Plain Jane OEM nothing to see here rebuild

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by RETed

I believe the Mazda torque spec is around 27 lb-ft?
I only use Snap On torque wrenches - click-type.
I run my rebuilds at 30 lb-ft.
It's slightly higher than stock spec, but it's not tight enough to interfere with the rotating assembly.
I know guys run them higher, but you run the risk of increasing friction.
I've seen an engine torqued down to 40 lb-ft that almost could not be rotated by hand!
I know Snap On torque wrenches are not cheap, but the ~$200 investment is a good one in this case.


-Ted

I've got a Craftsman. I doubt that the torque was off unless the wrench was faulty. I like the beam type wrenches more cause I can see with my own eyse type thing. Trusting a click in a wrench makes me nervous. I got very anal and almost OCD when checking torque on nuts and bolts. I went around the through/tension bolts several times, but don't remember what the torque was on them. I took notes and pics through the teardown and tolerance speccing, but then at the end for assembly I got more focused on getting the job done and note taking fell by the wayside.

[JL1RX7]

The click type torque wrenches are very accurate as long as they are not dropped and used for the final torque. Beam are the least accurate. I have seen so many fail calibration brand new out the box.
The snap on ones are expensive but they are very good. Used them in the Navy torquing bolts and CADS on the ejection seats. Figure if they are used for that then it is more than good for a car.