Component tweeter installation locations on an FC

[TitaniumTT]

You didn't hear? I'm driving the Jeep

[JustJeff]

I considered making my "mold" out of cardboard so I could change the tweeter from firing across the dash. I wanted my tweeters directed at the seats rather than the dash. I liked how the pod accomplished exactly where I wanted the tweeter to be directed.

Pete-

I had zero experience when I started making subwoofer enclosures for underneath my vert rear deck. I got on some audio forums and saw some walkthroughs of how people had used spare tire areas as subwoofer enclosures. I used that as a basis for what I did.

I used the well from the transmission hump as my enclosure. I laid thick trashbags in the well and used tape on the underside of them to get them to fit the contour of the well. I used packing peanuts to measure the inner volume. I can explain how, but this whole sub box thing is already a little off topic. Getting back to the fiberglass.....I laid a couple layers of fiberglass. After a couple layers I then had a wooden rectangular frame for the top of the box to screw down onto. I laid that on the fiberglass covered trashbags with some cardboard to fill in the gaps between the frame and the bag. From there I put a few more coats of fiberglass on with some woven mats cut into strips. Pretty much I did like papermache and encapsulated the wooden frame into enclosure.

Once I had a strong enough "box" I could pull the whole thing out of the car so that I removed any risk of spilling liquid fiberglass and ruining the interior of the car. I sanded off the trash bag cause it was no longer needed. From there I added layers on the inside of the enclosure until it was strong enough. Cut the lid/top sink some screws through it into the wooden frame and waaa laaa a subbox that uses up previously unused space.

Point of all that is that using fiberglass is really pretty simple once you get started doing it. Like TTT explained about being safe with it and you're good to go. One thing I don't remember seeing in TTT post..which it very well might be there. Use a filter when you're using the resin. My family does alot of construction so I had access to double filter breathers for painting.

One thing I like about my idea of building a cardboard mold is that it's risk free. You're not running the risk of accidentally getting fiberglass on interior parts. If you fuck up the work all your out is a cardboard box you made. Once the enclosure is made you can cut and sand it down to create a flush mount up against the triangle mold as well as the door panel.

[EJayCe996]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

You didn't hear? I'm driving the Jeep

mebbe I have connects on that side of the world who will do me favors

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by EJayCe996

mebbe I have connects on that side of the world who will do me favors

mebbe I have two animals that weigh a combined 160lbs and have lots of teeth

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Pete-

I had zero experience when I started making subwoofer enclosures for underneath my vert rear deck. I got on some audio forums and saw some walkthroughs of how people had used spare tire areas as subwoofer enclosures. I used that as a basis for what I did.

I used the well from the transmission hump as my enclosure. I laid thick trashbags in the well and used tape on the underside of them to get them to fit the contour of the well. I used packing peanuts to measure the inner volume. I can explain how, but this whole sub box thing is already a little off topic. Getting back to the fiberglass.....I laid a couple layers of fiberglass. After a couple layers I then had a wooden rectangular frame for the top of the box to screw down onto. I laid that on the fiberglass covered trashbags with some cardboard to fill in the gaps between the frame and the bag. From there I put a few more coats of fiberglass on with some woven mats cut into strips. Pretty much I did like papermache and encapsulated the wooden frame into enclosure.

Once I had a strong enough "box" I could pull the whole thing out of the car so that I removed any risk of spilling liquid fiberglass and ruining the interior of the car. I sanded off the trash bag cause it was no longer needed. From there I added layers on the inside of the enclosure until it was strong enough. Cut the lid/top sink some screws through it into the wooden frame and waaa laaa a subbox that uses up previously unused space.

Point of all that is that using fiberglass is really pretty simple once you get started doing it. Like TTT explained about being safe with it and you're good to go. One thing I don't remember seeing in TTT post..which it very well might be there. Use a filter when you're using the resin. My family does alot of construction so I had access to double filter breathers for painting.

One thing I like about my idea of building a cardboard mold is that it's risk free. You're not running the risk of accidentally getting fiberglass on interior parts. If you fuck up the work all your out is a cardboard box you made. Once the enclosure is made you can cut and sand it down to create a flush mount up against the triangle mold as well as the door panel.

When you put that box on the fiberglass, was it a chemical bond as well when you did it? was the box wetted out first? How did the whole thing hold up? Have any pics? Sounds like a great idea for my 'vert build.... thanks for the idea!!

