R4ITEI's 10th AE Money Pit.

[r4itei]

so I finally have a 7! finally, after years and years of research and wanting =)
So hard to find a clean unmolested and decently priced one here in Toronto.

Sadly, I can't work on it right now >=( Stupid Winter

Anyway, here's the 411.
10th AE w/ 117,000 km

Pros:
- CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN! Except for the front bumper, someone backed into it.
Fortunately, just the bumper and maybe bumper and rad supports. Not so
bad.
- Decent mileage for a 24 year old car. And for the price I got it for, cheap!
- BONE STOCK! STOCK STOCK STOCK! ^_^
An artist needs a fresh canvas to create a masterpiece! =)


Cons:
- Car hasn't been started in 8-10 years. Just been stored inside a garage.
Figure the engine should get a rebuild, so I won't be surprised later on. Game plan for now is find another T2 keg. Send to Rotary Dynamics, I can be on the road sooner and rebuild the other keg myself.

- Tires look rotted. Wheels are scuffed to shit.
Possibly just refinish with fresh Dunlop Star Specs.


So since this car is 24 years old. Shit's about to break for sure. I'm open to suggestions, ideas, comments, whatever.

Immediate Planned Upgrades (To Be Done By May/June 2012):
- Supra TT Fuel Pump
It's recommended that I check/rewire the stock pump so might as well upgrade since it's a drop-in. Saves time and money in the future AND gives me room to breathe, cause apparently, the stock pump can't handle too much upgrades. Someone wanna give me the part number? Haha.
- F.C.D.
- Still on the fence on whether I should do the banjo bolt mod regarding that Pulsation Dampener or get an FPR that doesn't require a PD.
- Port the turbo wastegate. Will see shaft play and depending, perhaps send to BNR for rebuild/stage1?
- RTEK 2.1
- Turbo back? Catback? just gut the cat?
- Slotted rotors. Rebuild calipers. New pads.
- Braided brake lines and clutch lines. Gotta see how the hardlines are too.
- Struts and springs. Maybe I'll get it running first and see how it handles? or just do it once?
- New rad. Does the Koyo N-Pass for the S5 fit on the 10th AE? Does anyone recommend a different rad? I prefer stock fit...
- E-Fan
- FD Alternator? Pros Cons? Don't worry, I'm researching this right now.
- Upgrade Injectors? or just get em cleaned and tested?
- And new plugs, fluids, oil etc.


Am I missing anything I should upgrade/replace/look into? Something prone to breaking after 20+ years?
I'll eventually add pics to this thread.

Add-ons:
- Clean/New Fuel Tank. Possibly hardlines as well.
- 4 ID 720 or 50 (?) injectors
- New Water Pump, Belts and Hoses
- Front and Rear wheel bearings
- new brake master cylinder, new clutch slave/master cylinders with SS line
- Suspension bushings

[lt1_fd3s]

good luck with the build... but i would say if you can get the engine running that's in the car now! before rebuild! hahaha... never know, might run with a little love...

[djmtsu]

Since it has been sitting for SO LONG, I would edit your plans as follows (and why):

1) Haltech Platinum Sprint RE
-by now the stock wiring is crap, brittle and will prove a headache
2) Rebuild
-again, from sitting so long, I wouldn't try to start it. Can potentially do more damage than good. While it is apart get it ported and use GOOD apex seals and Viton seals.
3) Clean/Replace fuel tank
-if there was ANY fuel in it, is has turned to absolute shit. Might also need to source another pick up/sending unit as well. Most radiator shops can clean it, or just buy one.
4) Injector Dynamics 1000cc/1000cc for primary and secondaries.
-should be all you need for now
5) New water pump, belts and all hoses
-dried up and useless by now
6) if emissions aren't a concern, strip all that and order block off plates
-de-clutter the useless crap
7) mod the throttle body
-remove the emissions BS and plug the unnecessary ports.
8) FMIC kit
-the TMIC sucks.
9) Racing Beat FULL exhaust (downpipe to tailpipe)
-good sound, good power
10) go through the headlight/power harness and check everything
-this can wait until the car is running, but time (and potentially rodents) can do bad things to wiring
11) rebuilt calipers, or get remans
-surely one or more are seized.
12) new brake master cylinder
-sitting too long, dried up, I wouldn't trust it
13) new clutch slave/master cylinders with SS line
-they will be dried out and toast
14) upgraded clutch
-since you are wanting to upgrade power, this is a must
15) suspension bushings
-lack of movement and use has surely dried them out

The radiator and e-fan are a good idea. The FD alternator is as well, but you will need to get a new pulley from Japan2LA that will line up right. Also, it is a dual pulley so you can run two belts and ditch the air pump.

