Why go to the trouble? ...........

ducktape · 02-13-2011, 03:43 AM

There are some ridiculous street cars being cranked out from the factory these days, to say nothing about shed-builds.

I built my street car to compete in the local 1/8th mile "street race" series at my local drag strip. The rules are pretty strict; Licensed and registered road-legal cars only, no trailer queens allowed. Full interior required, stock suspension mounting points, no tubs, no half-chassis.

I built a cherry bridge-port REW. It turned the rollers at 436whp at 1 bar... It was a solid high-10 second car that I literally drove to and from the track (and to work from time to time). The problem is it's just not enough to compete! When the competition shows up with 800hp and can pull the front wheels in a car with factory air-conditioning, air-bags, and a stereo you're just not in the same league.

And believe it or not, lack of adequate torque IS a problem when you're on the bleeding edge. I was able to cut some 60ft times that were close to some of the v8 cars, but you wouldn't believe how hard I had to push to get them. Coming off the line with hot 8.5" slicks, I had to set the two-step rev limiter at 7k and side step the clutch... Anything less, and the engine would bog and I'd lose time. Revving the nuts off the car from a dead-dig caused all sorts of problems. From destroying output shaft bearings and ruining driveshaft yokes, to driveline twist that actually managed to damage the internals. The v8 guys launch almost lazily in comparison.

The 13b is a wonderful platform. I have been building and driving 13b powered cars for 10 years and I have been consistently amazed by what it can do. I even agree that for *most* people, it's all the motor they'll ever need and is more than enough to get you a heap of trouble. But in a world where you can go to a GM dealership and buy a bog-standard Corvette ZR1 with almost 700hp and a warranty, the 20b makes perfect sense. Those few extra cubic inches can keep you competitive without having a motor wound tighter than a rubber band.

RICE RACING · 02-13-2011, 04:07 AM

I do accelerate harder than a ZR1 now and with a stock std 13B-REW

With a RX7 its power to weight and a slippery car. I can push my package much harder and know how much I have in reserve, thus why I was thinking this when I came home and though why do people think about a bigger motor? but I do understand your post and agree. The larger unit is less stressed. Probably allow you to catch a Bugatti too

RICE RACING · 02-13-2011, 05:22 AM

It's all in the boost

02-13-2011, 04:07 AM	#2
RICE RACING Don Mega Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Utopia Posts: 1,688 Rep Power: 18	I do accelerate harder than a ZR1 now and with a stock std 13B-REW With a RX7 its power to weight and a slippery car. I can push my package much harder and know how much I have in reserve, thus why I was thinking this when I came home and though why do people think about a bigger motor? but I do understand your post and agree. The larger unit is less stressed. Probably allow you to catch a Bugatti too __________________ www.riceracing.com.au Worlds best Apex Seals Coil on Plug Water Injection ECU Calibration

02-13-2011, 05:22 AM	#3
RICE RACING Don Mega Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Utopia Posts: 1,688 Rep Power: 18	It's all in the boost __________________ www.riceracing.com.au Worlds best Apex Seals Coil on Plug Water Injection ECU Calibration

02-13-2011, 03:43 AM	#1
ducktape Hardcore Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Louisville, Ky Posts: 88 Rep Power: 16	There are some ridiculous street cars being cranked out from the factory these days, to say nothing about shed-builds. I built my street car to compete in the local 1/8th mile "street race" series at my local drag strip. The rules are pretty strict; Licensed and registered road-legal cars only, no trailer queens allowed. Full interior required, stock suspension mounting points, no tubs, no half-chassis. I built a cherry bridge-port REW. It turned the rollers at 436whp at 1 bar... It was a solid high-10 second car that I literally drove to and from the track (and to work from time to time). The problem is it's just not enough to compete! When the competition shows up with 800hp and can pull the front wheels in a car with factory air-conditioning, air-bags, and a stereo you're just not in the same league. And believe it or not, lack of adequate torque IS a problem when you're on the bleeding edge. I was able to cut some 60ft times that were close to some of the v8 cars, but you wouldn't believe how hard I had to push to get them. Coming off the line with hot 8.5" slicks, I had to set the two-step rev limiter at 7k and side step the clutch... Anything less, and the engine would bog and I'd lose time. Revving the nuts off the car from a dead-dig caused all sorts of problems. From destroying output shaft bearings and ruining driveshaft yokes, to driveline twist that actually managed to damage the internals. The v8 guys launch almost lazily in comparison. The 13b is a wonderful platform. I have been building and driving 13b powered cars for 10 years and I have been consistently amazed by what it can do. I even agree that for most people, it's all the motor they'll ever need and is more than enough to get you a heap of trouble. But in a world where you can go to a GM dealership and buy a bog-standard Corvette ZR1 with almost 700hp and a warranty, the 20b makes perfect sense. Those few extra cubic inches can keep you competitive without having a motor wound tighter than a rubber band.