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

When you put that box on the fiberglass, was it a chemical bond as well when you did it? was the box wetted out first? How did the whole thing hold up? Have any pics? Sounds like a great idea for my 'vert build.... thanks for the idea!!

I did most all of the fiberglass work in a few days. It's been a few years since I did it so my recall isn't perfect. The fiberglass was still wet when I put the wooden frame on the top. I painted it just thick enough so it was hard enough to remove without altering the mold. I didn't bother sanding the plastic bag off till it was just about done. Most all of the layering was done when it was still tacky and semi wet. I was doing it in the summer so I'd do a few layers and set it in the sun to bake a little. Then come back and do more.

The biggest problem was getting an even coat all around it. Once I got the bag off the bottom I found weak points that I needed to build up. So in the end some of it was done semi-wet and the touching up was done once it was hardened. The areas I paid the most attention to was at the top where the frame met the contoured fiberglass. I really built up fiberglass up and over wooden frame from the inside and up over the rectangular frame. Then I sanded it down so that the top could make a good fit with the frame. I used a disturbing amount of caulk/sealant between the rectangular frame and the top to make sure there weren't any air leaks. I also cut an area of the fiberglass for a speaker terminal.

It turned out ugly but very very functional. I never had looks in mind when I was making it. It was all going to be hidden under the rear deck anyway so appearance wasn't even a factor for me. I never covered the top in vinyl, carpet or fabric.

One thing to keep in mind though. This is my second box I've made for that same location. I originally made a box for a JL 10" sub and it was a poor choice. JL subs..um..W3 and up are great subs but that was a poor location for them. You are limited with how much airspace you can give them. Also the pressure from the speaker was rattling all that flimsy molding where the top folds down.

Later I scored a Boston Pro 8"...after much looking. I specifically was looking for that one for it's reputation. I've always loved Boston Pro speakers and the 8" is well known for needing minimal volume for great sound. IIRC it only needs .5 cubic feet of volume in a sealed box. The tighter sound of an 8" sub works much better under the rear deck. That's all IMHO. I personally hate subs that rattle the car. I'd much rather hear a tight, accurate bass than try to peal the pavement with SPL and shitty unbalanced music that is so bass heavy the other sounds from the music are muted in comparison.

Getting back to the box. I've had zero issues with it since it was completed. I'll post up some pics of it tomorrow or over the weekend.

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

When you put that box on the fiberglass, was it a chemical bond as well when you did it? was the box wetted out first?

Just reread your post. It wasn't so much a box I molded the fiberglass around as literally a frame for a picture. I think I used something like 2x2 wood cut the length of the transmission well. I used only as thick of wood as I'd need to sink the screws from the top into.

It's been so long since I did it that I'm having trouble remembering the details. I'll get it out of the car over the weekend and I"m sure it will all come back to me.

[TitaniumTT]

[QUOTE=JustJeff;131578I was doing it in the summer so I'd do a few layers and set it in the sun to bake a little. Then come back and do more.[/quote]

Really? Do you remember what brand you were using? Most of the poly resin that I use, even the West System stuff will kick off in about an hour.

Originally Posted by JustJeff

The biggest problem was getting an even coat all around it. Once I got the bag off the bottom I found weak points that I needed to build up. So in the end some of it was done semi-wet and the touching up was done once it was hardened. The areas I paid the most attention to was at the top where the frame met the contoured fiberglass.

yeah, that would be the biggest concern for me too.

Originally Posted by JustJeff;131578I

One thing to keep in mind though. This is my second box I've made for that same location. I originally made a box for a JL 10" sub and it was a poor choice. JL subs..um..W3 and up are great subs but that was a poor location for them. You are limited with how much airspace you can give them. Also the pressure from the speaker was rattling all that flimsy molding where the top folds down.

Later I scored a Boston Pro 8"...after much looking. I specifically was looking for that one for it's reputation. I've always loved Boston Pro speakers and the 8" is well known for needing minimal volume for great sound. IIRC it only needs .5 cubic feet of volume in a sealed box. The tighter sound of an 8" sub works much better under the rear deck. That's all IMHO. I personally hate subs that rattle the car. I'd much rather hear a tight, accurate bass than try to peal the pavement with SPL and shitty unbalanced music that is so bass heavy the other sounds from the music are muted in comparison.

Getting back to the box. I've had zero issues with it since it was completed. I'll post up some pics of it tomorrow or over the weekend.

I love me some Boston Pro's, I've been thinking about swapping out my 10" shallow mount Alpine for a Boston.....

