Interior Door Panel Repair Thread

bbade · 07-02-2010, 02:24 PM

**Full-size pictures available by clicking on the thumbnails**

Repairing broken studs. Here is the culprit:
DSCF4040.jpg

You will need a nylon bushing (3/8" OD, 1/2" length, ID less than 9/32") found at your local hardware store.
OD - outer diameter
ID - inner diameter
You will also need some Plast-Aid, more about that in the next post.

Step 1: Drill the nylon bushing to 9/32" ID. This will fit nicely over the broken stud.
DSCF4041.jpg

Step 2: We want to cut two slits in the nylon bushing so that it will fit down on the stud around the four existing plastic reinforcement tabs as shown in the following picture.
DSCF4044.jpg
To do this use a dremel tool with cutoff wheel attached. Cut the slits to a depth of 1/4," this will leave 1/4" above the plastic reinforcement tabs and make it flush with the foam on the back of the door panel when finally mounted.
DSCF4043.jpg

Step 3: Enlarge the mounting hole for the stud in the door panel to 3/8" using a 3/8" drill bit.
DSCF4046.jpg

Instructions continued in the next post.

bbade · 07-02-2010, 02:31 PM

Step 4: Test fit the plastic piece to ensure proper fitment and alignment. Make sure that the nylon bushing is flush with the back of the door panel and make sure that the plastic piece lines up correctly.
DSCF4047.jpg
DSCF4048.jpg

Plast-Aid http://www.plast-aid.com/
Credit goes to 'nashman69g' on 7club for experimenting with this stuff, it is actually how I found it. Some great information and tips on using it can be found in this thread on 7club http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...plastic+repair.
DSCF4050.jpg

Step 5: Clean the nylon bushing and broken stud with acetone. Be cautious with the acetone as it can soften/melt the plastic if left to sit on the plastic. I put some acetone on a rag and wiped everything down, allow it to evaporate.

Step 6: Put some Plast-Aid on the inside of the nylon bushing and then press it down on the broken stud. Fill the nylon bushing with Plast-Aid, bringing it level with the top of the bushing. Liberally spread Plast-Aid around the bottom of the nylon bushing (the area with the slits) to bond it with the plastic reinforcement tabs. Avoid getting Plast-Aid on the outer area of the bushing that will go through the hole in the door panel so that you don't need to trim it down later.
DSCF4052.jpg
DSCF4053.jpg

Allow the Plast-Aid to set up, it should not take long at all. The stud should now be ready to drill and tap, I will post information on this step when I get to it, I may upgrade the fasteners in the process.

bbade · 07-03-2010, 01:34 PM

Cracked Stud Repair:

The majority of mounting studs on my passenger side interior plastic were cracked, so to prevent them from breaking completely I reinforced them with Plast-Aid. Hopefully this will prevent further cracking, if not I will have to go back in and repair them with a nylon bushing per my last post.

The procedure is simple, clean with acetone, and spread Plast-Aid over the crack and surrounding area. The first picture shows the crack highlighted with silver sharpie. The second picture shows the stud reinforced with Plast-Aid.
DSCF4054.jpg
DSCF4055.jpg

bbade · 07-03-2010, 01:50 PM

Door Panel Cleaning:

Fortunately the door panels were not too dirty, but I figured I would give them a good cleaning while they are out.

We will need:
Simple Green
Bucket
Sponge
Q-Tips
Vinyl Cleaner/Protectant

Step 1: Mix up a cleaning solution in your bucket using Simple Green and some water, dilute to your liking.
DSCF4064.jpg

Step 2: Clean the panel using the sponge, use the Q-Tips for tight areas.
DSCF4065.jpg

Step 3: Rinse the panel off well using a hose, then dry it off with a soft towel.
DSCF4067.jpg

Step 4: Use a vinyl cleaner/protectant on the door panel to finish everything off and ensure that it stays nice. I used this stuff from Meguiar's.
DSCF4087.jpg

While cleaning I noticed that the ventilation duct on the back of the door would not line up correctly. I took it off and drilled some new holes to hold it in place correctly. Not sure what size bit I used, just grab one large enough for the mounting screw to fit through.
DSCF4066.jpg

bbade · 07-04-2010, 01:05 PM

Passenger Door Handle Repair:

Now for the infamous door handle, mine was broken by an excited passenger last summer at a track day

. There are several documented fixes for this handle, but I didn't find one that quite fit my liking.

