Crank pulley issues

jensenator · 06-30-2014, 06:27 PM

Mazda used some no-shit threadlocker on that bolt and that's why the breaker bar broke. My 350 foot pound MATCO impact wouldn't even budge the last one I did till it was heated. A propane torch will eventually get it hot enough but I'd go with a MAPP, it gets hotter quicker and you can use a propane torch on a MAPP cylinder.

You will need to replace the front cover seal for sure and I'd replace the thermal pellet and the O ring on the bolt too. The copper washer will be okay, smear a little silicone or Loctite 518 on the face of it when you reinstall.

Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and wedge it there before removing the bolt, I have used a chunk of 2x4 or similar in the past. That will push the E shaft forward and make it much less likely the thrust bearing will fall out.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Switch to Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Threaded Mode

06-30-2014, 06:27 PM	#8
jensenator The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Columbia SC Posts: 5 Rep Power: 0	Mazda used some no-shit threadlocker on that bolt and that's why the breaker bar broke. My 350 foot pound MATCO impact wouldn't even budge the last one I did till it was heated. A propane torch will eventually get it hot enough but I'd go with a MAPP, it gets hotter quicker and you can use a propane torch on a MAPP cylinder. You will need to replace the front cover seal for sure and I'd replace the thermal pellet and the O ring on the bolt too. The copper washer will be okay, smear a little silicone or Loctite 518 on the face of it when you reinstall. Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and wedge it there before removing the bolt, I have used a chunk of 2x4 or similar in the past. That will push the E shaft forward and make it much less likely the thrust bearing will fall out.