Originally Posted by JustJeff

Just reread your post. It wasn't so much a box I molded the fiberglass around as literally a frame for a picture. I think I used something like 2x2 wood cut the length of the transmission well. I used only as thick of wood as I'd need to sink the screws from the top into.

It's been so long since I did it that I'm having trouble remembering the details. I'll get it out of the car over the weekend and I"m sure it will all come back to me.

No need to take anything apart, although I do appreciate it, a few pics of the finished product will do just fine. Thanks again, I appreciate it.

[JustJeff]

Here's the pics I took while I was making it. As I remember it I built up the enclosure almost entirely from the inside. I didn't add much material to the outside of it. Too much material outside would have ruined the contour and fit. I only added outside what was needed to build up suspect areas. Also most of the building up between the frame and fiberglass was done underneath the frame.

One thing to note if you're going to do this is to use light coats. Gravity will have the liquid resin pooling at the bottom. That's the reason I laid it out in the sun between coats. I'm not sure if sunlight and heat sped up the curing process or not...in my mind it did anyway.

When I was making the dimension of the box match the volume of packing peanuts I had the long frame posts cut the length of the well and marked where to put the non-fixed end. Once it was in place I used the contoured cardboard for a temporary end. I taped that in place. Once I was able to pull the whole box out of the well I used a dremel to cut and sand the cardboard away as it was no longer needed.

Here's the pics of semi-finished box










If a mod feels the need to move the sub enclosure stuff to a new thread that would be understandable.

[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Really? Do you remember what brand you were using? Most of the poly resin that I use, even the West System stuff will kick off in about an hour.



yeah, that would be the biggest concern for me too.



I love me some Boston Pro's, I've been thinking about swapping out my 10" shallow mount Alpine for a Boston.....




No need to take anything apart, although I do appreciate it, a few pics of the finished product will do just fine. Thanks again, I appreciate it.

I've still got most of the resin I bought in storage. I'll be there tomorrow or sunday to do some engine rebuild stuff. I'll write down the brand and get back to you on that. It does start to setup quickly. IIRC between coats I was setting the enclosore in the sun no more than half hour or so at at time, then adding more.

The Boston Pro subs were/are amazing. Boston Acoustics has since changed the product line around. They are no longer making the Pro's..or at the least not putting the "Pro" label on them. Now they have a few product lines from entry level clear up to competition class rebuildable subs. I'm not sure where the "Pro" would fall in their new product line. I kinda got my system to where I wanted and stopped learning what was what.

The 8 is simply amazing. No one believes it an 8 till I show them. It hits like a 10 or 12. It doesn't get the low SPL levels of a 12, but it's much more clear and accurate. There is no muddy bass with it. If you can find one jump on it cause they are no longer made and have to be at least 4-5 years out of production.

And no worries, I didn't need to take anything apart..I found pics saved on my hard drive. But this thread is a great reminder. The sub has been sitting in my car which hasn't been driven in over a year. I need to get it out anyway and simply make sure it's still in good shape. My vert has the typical water leaks so I maintain where that water pools.

[JustJeff]

Brand of resin I used is United Chemicals & Plastics

[JustJeff]

Here's the tweeter pods I have in the car...I think they fit right in with the rest of the interior

[magus2222]

i have seen people use wood dowels (the really small kind) and all kinds of other things to get the tweeter where they want. once they have it where they want, reinforce the area so you can stretch fabric over the top. apply resin and a few layers of fiberglass. sand, mud, sand, paint, or flock if you wanna match the interior
but, i am by far NO expert, such repeating what i have seen over the years. i think the tweeter put on the triangle like you have it would look and sound good. maybe a bit bulky?

im used to this kind of stuff
where you would make it sit how you want. then wrap the entire a pillar, and do w/e you want to match the interior (i usually would use flocking)
again, no expert. not by a long shot, and i havent done anything like that in such a long time
Lloyd

[LunchboxCritter]

Do you mean like this?







I'm still working on them. You can find the writeup I've been doing here.

http://www.fiberglassforums.com/auto...preciated.html

[TitaniumTT]

Damn, nice job on those mounts! Would be pretty bitchin' for a gauge mount too.

Shit like that makes my pants tight. If done properly its totally functional and looks pretty damn near stock too.

[TitaniumTT]

Damn, nice job on those mounts! Would be pretty bitchin' for a gauge mount too.

Shit like that makes my pants tight. If done properly its totally functional and looks pretty damn near stock too.