Step 1: Clean the break area. Trim back any overhanging foam tape. It is also a good idea to trim down the break so that the Plast-Aid can really penetrate and get a good bond. I didn't get a good picture of this step, but here is a picture of the break I am working with.
DSCF4057.jpg

Step 2: Attach the two broken handle pieces to the main plastic piece; there will be two screws on the upper portion and two screws on the lower portion of the handle. Once all the plastics are together, attach them to the door panel as though you were reassembling everything; there are 6 or 7 screws. I forgot to take a picture of this step, but y'all know what the door panel looks like assembled.

Step 3: Make sure all the plastic pieces are aligned satisfactorily. Then tape some aluminum foil around the back side of the break (looking at the door panel), this is to prevent Plast-Aid from leaking through. Mask off the area around the window switch hole and place a towel or rag over the door panel to serve as a drop cloth. You want to be very careful not to drip Plast-Aid on your door panel.
DSCF4070.jpg
DSCF4069.jpg

bbade · 07-04-2010, 01:16 PM

Step 4: Working through the window switch hole, use Plast-Aid to bond the two pieces of the handle together. There is no need to go overboard here, use just enough to securely hold the pieces together as this is just a small bond to get everything aligned correctly. Make sure to allow the Plast-Aid plenty of time to setup, I think I gave it a good 45 minutes or more to be safe.
DSCF4074.jpg
DSCF4075.jpg

Step 5: Disassemble the plastics; remove the main plastic piece from the door panel and the handle from the main plastic piece (the two handle pieces should now be a solid unit). Remember to treat the handle with care as it is only held by a small bond. You should be left with something like this.
DSCF4077.jpg

bbade · 07-04-2010, 01:23 PM

Step 6: We will be using a small piece of metal to reinforce the handle. I used a piece out of an old erector set as it is very strong yet still bendable.
DSCF4079.jpg

In the above picture the metal is already bent. We want to bend the metal in such a manner that it will conform to the inner contour of the handle and allow it to be attached to the main portion of the handle with a screw. When choosing and bending your metal remember to allow for the window switch, we want to make sure it will clear the metal when everything is assembled. Perhaps a picture will provide better explanation.
DSCF4080.jpg
DSCF4081.jpg

I used a basic pan head screw, 3/4" in length, but most any screw will do. You will want to drill a hole down into the handle and then thread the fastener gently by hand with a screw driver.

07-02-2010, 02:24 PM	#1
bbade Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Macungie, PA Posts: 163 Rep Power: 18	Broken Stud Repair Full-size pictures available by clicking on the thumbnails Repairing broken studs. Here is the culprit: DSCF4040.jpg You will need a nylon bushing (3/8" OD, 1/2" length, ID less than 9/32") found at your local hardware store. OD - outer diameter ID - inner diameter You will also need some Plast-Aid, more about that in the next post. Step 1: Drill the nylon bushing to 9/32" ID. This will fit nicely over the broken stud. DSCF4041.jpg Step 2: We want to cut two slits in the nylon bushing so that it will fit down on the stud around the four existing plastic reinforcement tabs as shown in the following picture. DSCF4044.jpg To do this use a dremel tool with cutoff wheel attached. Cut the slits to a depth of 1/4," this will leave 1/4" above the plastic reinforcement tabs and make it flush with the foam on the back of the door panel when finally mounted. DSCF4043.jpg Step 3: Enlarge the mounting hole for the stud in the door panel to 3/8" using a 3/8" drill bit. DSCF4046.jpg Instructions continued in the next post. __________________ Proud owner of a base 1993 Montego Blue FD. PFC, RB single tip, Koyo Radiator, KDR rebuilt motor, polished OEM front strut bar, FEED replica sideskirts, OEM 99 spec rear spoiler, SuperPro Bushings Many thanks to Dave at KDR for sparking my rotor addiction. Last edited by bbade; 07-02-2010 at 02:47 PM.

