it's a 5 line set.
I also use the freeze plugs in my car. Only real issue I have encountered is the carb will sometimes ice up when the temp is below 40F. Once the engine has warmed up, the problem goes away. I don't drive the car much during the winter, so it's not a big issue.
Front calipers aren't too pricey, so it may be a good idea to replace both, if you cannot repair the broke bleeder. I have had limited success with drilling out broken bleeders. Sometimes it works, other times not so well.

im hoping i can just get another caliper new and call it a day since i am fresh out of good front calipers. and i have a 1400 mile drive to make october 1st..and there is a good chance its in this car...

as for the freeze plugs...i really dont get WHY its leaking. I used two new orings. What i think may have happened is that the orings i got were from napa in the generatic o ring box they have. Im thinking since they weren't a "perfect" fit, they may have pinched.

Either way, im tempted to just freeze plug the holes and be done with it.

I veiw the orings as a poor design, and always advise the use of freeze plugs when installing an aftermarket intake that doesn't have the water passages. Just an added security item, in my mind.
I know why Mazda used the water passages in the intake, but it could have been designed a little better. Those orings tend to leak far too often.
The reasoning behind the heated intake is not only to help prevent carb icing in colder climates, but the warmer air/fuel mixture is supposed to give a more complete burn. Great for reducing emmissions, but not so great for maximizing the power.