[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by FC Zach

But yes, I see that there's difference in terminals and their requirements, please share your resistor size/part number. . I'm sure it could be beneficial to others as well.

I will do my best to remember to check it. If you don't have a text from me by 8pm tomorrow night, text me. It means I've forgotten

Originally Posted by FC Zach

So far things seem pretty clear as to what I need to do. . I just need to get it done. So with what you have said, I'm ditching the idea of searching for the OE wires and will run my leads like mentioned (I believe we're on the same page here).

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Then, once I have the wiring done (I've been meaning to do this anyways) I need to get the alternator bench tested.

I would do it the way I posted about for testing purposes only. Once it's confirmed that the wiring is good, and the alt passes it's bench test, you've run it and it charges properly, there's no electrical whine, there's no current draw on the battery and you can leave it for a few days/week with no ill effects, than I would start looking for the factory wires.

However, if you're using the factory wires that you find in the harness, a few things are going to need to change in the car itself.
First, the Alt relay that controls the idiot light needs to be addressed. The B/W wire on the S4 chassis needs to be connected to constant power. Both of which are easy enough

Originally Posted by FC Zach

I'm checking that connector I mentioned. . It's a white/black wire that I believe I was using. . Checking it with a meter, it doesn't have power in any position of the ignition switch so I'll have to find another source.

That's fucked up. What's the connector originally for?

Originally Posted by FC Zach

What about this. . Use an unused 12v injector wire from my Ludwig harness for the "L terminal"? with a resistor of course. . What do you think? This would definitely be the tidiest route to take. Or would resistance on this wire cause any unwanted problem/s?

It would be the easiest, but I would not suggest going about it that way only because of the potential problems it could cause down the road.

Factory it's the FE-03 connector that's on the front harness that houses the wires for the alt. Page 50-16 in the S4 FSM I would find that connector, find the B/W wire and see if that has voltage, if it does, there's your L circuit (originally R) Then it's a matter of finding on the same connector W/G wire and ohming it back to the idiot lights. If you find that connector you can then tap that into anything on the dash harness (stereo) that has constant power. This is the new S terminal on the S6 alt. That would do it as well.