View Single Post
Old 01-20-2013, 01:49 PM   #232
JustJeff
RCC Contributor
 
JustJeff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 505
Rep Power: 18
JustJeff is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
I believe the Mazda torque spec is around 27 lb-ft?
I only use Snap On torque wrenches - click-type.
I run my rebuilds at 30 lb-ft.
It's slightly higher than stock spec, but it's not tight enough to interfere with the rotating assembly.
I know guys run them higher, but you run the risk of increasing friction.
I've seen an engine torqued down to 40 lb-ft that almost could not be rotated by hand!
I know Snap On torque wrenches are not cheap, but the ~$200 investment is a good one in this case.


-Ted
I've got a Craftsman. I doubt that the torque was off unless the wrench was faulty. I like the beam type wrenches more cause I can see with my own eyse type thing. Trusting a click in a wrench makes me nervous. I got very anal and almost OCD when checking torque on nuts and bolts. I went around the through/tension bolts several times, but don't remember what the torque was on them. I took notes and pics through the teardown and tolerance speccing, but then at the end for assembly I got more focused on getting the job done and note taking fell by the wayside.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by yzf-r1
Take your pathetic ultimatums and stupid "AOL" comments and shove them straight up your ass, you little punk. You avatar is gay as well....

1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas
JustJeff is offline   Reply With Quote