Upgraded struts and springs are a good idea too, but might want to just get coilovers since the prices are getting better. If you want it to ride nice, and do not need the massive adjustability of coilovers, I suggest KYB AGX struts and get the Racing Beat suspension kit that includes springs and sways. Sways make a huge difference.

Slotted rotors are not necessary, really. The stock brakes are outstanding, a good set of pads goes a long way. Don't throw your money away on brakes unless you are getting a big brake kit.

While you have the rear suspension out for new bushings, go ahead and replace the rear wheel bearings. You'll thank me. Might want to also replace the front wheel bearings as well.

Have fun

[r4itei]

Originally Posted by lt1_fd3s

good luck with the build... but i would say if you can get the engine running that's in the car now! before rebuild! hahaha... never know, might run with a little love...

- I'm scared that there's a loose seal and by trying to start it, I end up wrecking my housings and rotors and irons. Better safe than sorry. =)

Originally Posted by djmtsu

1) Haltech Platinum Sprint RE
- I can't afford it right now. If I had money, I'd just follow in Titanium TT's footsteps and play with a Motec. I want sequential 400+ HP with a smooth transition...I picked a horrible idol, I know.
2) Rebuild
- Agreed
3) Clean/Replace fuel tank
- Perhaps new lines as well? Surely there will be gunk in there as well?
4) Injector Dynamics 1000cc/1000cc for primary and secondaries.
- Since I can't afford the Haltech, the max the RTEK allows is 720? or 750 cant remember. But I'll get 4 of whichever from ID.
5) New water pump, belts and all hoses
- Agreed
6) if emissions aren't a concern, strip all that and order block off plates
- I gotta keep emissions... I wanted an 87 FC so I wouldnt need to but couldnt pass up this 10th ae. gotta look up how to pass emissions...
7) mod the throttle body
- emissions
8) FMIC kit
- perhaps in a year or two? trying to go baby steps. maybe v-mount in 2 years? haha
9) Racing Beat FULL exhaust (downpipe to tailpipe)
- part of the plan... gotta somehow get a cat case welded over it to look like i have one?
10) go through the headlight/power harness and check everything
- i just need it to survive for a year or 2, hopefully. then get a proper standalone. TTT's wiring was/is sexy as hell. not trying to replicate him but cant argue with quality and results haha
11) rebuilt calipers, or get remans, new brake master cylinder, new clutch slave/master cylinders with SS line
- agreed
14) upgraded clutch
- i'm aiming for 220-250 hp at crank atm... would stock be able to handle? exedy stage 1?
15) suspension bushings
- didnt think of this one. added to list.

The radiator and e-fan are a good idea. The FD alternator is as well, but you will need to get a new pulley from Japan2LA that will line up right. Also, it is a dual pulley so you can run two belts and ditch the air pump.

how easy would it be to reinstall that air pump for emissions purposes? such a hassle i know. but i have read some people having an alternate exhaust just for emissions..


Upgraded struts and springs are a good idea too, but might want to just get coilovers since the prices are getting better. If you want it to ride nice, and do not need the massive adjustability of coilovers, I suggest KYB AGX struts and get the Racing Beat suspension kit that includes springs and sways. Sways make a huge difference.

funny enough i was gonna get the KYB AGX, already asked one of my buddies for pricing. why RB instead of ST regarding the springs? i was thinking about going for the ST.. and i read something before about how the rear sways arent a real necessity? cant remember..


Slotted rotors are not necessary, really. The stock brakes are outstanding, a good set of pads goes a long way. Don't throw your money away on brakes unless you are getting a big brake kit.

was thinking for better cooling? but if they arent a necessity then thanks!


While you have the rear suspension out for new bushings, go ahead and replace the rear wheel bearings. You'll thank me. Might want to also replace the front wheel bearings as well.

Have fun

[lt1_fd3s]

i'm crazy... so probably best not to listen to me =] good luck with it! and POST PICS!!! plz

[Pete_89T2]

Originally Posted by r4itei

- I'm scared that there's a loose seal and by trying to start it, I end up wrecking my housings and rotors and irons. Better safe than sorry. =)

Have you tried turning the engine over by hand to check if its locked up? Stick a ratchet wrench on the e-shaft pulley bolt and try rotating it - don't try to force anything, if all is well it should turn easily.

