TitaniumTT's I hope I make it to DGRR '09 Build

[Whizbang]

longest thread on the site?

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by EJayCe996

So the issue went from big to small eh. Its always the small shit in the end.... Kinda like my car not running still because I don't want to drive out to Mazda Heaven just to cut the lower frame rail out of the passenger side of one of their junkyard FCs for the subframe studs. (I'm forcing myself to this weekend since my barber is ALMOST on that side of town)

Yup. pretty much. Just worked my way backwards in terms of the fuel system. There is literally NOTHING that hasn't been replaced or cleaned at this point. Not to mention that I'm still using my buddies borrowed tank. Over the winter I need to buy a new S5 tank and straps. I've got an S5 cartridge that I'll modify for my -6 lines. I need to make a list and start a new thread after she goes into hibernation - TitaniumTT's see you @ DGRRX

Originally Posted by Gravity Fed

longest thread on the site?

I think it is. Is there anyway to check without going into each and every individual subforum? Right now this thread stands at 623 replies and 10,192 views....... damn

[Force13b]

I has found you Brian get ready for rapeshower!

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Force13b

I has found you Brian get ready for rapeshower!

Good to see ya Tyler, car look awesome btw

Cum to DGRRX damnit

[Force13b]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Good to see ya Tyler, car look awesome btw

Cum to DGRRX damnit

I want to have to figure out dates but we'll see what i can put together.

[Whizbang]

they have the site statistics set so we can freely view it.

[FC3S Murray]

Funny thing about the wiring Brian. I actually had an issue with bad mid-range hesitations back when I wired my pump hot striaght to the battery and a toggle switch(still have it AND I KNOW, BIG TIME SAFETY ISSUE IF IN A ROLL OVER, need to wire to main relay). Anyway, I was in a hurry when installing it back 3 years ago and ended up using a small 1' section of 14 gauge to connect from the battery "hot" 10 gauge to the pumps power lead. Went and slightly moved the pump wires when the FC was running and the damn thing was hot as hell and caused a big drop in fuel pressure every time i wiggled it.

Replaced with all 10 gauge wire and problem fixed. I really need to get that wiring relayed, worries me that I am setting my self up for death if God forbid an accident happens.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Force13b

I want to have to figure out dates but we'll see what i can put together.

We'll be able to run a rape shower train this year if you show up...... of course we need Chris to show up again. I know Bawb is coming and I'm sure he'll be bringing the homebrew mead again. Oh the fun we can have

Originally Posted by FC3S Murray

Funny thing about the wiring Brian. I actually had an issue with bad mid-range hesitations back when I wired my pump hot striaght to the battery and a toggle switch(still have it AND I KNOW, BIG TIME SAFETY ISSUE IF IN A ROLL OVER, need to wire to main relay). Anyway, I was in a hurry when installing it back 3 years ago and ended up using a small 1' section of 14 gauge to connect from the battery "hot" 10 gauge to the pumps power lead. Went and slightly moved the pump wires when the FC was running and the damn thing was hot as hell and caused a big drop in fuel pressure every time i wiggled it.

Replaced with all 10 gauge wire and problem fixed. I really need to get that wiring relayed, worries me that I am setting my self up for death if God forbid an accident happens.

That's kinda frightening a little, althoug the way you have it wired, it really doesn't matter right? In the Motec I have it set to shut the relay down 2 seconds after the engine dies. If you turn the key it will instantly fall off off. Sean, if I'm reading this right, you toggle the switch everytime you start and stop the car?

[FC3S Murray]

Yeah I toggle it. I had it like that originally to prevent flooding with the OEM ECU and injectors.

[TitaniumTT]

Gotcha. I actually have a 3 position toggle switch set up on mine as well. On - controlled by the Motec, Off - so I can depressureize it if need be, and On - connected to grnd so I can prime the fuel system, check for leaks. I think what I'm going to do over the winter is either move it to the the rear hatch area where it can't be messed with, or put one of those Air Craft stle safety switch covers over it. I had a bad feeling about it tripping or a passenger hitting it while driving.

Someone actually did that with the starter toggle that I had all set up back in the day. Engaged the starter while on the highway - Hey, what's this switch do? Dumbass

[FC3S Murray]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Someone actually did that with the starter toggle that I had all set up back in the day. Engaged the starter while on the highway - Hey, what's this switch do? Dumbass

lol that had to sound great. Yeah tha toggle has come in handy to depressurize the system and leak checks too.

[Max777]

/\ Shit... my sister just messed up my dad's truck in a simmilar way... took all the teeth off the flywheel and the starter... guess who has to fix the damn thing now?

I'm glad you finally got the car sorted, more or less. It's amazing, but even with a build like this, people still run into irratating snags along the way, like how I'm doing right now with my build!

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by FC3S Murray

lol that had to sound great. Yeah tha toggle has come in handy to depressurize the system and leak checks too.

yeah, I made some asshole comment like it sounds exactely like what his teeth would sound like crushing against a steel pipe if he ever did that again.

My MoTeC guy and I had an interesting conversation about the toggle when we were trying to troublshoot why the damn thing would never turn off when I first wired it. I tried to explain why I liked having it, to pressure check it, to prime it, to let the engine turn over for a few seconds without the pump going to get a little heat in the plugs etc etc etc. He had an answer for everything - cycle the key three times, input a negative value in the relay (although the output for the FP also activates the IGN as well so that wouldn't work) He had no easy solution to the depressurizing though. Over the winter I'm going to move the toggle to the rear of the car under an aircraft style saftey switch. Harder to get at, which isn't a bad thing. I'd hate to see the damn thing accidentaly flipped while driving. That could easily chip a seal or at worst pop an engine. Although Dave whitnesses a 13B race car pop a fuel pump fuse on the dyno at full boost. He described the noises it made, I cringed, he said they fixed the short and the thing fired right up and ran fine. No damage. Pretty much the story that sold me on the RA Super Seals.

Originally Posted by Max777

/\ Shit... my sister just messed up my dad's truck in a simmilar way... took all the teeth off the flywheel and the starter... guess who has to fix the damn thing now?

I'm glad you finally got the car sorted, more or less. It's amazing, but even with a build like this, people still run into irratating snags along the way, like how I'm doing right now with my build!

OUCH! How does that happen in a car with a key'ed ignition? Every time one of my dumbass brothers does something like that, I'm always the one that has to fix it as well...

The little things never seem to end. I still have a short list of things that I want to fix as well. Oh well. Projects like ours are never done. It's a fact that I've come to accept.

[Max777]

The IAC was busted... i told her to rev the engine cause it dies when it's cold on the truck. She cranked it, held the key in the start position, and THEN revved it.... which made on hell of a nice "crunch"!

[TitaniumTT]

Owie..... oh well

Alrighty Gents - I'm offto an impromtu dyno session. I'll have my camera and should have my laptop up and running this evening so I can finally hopefully, God willing, post some dyno charts and datalogs