07-02-2010, 02:31 PM	#2
bbade Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Macungie, PA Posts: 163 Rep Power: 18	Broken Stud Repair Step 4: Test fit the plastic piece to ensure proper fitment and alignment. Make sure that the nylon bushing is flush with the back of the door panel and make sure that the plastic piece lines up correctly. DSCF4047.jpg DSCF4048.jpg Plast-Aid http://www.plast-aid.com/ Credit goes to 'nashman69g' on 7club for experimenting with this stuff, it is actually how I found it. Some great information and tips on using it can be found in this thread on 7club http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...plastic+repair. DSCF4050.jpg Step 5: Clean the nylon bushing and broken stud with acetone. Be cautious with the acetone as it can soften/melt the plastic if left to sit on the plastic. I put some acetone on a rag and wiped everything down, allow it to evaporate. Step 6: Put some Plast-Aid on the inside of the nylon bushing and then press it down on the broken stud. Fill the nylon bushing with Plast-Aid, bringing it level with the top of the bushing. Liberally spread Plast-Aid around the bottom of the nylon bushing (the area with the slits) to bond it with the plastic reinforcement tabs. Avoid getting Plast-Aid on the outer area of the bushing that will go through the hole in the door panel so that you don't need to trim it down later. DSCF4052.jpg DSCF4053.jpg Allow the Plast-Aid to set up, it should not take long at all. The stud should now be ready to drill and tap, I will post information on this step when I get to it, I may upgrade the fasteners in the process. __________________ Proud owner of a base 1993 Montego Blue FD. PFC, RB single tip, Koyo Radiator, KDR rebuilt motor, polished OEM front strut bar, FEED replica sideskirts, OEM 99 spec rear spoiler, SuperPro Bushings Many thanks to Dave at KDR for sparking my rotor addiction. Last edited by bbade; 07-02-2010 at 02:52 PM.

07-03-2010, 01:34 PM	#3
bbade Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Macungie, PA Posts: 163 Rep Power: 18	Cracked Stud Repair Cracked Stud Repair: The majority of mounting studs on my passenger side interior plastic were cracked, so to prevent them from breaking completely I reinforced them with Plast-Aid. Hopefully this will prevent further cracking, if not I will have to go back in and repair them with a nylon bushing per my last post. The procedure is simple, clean with acetone, and spread Plast-Aid over the crack and surrounding area. The first picture shows the crack highlighted with silver sharpie. The second picture shows the stud reinforced with Plast-Aid. DSCF4054.jpg DSCF4055.jpg __________________ Proud owner of a base 1993 Montego Blue FD. PFC, RB single tip, Koyo Radiator, KDR rebuilt motor, polished OEM front strut bar, FEED replica sideskirts, OEM 99 spec rear spoiler, SuperPro Bushings Many thanks to Dave at KDR for sparking my rotor addiction.

07-03-2010, 01:50 PM	#4
bbade Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Macungie, PA Posts: 163 Rep Power: 18	Door Panel Cleaning Door Panel Cleaning: Fortunately the door panels were not too dirty, but I figured I would give them a good cleaning while they are out. We will need: Simple Green Bucket Sponge Q-Tips Vinyl Cleaner/Protectant Step 1: Mix up a cleaning solution in your bucket using Simple Green and some water, dilute to your liking. DSCF4064.jpg Step 2: Clean the panel using the sponge, use the Q-Tips for tight areas. DSCF4065.jpg Step 3: Rinse the panel off well using a hose, then dry it off with a soft towel. DSCF4067.jpg Step 4: Use a vinyl cleaner/protectant on the door panel to finish everything off and ensure that it stays nice. I used this stuff from Meguiar's. DSCF4087.jpg While cleaning I noticed that the ventilation duct on the back of the door would not line up correctly. I took it off and drilled some new holes to hold it in place correctly. Not sure what size bit I used, just grab one large enough for the mounting screw to fit through. DSCF4066.jpg __________________ Proud owner of a base 1993 Montego Blue FD. PFC, RB single tip, Koyo Radiator, KDR rebuilt motor, polished OEM front strut bar, FEED replica sideskirts, OEM 99 spec rear spoiler, SuperPro Bushings Many thanks to Dave at KDR for sparking my rotor addiction. Last edited by bbade; 07-04-2010 at 12:50 PM.

