Maximum boost thread (93 oct > pump petrol/gasoline only!)

[TitaniumTT]

This should be entertaining
What are you running for ignition?

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

This should be entertaining

Posts #7 through #9 would be the kind of thing I'd hope people would use as some kind of back up to legitimize their claims of boost or power and matching PERFORMANCE but this is the internet and in rotary world (unlike on 6speed.com forum) cunts all over the webz/internetz seem to broke to even afford a few hundred dollar VBOX based GPS instrument that would dispel any doubters

Some pics of you (your name, where you are from) and your car (type, weight etc) and some kind of proof of it running for longer than one dyno pull or one track day..... would be nice to anyone wanting to post up in this thread

For any young players feel free to send my your VBOX files and I can verify your cars performance claims

p.s. my current boost setting is 35psi

[RICE RACING]

Image Shack eats balls! hope this works now.

Conditions at start of test, 18 deg C Ambient


Mid range boost 33.2 psi Blitz boost SBC I-Color


90kmh to 140kmh 3rd gear test std power band test, very quick.


100kmh to 169kmh = 3.71 seconds short test

[RICE RACING]

PSI or JZN otherwise known as Green Brothers in New Zealand not shy to post his copy of my water injection ideas here > LOL > http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=974884

Shame he got all shy and can't be fucked updating the thread here since I know who he is

[PSI]

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

PSI or JZN otherwise known as Green Brothers in New Zealand not shy to post his copy of my water injection ideas here > LOL > http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=974884

Shame he got all shy and can't be fucked updating the thread here since I know who he is

This is a common mistake for newbies thinking they can run water injection without a CDI ignition system, I read about how you dented your rotor, and make more power by reducing water, the problem you have is you are letting the motor dictate to you how to run due to the lack of ignition power and not you dictating to the motor how it will run safely.

The splitting of your water tank is another common newbie mistake, if you pay close attention to my WI thread (which I know you have!) you will see the detailed construction of my water tank, it is CNC folded and has not welded seems at all in its construction the end caps are folded over and lap welded. This is the only thing that lasts long term in the pressure ranges we run, also you need to use very thick plate, not light shit most cunts use.

I STRONGLY recommend you switch over to WM50, it is vastly superior to running just plain water, again you can experiment yourself on this but I will safe you allot of time and more broken engine parts

The water jet you think you have copied from me is nothing like what I run you will need to work out your quantities for yourself.

The mac valve will work with WM50 not a problem, I know I have been using it for a lot of years with my customers and myself in my own car for the last 2 years.

You are really wasting your time bouncing off ideas on rx7club, they are just a bunch of useless cunts over there with not one idea of much at all.

Feel free to come good on who you really are and feel free to share information here, I am willing to help anyone who is up front and not too scared to hide behind the internet

Best Regards.

I don’t mind if you know who I am. I’d actually forgotten about this thread.

To set the record straight, I did not copy you. I got the idea and basic design from a friend and rotary pioneer in NZ (RIP) who ran water injection in his 13B turbo powered 626 back in the early 80’s. His set up sucked through a sidedraft Weber and he used boost operated pre-carb (pre-turbo) water injection to allow more boost with the hi compression rotors of the day. His water injection idea came from WWII fighters as he was an avid aircraft enthusiast and pilot, even becoming friends with an ex Luftwaffe Me109 pilot on one of his trips abroad (he was sent to Germany and other places by the NZ Govt to look at alternative engine technology during the oil crisis of the 70’s).

Other than the info from my friend, I have read about Pratt & Whitney’s work with water injection, and found some good info on Rx7club by Howard Coleman and a guy ‘rx72c’. I only became interested in water injection a year and a half ago because up until then most of my experience had been with n/a engines.

So I guess if you are accusing me of copying you, then everyone with pre-turbo water injection must have copied you right? Realistically, everyones pre-turbo setups are going to be very similar anyway as there are only two ways of going about it – boost operated or elec pump. I went with what I think to be the simplest and potentially most reliable set up. It is also the cheapest setup as I’m on a tight budget.

[PSI]

lol settle down dude, there's more than one way to skin a cat...

It seems boost went higher than I thought - 233kpa or 33.79psi
I do know that the engine will not missfire until AFR's get down to the high 9's at this boost level. The current Series 5 engine has done over 150 dyno pulls thankyou, starting with a 60mm turbo and upgrading to a 75mm.

I am running a Link ECU, microtech x4 igniter and ice inductive coilpacks. oh and NGK race plugs and magnecor wires. I have not checked water flow at this boost level but I'm guessing 800-900cc per min.

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by PSI

lol settle down dude, there's more than one way to skin a cat...

It seems boost went higher than I thought - 233kpa or 33.79psi
I do know that the engine will not missfire until AFR's get down to the high 9's at this boost level. The current Series 5 engine has done over 150 dyno pulls thankyou, starting with a 60mm turbo and upgrading to a 75mm.

