Crank pulley issues

My5ABaby · 06-30-2014, 02:23 PM

Sounds like a good plan. Other option is do you think you can get a drill in there and then easy-out the broken bolts?

vrracing · 06-30-2014, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My5ABaby

...and then easy-out with a shitload of heat the

broken bolts?

I was thinking the same thing. Pull the rad to get clearance and a nice straight shot in. Pulling that front main has such potential to ruin your day (month/year) and Mr Murphy has already given you fair warning that he hates you!

Good luck!

Pete_89T2 · 06-30-2014, 04:28 PM

For using the drill & easy out, I'd probably need to remove the radiator AND the A/C condenser which I don't want to do (A/C works). Removing the radiator is easy, and will be necessary to get an impact wrench in there, but the condenser can stay put for that (drill & bit is much longer than impact wrench), which is why I'm trying to muscle it off with the breaker bar first... That, plus I don't own a compressor and an impact gun; which may change soon if this thing pisses me off any more.

The good news is that I didn't need to buy that MT flywheel lock tool. A piece of stout angle iron wedged into the flywheel gear teeth, locked against the bell housing & garage floor is holding the flywheel put just fine

One other thing to add... So far I've tried to crack loose the pulley bolt with nothing other than a soaking of PB blaster penetrating lube with no luck. How hot would I need to get that bolt with a torch to loosen up whatever thread locking compound is in there, and would a regular propane blowtorch be sufficient heat?

RETed · 06-30-2014, 06:11 PM

I was going to say...

Get it HOT!

You will almost never get it TOO hot with propane.
It might turn a dull red.

I've used MAPP gas with better success.

Heat until stuff starts to smoke.
Then try and loosen...
The downside is that you NEED to change out that front oil seal on the front oil cover - $5 part, I think.

-Ted

06-30-2014, 02:23 PM	#1
My5ABaby Sigh..... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 2,377 Rep Power: 20	Sounds like a good plan. Other option is do you think you can get a drill in there and then easy-out the broken bolts? __________________ 1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."

06-30-2014, 04:28 PM	#3
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD Posts: 874 Rep Power: 16	For using the drill & easy out, I'd probably need to remove the radiator AND the A/C condenser which I don't want to do (A/C works). Removing the radiator is easy, and will be necessary to get an impact wrench in there, but the condenser can stay put for that (drill & bit is much longer than impact wrench), which is why I'm trying to muscle it off with the breaker bar first... That, plus I don't own a compressor and an impact gun; which may change soon if this thing pisses me off any more. The good news is that I didn't need to buy that MT flywheel lock tool. A piece of stout angle iron wedged into the flywheel gear teeth, locked against the bell housing & garage floor is holding the flywheel put just fine One other thing to add... So far I've tried to crack loose the pulley bolt with nothing other than a soaking of PB blaster penetrating lube with no luck. How hot would I need to get that bolt with a torch to loosen up whatever thread locking compound is in there, and would a regular propane blowtorch be sufficient heat? Last edited by Pete_89T2; 06-30-2014 at 04:37 PM.