07-04-2010, 01:05 PM	#5
bbade Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Macungie, PA Posts: 163 Rep Power: 18	Passenger Door Handle Repair Passenger Door Handle Repair: Now for the infamous door handle, mine was broken by an excited passenger last summer at a track day . There are several documented fixes for this handle, but I didn't find one that quite fit my liking. Step 1: Clean the break area. Trim back any overhanging foam tape. It is also a good idea to trim down the break so that the Plast-Aid can really penetrate and get a good bond. I didn't get a good picture of this step, but here is a picture of the break I am working with. DSCF4057.jpg Step 2: Attach the two broken handle pieces to the main plastic piece; there will be two screws on the upper portion and two screws on the lower portion of the handle. Once all the plastics are together, attach them to the door panel as though you were reassembling everything; there are 6 or 7 screws. I forgot to take a picture of this step, but y'all know what the door panel looks like assembled. Step 3: Make sure all the plastic pieces are aligned satisfactorily. Then tape some aluminum foil around the back side of the break (looking at the door panel), this is to prevent Plast-Aid from leaking through. Mask off the area around the window switch hole and place a towel or rag over the door panel to serve as a drop cloth. You want to be very careful not to drip Plast-Aid on your door panel. DSCF4070.jpg DSCF4069.jpg __________________ Proud owner of a base 1993 Montego Blue FD. PFC, RB single tip, Koyo Radiator, KDR rebuilt motor, polished OEM front strut bar, FEED replica sideskirts, OEM 99 spec rear spoiler, SuperPro Bushings Many thanks to Dave at KDR for sparking my rotor addiction.

07-04-2010, 01:16 PM	#6
bbade Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Macungie, PA Posts: 163 Rep Power: 18	Passenger Door Handle Repair Step 4: Working through the window switch hole, use Plast-Aid to bond the two pieces of the handle together. There is no need to go overboard here, use just enough to securely hold the pieces together as this is just a small bond to get everything aligned correctly. Make sure to allow the Plast-Aid plenty of time to setup, I think I gave it a good 45 minutes or more to be safe. DSCF4074.jpg DSCF4075.jpg Step 5: Disassemble the plastics; remove the main plastic piece from the door panel and the handle from the main plastic piece (the two handle pieces should now be a solid unit). Remember to treat the handle with care as it is only held by a small bond. You should be left with something like this. DSCF4077.jpg __________________ Proud owner of a base 1993 Montego Blue FD. PFC, RB single tip, Koyo Radiator, KDR rebuilt motor, polished OEM front strut bar, FEED replica sideskirts, OEM 99 spec rear spoiler, SuperPro Bushings Many thanks to Dave at KDR for sparking my rotor addiction.

07-04-2010, 01:23 PM	#7
bbade Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Macungie, PA Posts: 163 Rep Power: 18	Passenger Door Handle Repair Step 6: We will be using a small piece of metal to reinforce the handle. I used a piece out of an old erector set as it is very strong yet still bendable. DSCF4079.jpg In the above picture the metal is already bent. We want to bend the metal in such a manner that it will conform to the inner contour of the handle and allow it to be attached to the main portion of the handle with a screw. When choosing and bending your metal remember to allow for the window switch, we want to make sure it will clear the metal when everything is assembled. Perhaps a picture will provide better explanation. DSCF4080.jpg DSCF4081.jpg I used a basic pan head screw, 3/4" in length, but most any screw will do. You will want to drill a hole down into the handle and then thread the fastener gently by hand with a screw driver. __________________ Proud owner of a base 1993 Montego Blue FD. PFC, RB single tip, Koyo Radiator, KDR rebuilt motor, polished OEM front strut bar, FEED replica sideskirts, OEM 99 spec rear spoiler, SuperPro Bushings Many thanks to Dave at KDR for sparking my rotor addiction. Last edited by bbade; 07-04-2010 at 01:31 PM.