I am running a Link ECU, microtech x4 igniter and ice inductive coilpacks. oh and NGK race plugs and magnecor wires. I have not checked water flow at this boost level but I'm guessing 800-900cc per min.

You have allot of fucked up values in that ECU stat screen, why is that?
Show me a log of the car pulling 3rd and 4th gear, what is it fitted too? how fast is it? What map sensor do you have fitted to the car? have you actually calibrated it to the internal BAP sensor?

I'd like some more details

Where are you from? what is your name? show us your set up too would be nice

[PSI]

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

You have allot of fucked up values in that ECU stat screen, why is that?
Show me a log of the car pulling 3rd and 4th gear, what is it fitted too? how fast is it? What map sensor do you have fitted to the car? have you actually calibrated it to the internal BAP sensor?

I'd like some more details

Where are you from? what is your name? show us your set up too would be nice

Max INJ - I can't explain and have never seen it logged that high
Max ECT - went that high due to air lock
Max IAT - pins broke off sensor and were intermittently touching engine
ECU temp - ECU is mounted on top of trans tunnel

I am using the internal 4 bar map sensor and it has been calibrated.

Vehicle is a 323 with a basically stock Series 5 engine and intake. It weighs 1049.5kg on the track scales and has done a 9.11 at 149.9mph at 215kpa boost. The car is street legal and runs a full exhaust and all the seats etc and is still on leaf springs.

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by PSI

Max INJ - I can't explain and have never seen it logged that high
Max ECT - went that high due to air lock
Max IAT - pins broke off sensor and were intermittently touching engine
ECU temp - ECU is mounted on top of trans tunnel

I am using the internal 4 bar map sensor and it has been calibrated.

Vehicle is a 323 with a basically stock Series 5 engine and intake. It weighs 1049.5kg on the track scales and has done a 9.11 at 149.9mph at 215kpa boost. The car is street legal and runs a full exhaust and all the seats etc and is still on leaf springs.

So you are Green Brothers? or affiliated with them???

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

So you are Green Brothers? or affiliated with them???

Did you not want us to know who you are? don't be shy.

Please list your set up so others can learn from you, that is mostly what this forum is about.

[TitaniumTT]

My M820 will log speed, that's all you want to see right? Time and speed. You'll have to do the conversion from mph to that silly thing you see

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

My M820 will log speed, that's all you want to see right? Time and speed. You'll have to do the conversion from mph to that silly thing you see

As you can see in the Motec thread on the M170 (latest ECU fitted to a superbike) wheel speeds are totally wrong compared to even a ghetto GPS velocity trace (as per the Motec garmin ghetto facility logged on the ECU at the same time).

But at absolute MINIMUM I would like to see some kind of velocity trace, YES. If its based off wheel speeds then you are always going off a wrong trace then overlaid on top of that is the honesty of the calibration to make the speed reading right + the wheel slip factor added on top.

To measure velocity CORRECTLY to determine honest speed you really need a GPS signal, top shelf stuff is around 100Hz Ghetto like Motec is around 5Hz lol, either way its 1 million times better than a wheel speed trace

Consider your self edumecated LOL

p.s. To validate ANY claims of speed to distance I also want to see the hieght and slope of where you run, again any decent GPS instrument will allow this, most ECU hack boxes will not , run down hill = much much faster , most people cheat themselves LOL

[RICE RACING]

In all seriousness, PSI welcome, let us know who you are and what your set up is.

It sounds like its NZ or Australian to me, as no one I know would run a Microwreck product lol especially combined with a Link ECU haha.

If its a drag car link us some specs, times weight etc

p.s. I tuned a car with Microwreck ignitor with ICE boosters in 2004 with Water Injection and low AFR, it just always fouled plugs (racing ones). Given the Links ability to blow up engines when running CDI's if you use any of the limiting functions then this combo is probably not a bad thing anyway

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

My M820 will log speed, that's all you want to see right? Time and speed. You'll have to do the conversion from mph to that silly thing you see

Even in a near 700bhp car like mine with race tires on the back and true calibrated wheel speed sensors to the VBOX under acceleration you either have (under speed) on front wheels *due to them not being in full contact with the ground* even in 3rd gear! OR you have over rotation or wheel slip in the order of 4% or more @ 100mph. So you NEVER ever get a true velocity trace using wheel speed sensors.

This is why F1 cars run pitot tubes and also GPS speed traces to get true velocities.

I should post up a graph of time and velocity to REAL time and velocity off an ECU log v's a VBOX GPS log, in a short test like a 90-140kmh 3rd gear power band test you can have differences of up to 0.2 seconds (faster on ECU log v's a real log with a true speed trace that is accurate).

Velocity is NOT easy to measure, you need lab not LEB grade equipment to do so. Only company that does this properly is Race Logic and the top end gear VB3i is like 20k+ *fully kitted out* lol (I know I have it).

[Kwerks]

This is my favorite thread! <3