Advice on bodywork for an FC?

[classicauto]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Hey Joe, I've been using a Sharpe Titanium (yeah yeah yeah) for probably 7 years now. Not much experience with anything else out there, what are your feelings on that gun? I've got some repainting to do on the FC this winter, and I'm hoping to land a restoration job on an FB this winter as well.

Haven't personally used that gun, I've only sprayed one Sharpe before...a razor? IIRC? But worked nice. I'd say as long as its all sized properly fluid tip wise for the material, and you keep it good and clean it should do you well over the long term. Cleaning is really the key with keeping any gun spraying well, obviously.


Project86 - yes I do this professionally


As for spraying over cheap base coat with good clear - it can be done. Generally speaking, something like limco base (limco 4?) is *decent* product, but what makes a top end product isn't always just about material "quality". Limco paint line has alot of matches for factory colours, but they won't be as accurate as RM, Onyx or glasurit, they won't dry as fast, they may not cover as well etc etc etc. There's far more to a premium paint then simply durability - although durability is part of it. But in the case of a single paint job, often the cost savings can be worth it for a one timer or hobbyist. In a production shop setting you have to look at price vs. true cost so thats where premium lines really win out.

Make sure to verify via a tech line what products are recommend to top coat whatever you're spraying for colour. Alot of the time, most anything will do. But in some cases specialty clears may not be recommended over low end base, so be certain whatever you're combining *will* work.....according to the paint manufacturer.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by project86

NO shit right? I my Snap-On DA was around $250 if i remember correctly with my SEP discount with Snap-On. Im was and am still going to buy a SATAjet basecoat gun (1,4 tip) thats $700 just for one gun! Plus prep is one of the most expensive parts of the paint job and the most important part to the final outcome.

Also again! Tell me about it. I chose RM and Glasurit though (well thats waht i learned on and have available and its great stuff). It was about $350ish for my primer $600 for basecoat. I used DC5335 Glamour Clear for the whole car $250/gal. And i sprayed my CF hood with Glasurit 936-something or other and that shit is over $300/gal. This is not a cheap hobby how ever you look at it.

No shit, my old habit of hookers and blow was cheaper

Originally Posted by project86

I know im not Joe lol but like he said everyone has their own style. And you can adjust alot of things with just air pressure and how far or close you are while spraying. I dont see why there would be any problem with that gun as long as you can get it to atomize correctly. Brian judging buy the way your car looks and the fact that you've had no "formal" training?( or have you ) id say youre doing just fine.

Nope, non at all. Just an anal retentive bastard who wanted to paint his own car like 7 years ago, bought a gun and a book and made good friends with the supply house. They were really invaluable with thier little hints and tips and tricks. Like you said though, the prep work can make a huge difference on the outcome, and like I said, I'm an anal retentive bastard who has no issues working a panel to absolute perfection. Spraying took some practive, I think I painted my hood 4 times before I was happy with it. Literally. Just paid attention to what I did wrong and learned from it. My FC was my first paint job.

Originally Posted by project86

ClassicAuto: Do you paint professionally or is it just a hobby for you as well? You really seem to have a firm grasp on all this (not to sound like im like a paint god or anything). Its just nice to see someone else (Brian included) that really knows something about it and can help explain to people who dont know.

Joe is the shit, his car was fucking gorgeous when I say her at deals last year. My car looked like shit. Hadn't been compounded glazed or waxed in about 2-3 years. Getting close to that now, I think it's been 8 months or so

Originally Posted by project86

You would hate to have a bad solvent pop issue or fisheyes or bad adhering because of something like that.

Ain't that the truth............

Originally Posted by classicauto

Haven't personally used that gun, I've only sprayed one Sharpe before...a razor? IIRC? But worked nice. I'd say as long as its all sized properly fluid tip wise for the material, and you keep it good and clean it should do you well over the long term. Cleaning is really the key with keeping any gun spraying well, obviously.

Yup, With the exception of a few dings in the can she looks just like it did when I bought it. Had to rebuild it once in the last 7 years becuase of one seal that dried out. All in all I'm very happy with it, and if you tell me it's not a piece of junk, I'll keep on rolling with it. What I would love to try are those 3M cans that can be sprayed at any angle. I'd love to try those out.

Originally Posted by classicauto

Project86 - yes I do this professionally


As for spraying over cheap base coat with good clear - it can be done. Generally speaking, something like limco base (limco 4?) is *decent* product, but what makes a top end product isn't always just about material "quality". Limco paint line has alot of matches for factory colours, but they won't be as accurate as RM, Onyx or glasurit, they won't dry as fast, they may not cover as well etc etc etc. There's far more to a premium paint then simply durability - although durability is part of it. But in the case of a single paint job, often the cost savings can be worth it for a one timer or hobbyist. In a production shop setting you have to look at price vs. true cost so thats where premium lines really win out.

Make sure to verify via a tech line what products are recommend to top coat whatever you're spraying for colour. Alot of the time, most anything will do. But in some cases specialty clears may not be recommended over low end base, so be certain whatever you're combining *will* work.....according to the paint manufacturer.

Again, ain't those few points the truth.