[djmtsu]

Originally Posted by Pete_89T2

Have you tried turning the engine over by hand to check if its locked up? Stick a ratchet wrench on the e-shaft pulley bolt and try rotating it - don't try to force anything, if all is well it should turn easily.

Before you try that, take out the plugs and squirt some ATF or MMO in there rotor housing to try to break down some carbon that might have built up.

Of course, even if you turn it over, and hear all the pulses, that doesn't mean the engine is good. Over that length of time, the oil control rings have long dried up from lack of oil lubrication, and the coolant o rings probably in the same boat.

Seriously though, to avoid further damage, I would not tempt fate. If it fires and runs, then throws a seal you will be in for more $$$ for a rebuild than if you didn't.

[r4itei]

Originally Posted by djmtsu

Seriously though, to avoid further damage, I would not tempt fate. If it fires and runs, then throws a seal you will be in for more $$$ for a rebuild than if you didn't.

i completely agree. i'm a firm believer in do it once do it right.
i've tried too many things hoping it'll be okay and end up screwing myself over.

i have thought about trying and pushing my luck but rather not risk it. at least with a rebuild, i'll know whats in there and what isnt.

[r4itei]

Originally Posted by lt1_fd3s

i'm crazy... so probably best not to listen to me =] good luck with it! and POST PICS!!! plz

pics shall come, just be patient. stupid snow. we were getting +5 degree temperatures the past 2 weeks ... its snowing this weekend.

believe me, i cannot wait to get started. there will be plenty of pics!

[Raksj04]

The main issue with running rtek is the fact you have to find a old palm to tune with it. The sony cile I have will not hotsync via usb with my windows 7 64 bit computer. I have to hotsync via IR port, which is slow. If you have big plans for the future plan for it now. I would pick up a used Haltech, one that is known to work well.

[Luthor]

Best of luck in reviving that baby!

[speedjunkie]

Welcome! I love 10thA.E.s so I need to see pics lol.

[DriFD3S]

I agree with Speedjunkie,
Post up some pictures man!!

[r4itei]

Pictures are comin'! When winter decides to leave..! I wanna get started on this project!

OH! DriFD3S, can't tell specifically who your avatar is but I was asking one of my graphic design friend to sketch an FC with blue and white gundam-esque paint scheme. haha.


So, anyway, questions....
(I'll be searching as well but sometimes I'm not searching the right keywords for it.)

Suspension bushings. Prothane vs Energy Suspension? Pros and Cons of either?
I recall reading a long time ago, something about how it makes the suspension too stiff and how some parts they used the OEM and some the polys?

Springs. Debating on Tanabe GF210 or Suspension Techniques or RB. I've been googling for 20-30 minutes and not sure whether I'm just retarded. For any/all 3, linear/progressive? spring rates F/R? more street/track oriented?

From a first glance, I would prefer a progressive spring since it'll be more forgiving on the street and keep up when I kick it on track. Just from what I've read, no real experience yet. Penny for your thoughts?

And as soon as the snow melts, I swear there will be pics! And I can start working on her!

[Pete_89T2]

Originally Posted by r4itei

Suspension bushings. Prothane vs Energy Suspension? Pros and Cons of either?
I recall reading a long time ago, something about how it makes the suspension too stiff and how some parts they used the OEM and some the polys?

Springs. Debating on Tanabe GF210 or Suspension Techniques or RB. I've been googling for 20-30 minutes and not sure whether I'm just retarded. For any/all 3, linear/progressive? spring rates F/R? more street/track oriented?

From a first glance, I would prefer a progressive spring since it'll be more forgiving on the street and keep up when I kick it on track. Just from what I've read, no real experience yet. Penny for your thoughts?

I haven't done the full bushing job yet (only did the sway bar bushings so far), so I really can't comment WRT comparing brands there. On the springs & struts question, I'm using Racing Beat springs (linear springs) and a set of the the KYB AGX adjustable struts. I've been very happy with this combination; the KYBs have 4 adjustment settings up front, and 8 rear, and adjustments are easy to get to without having to take anything apart. I've found that with the KYB settings at the midpoints ("2" front, "4" rear), handling is crisp & predictable on the twisties/autocross, with a neutral balance. Ride quality & comfort is actually a big improvement over stock - but then my stock springs & struts had 15 years of wear & tear on them when I replaced them!