R4ITEI's 10th AE Money Pit.

[r4itei]

Originally Posted by lt1_fd3s

good luck with the build... but i would say if you can get the engine running that's in the car now! before rebuild! hahaha... never know, might run with a little love...

- I'm scared that there's a loose seal and by trying to start it, I end up wrecking my housings and rotors and irons. Better safe than sorry. =)

Originally Posted by djmtsu

1) Haltech Platinum Sprint RE
- I can't afford it right now. If I had money, I'd just follow in Titanium TT's footsteps and play with a Motec. I want sequential 400+ HP with a smooth transition...I picked a horrible idol, I know.
2) Rebuild
- Agreed
3) Clean/Replace fuel tank
- Perhaps new lines as well? Surely there will be gunk in there as well?
4) Injector Dynamics 1000cc/1000cc for primary and secondaries.
- Since I can't afford the Haltech, the max the RTEK allows is 720? or 750 cant remember. But I'll get 4 of whichever from ID.
5) New water pump, belts and all hoses
- Agreed
6) if emissions aren't a concern, strip all that and order block off plates
- I gotta keep emissions... I wanted an 87 FC so I wouldnt need to but couldnt pass up this 10th ae. gotta look up how to pass emissions...
7) mod the throttle body
- emissions
8) FMIC kit
- perhaps in a year or two? trying to go baby steps. maybe v-mount in 2 years? haha
9) Racing Beat FULL exhaust (downpipe to tailpipe)
- part of the plan... gotta somehow get a cat case welded over it to look like i have one?
10) go through the headlight/power harness and check everything
- i just need it to survive for a year or 2, hopefully. then get a proper standalone. TTT's wiring was/is sexy as hell. not trying to replicate him but cant argue with quality and results haha
11) rebuilt calipers, or get remans, new brake master cylinder, new clutch slave/master cylinders with SS line
- agreed
14) upgraded clutch
- i'm aiming for 220-250 hp at crank atm... would stock be able to handle? exedy stage 1?
15) suspension bushings
- didnt think of this one. added to list.

The radiator and e-fan are a good idea. The FD alternator is as well, but you will need to get a new pulley from Japan2LA that will line up right. Also, it is a dual pulley so you can run two belts and ditch the air pump.

how easy would it be to reinstall that air pump for emissions purposes? such a hassle i know. but i have read some people having an alternate exhaust just for emissions..


Upgraded struts and springs are a good idea too, but might want to just get coilovers since the prices are getting better. If you want it to ride nice, and do not need the massive adjustability of coilovers, I suggest KYB AGX struts and get the Racing Beat suspension kit that includes springs and sways. Sways make a huge difference.

funny enough i was gonna get the KYB AGX, already asked one of my buddies for pricing. why RB instead of ST regarding the springs? i was thinking about going for the ST.. and i read something before about how the rear sways arent a real necessity? cant remember..


Slotted rotors are not necessary, really. The stock brakes are outstanding, a good set of pads goes a long way. Don't throw your money away on brakes unless you are getting a big brake kit.

was thinking for better cooling? but if they arent a necessity then thanks!


While you have the rear suspension out for new bushings, go ahead and replace the rear wheel bearings. You'll thank me. Might want to also replace the front wheel bearings as well.

Have fun

[Pete_89T2]

Originally Posted by r4itei

- I'm scared that there's a loose seal and by trying to start it, I end up wrecking my housings and rotors and irons. Better safe than sorry. =)

Have you tried turning the engine over by hand to check if its locked up? Stick a ratchet wrench on the e-shaft pulley bolt and try rotating it - don't try to force anything, if all is well it should turn easily.

[djmtsu]

Originally Posted by Pete_89T2

Have you tried turning the engine over by hand to check if its locked up? Stick a ratchet wrench on the e-shaft pulley bolt and try rotating it - don't try to force anything, if all is well it should turn easily.

Before you try that, take out the plugs and squirt some ATF or MMO in there rotor housing to try to break down some carbon that might have built up.

Of course, even if you turn it over, and hear all the pulses, that doesn't mean the engine is good. Over that length of time, the oil control rings have long dried up from lack of oil lubrication, and the coolant o rings probably in the same boat.

Seriously though, to avoid further damage, I would not tempt fate. If it fires and runs, then throws a seal you will be in for more $$$ for a rebuild than if you didn't.

[r4itei]

Originally Posted by djmtsu

Seriously though, to avoid further damage, I would not tempt fate. If it fires and runs, then throws a seal you will be in for more $$$ for a rebuild than if you didn't.

i completely agree. i'm a firm believer in do it once do it right.
i've tried too many things hoping it'll be okay and end up screwing myself over.

i have thought about trying and pushing my luck but rather not risk it. at least with a rebuild, i'll know whats in there and what isnt.