How to remove/install fuel hardlines without removing subframe

need RX7 · 10-15-2010, 06:05 PM

I see no way to do this. There's no way to snake the lines through the space between the subframe and the body. Can I possibly unbolt the subframe and associated suspension pieces to drop it down a little bit without removing it completely?

NoDOHC · 10-15-2010, 08:42 PM

Yes, you can do that.

firzen · 10-15-2010, 10:59 PM

When I made my brake lines, I had a similar issue.

When I installed the line that goes from the brake prop. valve to the rear splitter, I found it easier to sneak the rear part through the space around the differential. It took about 10 minutes to worm it through properly but I still had the subframe bolted on when I pulled it off.

Hope that helps.

Pete_89T2 · 10-16-2010, 07:01 AM

Another possibility is to try Cunifer (sp?) brake lines. These are a DOT approved copper/nickle alloy line that is rather flexible to work with. With this stuff, you may be able find a way to snake them thru the tight spots. Here's a website for a shop that sells Cunifer lines, brake line hardware in general. Disclaimer that I've never used Cunifer yet or purchased from them, but the site is a pretty good reference:

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

PS - If you do end up using the Cunifer lines, please let us know how it went.

firzen · 10-16-2010, 09:49 PM

^ Pete, they're easier to work with than steel, SS or otherwise. I redid all my lines in Cunifer and there have been no problems so far.

misterstyx69 · 10-22-2010, 09:22 PM

I had to re-do my gas lines on the Project car,with a 25 foot roll of hardline..Alone.
What a freakin job.
But I did it..just before I sold the car!.someone else got the luxury of my Hard work!

rxspeed7 · 11-03-2010, 05:05 PM

If your replacing the lines just cut them out of there and run your new ones from the front to the back. with the alum fuel line they sell it is real malable and easy to manipulate. You just have to be very careful how many times you bend the alum line back and forth. After a couple times the alum anneals and becomes very hard and brittle.

Zack.

firzen · 11-06-2010, 01:01 AM

I certainly hope you don't mean aluminum for brake lines. The fact they become brittle like that is a reason why these things aren't suitable for brakes. Plus they don't have DOT approval so I'd like to know where you can buy them?

rxspeed7 · 11-06-2010, 09:31 AM

Never alum for fuel lines, the op was asking how to remove the fuel lines and replace them not the brakes lines.

Zack.

10-15-2010, 06:05 PM	#1
need RX7 Clean S4 Nutswinger Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sterling Heights, MI Posts: 485 Rep Power: 18	How to remove/install fuel hardlines without removing subframe I see no way to do this. There's no way to snake the lines through the space between the subframe and the body. Can I possibly unbolt the subframe and associated suspension pieces to drop it down a little bit without removing it completely? __________________ -Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress.

10-15-2010, 08:42 PM	#2
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	Yes, you can do that. __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

10-16-2010, 07:01 AM	#4
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD Posts: 874 Rep Power: 16	Another possibility is to try Cunifer (sp?) brake lines. These are a DOT approved copper/nickle alloy line that is rather flexible to work with. With this stuff, you may be able find a way to snake them thru the tight spots. Here's a website for a shop that sells Cunifer lines, brake line hardware in general. Disclaimer that I've never used Cunifer yet or purchased from them, but the site is a pretty good reference: http://www.fedhillusa.com/ PS - If you do end up using the Cunifer lines, please let us know how it went. Last edited by Pete_89T2; 10-16-2010 at 07:05 AM.

10-15-2010, 10:59 PM	#3
firzen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 231 Rep Power: 18	When I made my brake lines, I had a similar issue. When I installed the line that goes from the brake prop. valve to the rear splitter, I found it easier to sneak the rear part through the space around the differential. It took about 10 minutes to worm it through properly but I still had the subframe bolted on when I pulled it off. Hope that helps.

10-16-2010, 09:49 PM	#5
firzen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 231 Rep Power: 18	^ Pete, they're easier to work with than steel, SS or otherwise. I redid all my lines in Cunifer and there have been no problems so far.

10-22-2010, 09:22 PM	#6
misterstyx69 .drives like MrMagoo! Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Smiths Falls,Ontario Posts: 198 Rep Power: 18	I had to re-do my gas lines on the Project car,with a 25 foot roll of hardline..Alone. What a freakin job. But I did it..just before I sold the car!.someone else got the luxury of my Hard work!

11-03-2010, 05:05 PM	#7
rxspeed7 The fan hit the shit! Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: ocala,fl Posts: 152 Rep Power: 15	If your replacing the lines just cut them out of there and run your new ones from the front to the back. with the alum fuel line they sell it is real malable and easy to manipulate. You just have to be very careful how many times you bend the alum line back and forth. After a couple times the alum anneals and becomes very hard and brittle. Zack.

11-06-2010, 01:01 AM	#8
firzen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 231 Rep Power: 18	I certainly hope you don't mean aluminum for brake lines. The fact they become brittle like that is a reason why these things aren't suitable for brakes. Plus they don't have DOT approval so I'd like to know where you can buy them?