Burning coolant at startup.

Kentetsu · 10-22-2010, 01:48 AM

@ Jeff20b- For the record I DO NOT recommend block sealant. That's like using a sledge hammer when a scalpel will do the job.

When I installed a low mileage 12a a couple of years ago, only to find it was pumping the coolant straight out of the exhaust system, I did a lot of research into what was commonly used (block sealants) and came up with my own method.

What I found is actually a radiator sealant which is based on aluminum particles. No nasty crap or chunks of shit, and no buildup that I've seen in the radiator or coolant lines. I have not torn the motor down though, because it turns out that I didn't have to.

Also, there's no need to clean out the system, flush it, or anything like that (which the block sealant method calls for). I just added it straight to the radiator, topped it off with some water/antifreeze and let it idle. After it did it's stuff, I let it cool down and topped her off again and that was it.

The shit completely resolved the issue within a half hour of idling in the driveway. Since then, I've got over 20,000 miles on that motor and she's still going strong. That includes two trips to Deals Gap (from Michigan), racing on weekends, and driving her to work everyday that there isn't snow on the ground.

The stuff is called Alumaseal, and can be found at damn near any autoparts store for under $5.00

If you're worried about the potential for heartache when you rebuild it, then rebuild it now. But if you plan to run it into the ground anyway, or have a little faith that it won't fill your motor with crud, then spend the five bucks and give it a shot. As long as you aren't pumping exhaust gasses into the radiator (as in, the flow is going the wrong direction for anything like this to work), then it will do the job. My car is living proof.

.

FC Zach · 10-22-2010, 03:32 AM

Suzuki actually used a product very similar to what you're talking about Kentetsu. They added it directly to their rotary bikes right off the line. We use the exact same product you speak of to any RE5 we service at RotaryRecycle. The graphite consistency also serves as a lubricant for the waterpump shaft, but that's just a pro for the RE5. I understand there may be some cons but if it is used as directed then there shouldn't be any issue. The motors that are torn down and have what looks like Goop Slime in it are probably from previous owners who used the product in excess.

rx865 · 10-25-2010, 12:38 PM

Mine did that as well, didn't really notice it at first (the smell) but it kept getting harder to start and started bogging for the first little while then would run fine. Untill one day I went to move my car to mow the yard and I put it in reverse and started backing up and white smoke poured out of the exhaust and I smelt coolant. Then it wouldn't start. Kevin rebuilt mine about 4 thousand miles ago. Coolant seals were shot, my cat was full of coolant, and it was just in really bad shape.

10-22-2010, 01:48 AM	#1
Kentetsu RCC Contributor Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan Posts: 530 Rep Power: 18	@ Jeff20b- For the record I DO NOT recommend block sealant. That's like using a sledge hammer when a scalpel will do the job. When I installed a low mileage 12a a couple of years ago, only to find it was pumping the coolant straight out of the exhaust system, I did a lot of research into what was commonly used (block sealants) and came up with my own method. What I found is actually a radiator sealant which is based on aluminum particles. No nasty crap or chunks of shit, and no buildup that I've seen in the radiator or coolant lines. I have not torn the motor down though, because it turns out that I didn't have to. Also, there's no need to clean out the system, flush it, or anything like that (which the block sealant method calls for). I just added it straight to the radiator, topped it off with some water/antifreeze and let it idle. After it did it's stuff, I let it cool down and topped her off again and that was it. The shit completely resolved the issue within a half hour of idling in the driveway. Since then, I've got over 20,000 miles on that motor and she's still going strong. That includes two trips to Deals Gap (from Michigan), racing on weekends, and driving her to work everyday that there isn't snow on the ground. The stuff is called Alumaseal, and can be found at damn near any autoparts store for under $5.00 If you're worried about the potential for heartache when you rebuild it, then rebuild it now. But if you plan to run it into the ground anyway, or have a little faith that it won't fill your motor with crud, then spend the five bucks and give it a shot. As long as you aren't pumping exhaust gasses into the radiator (as in, the flow is going the wrong direction for anything like this to work), then it will do the job. My car is living proof. . __________________ "Learn from the past, or it will become your future...." '85 GS 12a + LSD/Sterling carb/Respeed coilovers/Respeed front swaybar/Respeed adj. rear spring perches/Illuminas/Bilsteins on rear AutoX vids @ http://www.youtube.com/user/Kentetsu1 Last edited by Kentetsu; 10-22-2010 at 01:55 AM.

10-22-2010, 03:32 AM	#2
FC Zach RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Eagleville, TN Posts: 2,267 Rep Power: 20	Suzuki actually used a product very similar to what you're talking about Kentetsu. They added it directly to their rotary bikes right off the line. We use the exact same product you speak of to any RE5 we service at RotaryRecycle. The graphite consistency also serves as a lubricant for the waterpump shaft, but that's just a pro for the RE5. I understand there may be some cons but if it is used as directed then there shouldn't be any issue. The motors that are torn down and have what looks like Goop Slime in it are probably from previous owners who used the product in excess. __________________ 1993 Yamaha GTS1000 1992 Celica Turbo AllTrac 1987 RX7 Sport 1979 Yamaha G1, KM24 powered 1975 Dolmar KMS4

10-25-2010, 12:38 PM	#3
rx865 DC Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Jefferson City TN Posts: 83 Rep Power: 16	Mine did that as well, didn't really notice it at first (the smell) but it kept getting harder to start and started bogging for the first little while then would run fine. Untill one day I went to move my car to mow the yard and I put it in reverse and started backing up and white smoke poured out of the exhaust and I smelt coolant. Then it wouldn't start. Kevin rebuilt mine about 4 thousand miles ago. Coolant seals were shot, my cat was full of coolant, and it was just in really bad shape.