Maximum boost thread (93 oct > pump petrol/gasoline only!)

[TitaniumTT]

This should be entertaining
What are you running for ignition?

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

This should be entertaining

Posts #7 through #9 would be the kind of thing I'd hope people would use as some kind of back up to legitimize their claims of boost or power and matching PERFORMANCE but this is the internet and in rotary world (unlike on 6speed.com forum) cunts all over the webz/internetz seem to broke to even afford a few hundred dollar VBOX based GPS instrument that would dispel any doubters

Some pics of you (your name, where you are from) and your car (type, weight etc) and some kind of proof of it running for longer than one dyno pull or one track day..... would be nice to anyone wanting to post up in this thread

For any young players feel free to send my your VBOX files and I can verify your cars performance claims

p.s. my current boost setting is 35psi

[RICE RACING]

Image Shack eats balls! hope this works now.

Conditions at start of test, 18 deg C Ambient


Mid range boost 33.2 psi Blitz boost SBC I-Color


90kmh to 140kmh 3rd gear test std power band test, very quick.


100kmh to 169kmh = 3.71 seconds short test

[RICE RACING]

PSI or JZN otherwise known as Green Brothers in New Zealand not shy to post his copy of my water injection ideas here > LOL > http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=974884

Shame he got all shy and can't be fucked updating the thread here since I know who he is

[PSI]

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

PSI or JZN otherwise known as Green Brothers in New Zealand not shy to post his copy of my water injection ideas here > LOL > http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=974884

Shame he got all shy and can't be fucked updating the thread here since I know who he is

This is a common mistake for newbies thinking they can run water injection without a CDI ignition system, I read about how you dented your rotor, and make more power by reducing water, the problem you have is you are letting the motor dictate to you how to run due to the lack of ignition power and not you dictating to the motor how it will run safely.

The splitting of your water tank is another common newbie mistake, if you pay close attention to my WI thread (which I know you have!) you will see the detailed construction of my water tank, it is CNC folded and has not welded seems at all in its construction the end caps are folded over and lap welded. This is the only thing that lasts long term in the pressure ranges we run, also you need to use very thick plate, not light shit most cunts use.

I STRONGLY recommend you switch over to WM50, it is vastly superior to running just plain water, again you can experiment yourself on this but I will safe you allot of time and more broken engine parts

The water jet you think you have copied from me is nothing like what I run you will need to work out your quantities for yourself.

The mac valve will work with WM50 not a problem, I know I have been using it for a lot of years with my customers and myself in my own car for the last 2 years.

You are really wasting your time bouncing off ideas on rx7club, they are just a bunch of useless cunts over there with not one idea of much at all.

Feel free to come good on who you really are and feel free to share information here, I am willing to help anyone who is up front and not too scared to hide behind the internet

Best Regards.

I don’t mind if you know who I am. I’d actually forgotten about this thread.

To set the record straight, I did not copy you. I got the idea and basic design from a friend and rotary pioneer in NZ (RIP) who ran water injection in his 13B turbo powered 626 back in the early 80’s. His set up sucked through a sidedraft Weber and he used boost operated pre-carb (pre-turbo) water injection to allow more boost with the hi compression rotors of the day. His water injection idea came from WWII fighters as he was an avid aircraft enthusiast and pilot, even becoming friends with an ex Luftwaffe Me109 pilot on one of his trips abroad (he was sent to Germany and other places by the NZ Govt to look at alternative engine technology during the oil crisis of the 70’s).

Other than the info from my friend, I have read about Pratt & Whitney’s work with water injection, and found some good info on Rx7club by Howard Coleman and a guy ‘rx72c’. I only became interested in water injection a year and a half ago because up until then most of my experience had been with n/a engines.

So I guess if you are accusing me of copying you, then everyone with pre-turbo water injection must have copied you right? Realistically, everyones pre-turbo setups are going to be very similar anyway as there are only two ways of going about it – boost operated or elec pump. I went with what I think to be the simplest and potentially most reliable set up. It is also the cheapest setup as I’m on a tight budget.

[RICE RACING]

LOL @ the nice story, more fiction than fact ^
Both of your "readers" off the scum site regurgitate my redundant information and generally what I have been doing for decades so by your own admission you have copied me that's o.k. you are not the first and for sure will not be the last

Free bump to this thread.

[Slides]

Thought you might have entered WTAC this year with the car running well?

Quick question, IIRC yuo were running your solenoid at something like 2000hz (much faster than the response speed of the solenoid which is ~6.5ms?? anyway) so in effect you are using it (floating partial open) like an analogue valve rather than cycling on/off to achieve your mapped flow. Do you use a flyback diode over teh solenoid, and how linear to DC% is the flow rate curve (at any fixed feed pressure)?

You still happy with the dynatek CDI box/coils?