Alternator question, battery is discharging quickly.

FC Zach · 02-27-2017, 04:11 PM

I'm checking that connector I mentioned. . It's a white/black wire that I believe I was using. . Checking it with a meter, it doesn't have power in any position of the ignition switch so I'll have to find another source.

What about this. . Use an unused 12v injector wire from my Ludwig harness for the "L terminal"? with a resistor of course. . What do you think? This would definitely be the tidiest route to take. Or would resistance on this wire cause any unwanted problem/s?

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-27-2017, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

But yes, I see that there's difference in terminals and their requirements, please share your resistor size/part number. . I'm sure it could be beneficial to others as well.

I will do my best to remember to check it. If you don't have a text from me by 8pm tomorrow night, text me. It means I've forgotten

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

So far things seem pretty clear as to what I need to do. . I just need to get it done. So with what you have said, I'm ditching the idea of searching for the OE wires and will run my leads like mentioned (I believe we're on the same page here).

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Then, once I have the wiring done (I've been meaning to do this anyways) I need to get the alternator bench tested.

I would do it the way I posted about for testing purposes only. Once it's confirmed that the wiring is good, and the alt passes it's bench test, you've run it and it charges properly, there's no electrical whine, there's no current draw on the battery and you can leave it for a few days/week with no ill effects, than I would start looking for the factory wires.

However, if you're using the factory wires that you find in the harness, a few things are going to need to change in the car itself.
First, the Alt relay that controls the idiot light needs to be addressed. The B/W wire on the S4 chassis needs to be connected to constant power. Both of which are easy enough

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

I'm checking that connector I mentioned. . It's a white/black wire that I believe I was using. . Checking it with a meter, it doesn't have power in any position of the ignition switch so I'll have to find another source.

That's fucked up. What's the connector originally for?

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

What about this. . Use an unused 12v injector wire from my Ludwig harness for the "L terminal"? with a resistor of course. . What do you think? This would definitely be the tidiest route to take. Or would resistance on this wire cause any unwanted problem/s?

It would be the easiest, but I would not suggest going about it that way only because of the potential problems it could cause down the road.

Factory it's the FE-03 connector that's on the front harness that houses the wires for the alt. Page 50-16 in the S4 FSM I would find that connector, find the B/W wire and see if that has voltage, if it does, there's your L circuit (originally R) Then it's a matter of finding on the same connector W/G wire and ohming it back to the idiot lights. If you find that connector you can then tap that into anything on the dash harness (stereo) that has constant power. This is the new S terminal on the S6 alt. That would do it as well.

FC Zach · 02-27-2017, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I will do my best to remember to check it. If you don't have a text from me by 8pm tomorrow night, text me. It means I've forgotten

Alright, will do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I would do it the way I posted about for testing purposes only. Once it's confirmed that the wiring is good, and the alt passes it's bench test, you've run it and it charges properly, there's no electrical whine, there's no current draw on the battery and you can leave it for a few days/week with no ill effects, than I would start looking for the factory wires.

Alright, currently have one wire (S Terminal) temporarily ran to the battery. "L Terminal" pending till I find the proper resistor and a switched 12v source.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

However, if you're using the factory wires that you find in the harness, a few things are going to need to change in the car itself.
First, the Alt relay that controls the idiot light needs to be addressed. The B/W wire on the S4 chassis needs to be connected to constant power. Both of which are easy enough

Noted. .

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

That's fucked up. What's the connector originally for?

No idea, I'll share a picture of it later.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

It would be the easiest, but I would not suggest going about it that way only because of the potential problems it could cause down the road.

Ten four

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Factory it's the FE-03 connector that's on the front harness that houses the wires for the alt. Page 50-16 in the S4 FSM I would find that connector, find the B/W wire and see if that has voltage, if it does, there's your L circuit (originally R) Then it's a matter of finding on the same connector W/G wire and ohming it back to the idiot lights. If you find that connector you can then tap that into anything on the dash harness (stereo) that has constant power. This is the new S terminal on the S6 alt. That would do it as well.

I'll look into this

FC Zach · 02-27-2017, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

That's fucked up. What's the connector originally for?

Test connector? ? was secured to the backside of the fuse block bracket.

Since this is out and it may not be wise to tap into an unused injector wire in the Ludwig harness, I will search for a different source later down the road. Till then I'll make temporary connections.

Oh, I took a picture of the resistors I have laying around. . What are the chances any of these are the right ones?

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-28-2017, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Alright, will do.
Alright, currently have one wire (S Terminal) temporarily ran to the battery. "L Terminal" pending till I find the proper resistor and a switched 12v source.

Kewl

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Noted. .
No idea, I'll share a picture of it later.
Ten four
I'll look into this

From the factory, that's where the two harnesses meet, down below the masters on the framerail

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Test connector? ? was secured to the backside of the fuse block bracket.

First thought was AAS and it does look like F-14, AAS connector, pg 50-80

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Since this is out and it may not be wise to tap into an unused injector wire in the Ludwig harness, I will search for a different source later down the road. Till then I'll make temporary connections.

That's kinda what I'm thinking.
The Alt charge wire is going to either the fuse block or the battery itself. Either way running them with the charge cable, like the factory did, would be the tidiest way to do it. It's just a matter of finding the proper wires and terminating them in a tidy way.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC Zach

Oh, I took a picture of the resistors I have laying around. . What are the chances any of these are the right ones?
[img]https://c1.staticflickr.

Probably pretty good

02-27-2017, 04:11 PM	#1
FC Zach RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Eagleville, TN Posts: 2,267 Rep Power: 20	I'm checking that connector I mentioned. . It's a white/black wire that I believe I was using. . Checking it with a meter, it doesn't have power in any position of the ignition switch so I'll have to find another source. What about this. . Use an unused 12v injector wire from my Ludwig harness for the "L terminal"? with a resistor of course. . What do you think? This would definitely be the tidiest route to take. Or would resistance on this wire cause any unwanted problem/s? __________________ 1993 Yamaha GTS1000 1992 Celica Turbo AllTrac 1987 RX7 Sport 1979 Yamaha G1, KM24 powered 1975 Dolmar KMS4 Last edited by FC Zach; 02-27-2017 at 04:25 PM.